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Tunnel rammed small block chevy

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by gutshottt, Aug 5, 2012.

  1. Oooh-oh.
    That will not be good
     
  2. Jimmy2car
    Joined: Nov 26, 2003
    Posts: 1,707

    Jimmy2car
    Member
    from No. Cal

    Check the base timing. You may need something on the order of 24 degrees base, then limit the total to your 36-38. If it seems real rich to you when idling, it's because the fuel is still burning in the headers or manifold.
     
  3. poprockcrusher
    Joined: May 17, 2009
    Posts: 124

    poprockcrusher
    Member

    need some gears with that cam

    stumbles means LEAN !!!
     
  4. gutshottt
    Joined: Jun 2, 2006
    Posts: 60

    gutshottt
    Member
    from new york

    #1 spark plug loose*smacks self in the head*. 2.5" pv's in both carbs(I remember now,the motor was pulling about 6#'s and these were the closest to ideal without putting the plugs back in). Heading with micrometers to Home Depot to get .015-.018 wire(seems like half my car has been built with stuff from HD and Lowes).
     
  5. Xdrag48
    Joined: Mar 1, 2009
    Posts: 465

    Xdrag48
    Member

    Do you have another car you could put the carbs on one at a time and adjust them?Just a thought,Good luck with your project

    Steve
     
  6. gutshottt
    Joined: Jun 2, 2006
    Posts: 60

    gutshottt
    Member
    from new york

    Put wire in accelerator circuit. Helped a bit. .28 squirters helped as well. Less bog off line. Ordered 50 cc pumps and .31 pump nozzles. Still rich Timing is 36 degrees Gonna step on the acc circuit harder when I get the pumps
     
  7. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,341

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

    You could go to a .031 shooter without the 50cc pump, no problem. Use pink #330 pump cams, they will almost bottom the 30cc pumps, and very quick off the base circle. Try a larger wire in the IFR, you are heading in the right direction now. It is the INITIAL timing that will have an effect on the idle and tip-in response, NOT the total.
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2012
  8. prpmmp
    Joined: Dec 12, 2011
    Posts: 981

    prpmmp
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Hey!! According to Holley you don,t need 50 cc pumps till 37 or bigger squiters. 50cc give you a longer stream of fuel(more volume) where the size squirter give you more gas.I tried 50cc pumps,did not work for me,the cam on the pump came on to late. The pump should squirt as soon as you move the throttle. Pete
     
  9. gutshottt
    Joined: Jun 2, 2006
    Posts: 60

    gutshottt
    Member
    from new york

    Didnt have timing gun today,so rechecking timing was out. Took a lot of the off the line bog out with the changes I have made. Still pretty rich,def going to step on the IFR harder as that help ease the spray-truck like atmosphere. Already have the pumps on the way,if I need them I have them. If not sooner or later I'll be going with a big inch mouse(got to have a 454 under the hood,just don't want the weight) and would probably be getting into the territory where I'll need them. Meant idle circuit in above post
     
  10. KeithDyer
    Joined: Mar 26, 2007
    Posts: 193

    KeithDyer
    Member

    A motor will accelerate or pull under load while throwing out black smoke, used to see it all the time while driving toward AZ.

    The old station wagon pulling a trailer was smokin' big time while climbing in high altitude . . . . , was a pretty common sight.

    Also . . . , your low compression will not like the 114 lobe center as that lowers the dynamic compression also.

    The only reason the old Chevy factory camshafts would run so good was that they had some compression to work with.
     
  11. gutshottt
    Joined: Jun 2, 2006
    Posts: 60

    gutshottt
    Member
    from new york

    Actually the mill loved this cam. With the 750 double you couldnt keep the rear end from walking out on ya. But I needed the ram to make the look.
     
  12. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,341

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC


    Keith is dead on the money. A narrower LSA will work better in a low compression motor. It WILL be even harder to tune, and idle rougher, but it will make more power everywhere, ESPECIALLY mid range torque. A similar cam on a 108 LSA would probably pick up a solid 15-20 ft lbs from about 2500 up.
    The wider lsa cam will work better with more compression.
     
  13. gutshottt
    Joined: Jun 2, 2006
    Posts: 60

    gutshottt
    Member
    from new york

    Unfortunately being out of work and having little to no money precludes a new cam and with a sub 2300 lb car even with poor tuning has more power than it can use. Stocks in BFGoodrich have gone up because of me;). Tuning is coming along and since it does not appear that I'll need the 50 cc pumps,I'll spend that cash on a locking trans. dipstick,acc.pump cams and larger squirters . I was lucky to dig up this money. Still have enough put aside for registration,plates,insurance and 1 full tank of 93.
     
