The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by gutshottt, Aug 5, 2012.
That will not be good
Check the base timing. You may need something on the order of 24 degrees base, then limit the total to your 36-38. If it seems real rich to you when idling, it's because the fuel is still burning in the headers or manifold.
need some gears with that cam
stumbles means LEAN !!!
#1 spark plug loose*smacks self in the head*. 2.5" pv's in both carbs(I remember now,the motor was pulling about 6#'s and these were the closest to ideal without putting the plugs back in). Heading with micrometers to Home Depot to get .015-.018 wire(seems like half my car has been built with stuff from HD and Lowes).
Do you have another car you could put the carbs on one at a time and adjust them?Just a thought,Good luck with your project
Put wire in accelerator circuit. Helped a bit. .28 squirters helped as well. Less bog off line. Ordered 50 cc pumps and .31 pump nozzles. Still rich Timing is 36 degrees Gonna step on the acc circuit harder when I get the pumps
You could go to a .031 shooter without the 50cc pump, no problem. Use pink #330 pump cams, they will almost bottom the 30cc pumps, and very quick off the base circle. Try a larger wire in the IFR, you are heading in the right direction now. It is the INITIAL timing that will have an effect on the idle and tip-in response, NOT the total.
Hey!! According to Holley you don,t need 50 cc pumps till 37 or bigger squiters. 50cc give you a longer stream of fuel(more volume) where the size squirter give you more gas.I tried 50cc pumps,did not work for me,the cam on the pump came on to late. The pump should squirt as soon as you move the throttle. Pete
Didnt have timing gun today,so rechecking timing was out. Took a lot of the off the line bog out with the changes I have made. Still pretty rich,def going to step on the IFR harder as that help ease the spray-truck like atmosphere. Already have the pumps on the way,if I need them I have them. If not sooner or later I'll be going with a big inch mouse(got to have a 454 under the hood,just don't want the weight) and would probably be getting into the territory where I'll need them. Meant idle circuit in above post
A motor will accelerate or pull under load while throwing out black smoke, used to see it all the time while driving toward AZ.
The old station wagon pulling a trailer was smokin' big time while climbing in high altitude . . . . , was a pretty common sight.
Also . . . , your low compression will not like the 114 lobe center as that lowers the dynamic compression also.
The only reason the old Chevy factory camshafts would run so good was that they had some compression to work with.
Actually the mill loved this cam. With the 750 double you couldnt keep the rear end from walking out on ya. But I needed the ram to make the look.
Keith is dead on the money. A narrower LSA will work better in a low compression motor. It WILL be even harder to tune, and idle rougher, but it will make more power everywhere, ESPECIALLY mid range torque. A similar cam on a 108 LSA would probably pick up a solid 15-20 ft lbs from about 2500 up.
The wider lsa cam will work better with more compression.
Unfortunately being out of work and having little to no money precludes a new cam and with a sub 2300 lb car even with poor tuning has more power than it can use. Stocks in BFGoodrich have gone up because of me. Tuning is coming along and since it does not appear that I'll need the 50 cc pumps,I'll spend that cash on a locking trans. dipstick,acc.pump cams and larger squirters . I was lucky to dig up this money. Still have enough put aside for registration,plates,insurance and 1 full tank of 93.
pic of car
I think I see your problem now. Needs a 401!
Get that mother on the road and dial it in later !
With 750 double,1/4 throttle
Working on it. Need to get the idle prob fixed. Don't like to change oil everytime I take it out
How is the fuel pressure? I had dual edlbrocks that were bleeding through because of too much fuel pressure, had to go to a regulator. Also on the idle, adjust the secondary open to bleed air in at idle, and pull your primaries off the transition circuit. should at leat clean the idle up somewhat.
You must have really gutted that AMX to get below 2300 lbs.! That's lighter than my tiny little British Austin!
Rough estimate