  14. gutshottt
    Joined: Jun 2, 2006
    Posts: 60

    gutshottt
    Member
    from new york

    pic of car
     

    Attached Files:

  15. Larry T
    Joined: Nov 24, 2004
    Posts: 7,675

    Larry T
    Member

    I think I see your problem now. Needs a 401! :D
     
  16. Get that mother on the road and dial it in later !
     
  17. gutshottt
    Joined: Jun 2, 2006
    Posts: 60

    gutshottt
    Member
    from new york

    Last edited: Aug 13, 2012
  18. gutshottt
    Joined: Jun 2, 2006
    Posts: 60

    gutshottt
    Member
    from new york

    Working on it. Need to get the idle prob fixed. Don't like to change oil everytime I take it out
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2012
  19. How is the fuel pressure? I had dual edlbrocks that were bleeding through because of too much fuel pressure, had to go to a regulator. Also on the idle, adjust the secondary open to bleed air in at idle, and pull your primaries off the transition circuit. should at leat clean the idle up somewhat.
     
  20. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 5,502

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    You must have really gutted that AMX to get below 2300 lbs.! That's lighter than my tiny little British Austin!
     
  21. gutshottt
    Joined: Jun 2, 2006
    Posts: 60

    gutshottt
    Member
    from new york

    Rough estimate only,but I will tell you that I wacked about a foot out of a Buick Regal frame and basically welded a floorless body to it. Half a sheet metal dash,no sound deadening,no carpet,no inner fenders and no Freakin Radio! Who needs a radio when you have a rumpity cammed and tunnel rammed small block with a 40" dual exhaust :)
     
  22. 76cam
    Joined: Sep 30, 2010
    Posts: 643

    76cam
    Member

    Also you might need smaller jets in the carbs. If you havent checked those yet. It will run rich and not adjust properly if the jets are to big... Look at the size you have and try the next size down. Hope this helps.
     
  23. gutshottt
    Joined: Jun 2, 2006
    Posts: 60

    gutshottt
    Member
    from new york

    got my 31 squirters and my 2nd set of pump cams. Also have the dial back in my tool box Ready for Sat. Lets see if I can get it closer
     
  24. Deuces
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 17,606

    Deuces
    Member
    from Michigan

    Use a vacuum gage to dial in the carbs... And also go down a step on the jetting too #64 or even #63's and also change too the heavier "black" springs in the secondary pods... The "Quick change" caps for those pods come in handy here... With those, you can tune the opening rate of the rear throttle blades.. I have a set with the vacuum line tubes for my sbf tunnel ram setup... Can't wait to try it!! ;)
     
  25. Deuces
    Joined: Nov 3, 2009
    Posts: 17,606

    Deuces
    Member
    from Michigan

    Ditto on the 401...
     
  26. prpmmp
    Joined: Dec 12, 2011
    Posts: 981

    prpmmp
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Just a thought! did it backfire thru the carbs at all? If you have older carbs without the backfire protection you could have damaged the powervalves and the are leaking fuel at idle,the jets do not dictate the idle circuit-the fuel air mixture screws set the fuel at idle.make sure your throttle blades are not to far open(try to get the idle screw just touching the linkage)turn the fuel idle screws in all the way if it stalls the powervalves are good if it keeps running you need new ones before you go any further. my fuel air mixture screws are 3/4 turn out or as mention before use a vac gauge for highest idle,adjust both screws the same.jets come it to play at speeds above 35 mph,your discharge nozzles make the transfer from idle circuit to main circuit(jets) you need to get the jets right first before changing the nozzles. as mention on other posts you do not have a street friendly cam so it will take some time to tune it. hope you can understand my descriptions! Pete
     
  27. gutshottt
    Joined: Jun 2, 2006
    Posts: 60

    gutshottt
    Member
    from new york

    Starting to tear it apart just about now. Fingers crossed. Updates throughout the day.
     
  28. gutshottt
    Joined: Jun 2, 2006
    Posts: 60

    gutshottt
    Member
    from new york

    Half together. Of course I've found another problem. Thermostat is leaking. My bad for not making sure to true up housing and block before installing.*sighs*
     
  29. gutshottt
    Joined: Jun 2, 2006
    Posts: 60

    gutshottt
    Member
    from new york

    Fired up. A lot better. Still some hesitation off line,but better. More pump cam maybe? Made a mistake before,jets in carb are 60's. More tuning after lunch
     
  30. gutshottt
    Joined: Jun 2, 2006
    Posts: 60

    gutshottt
    Member
    from new york

    More pump cam and stepping on idle circuit harder
     

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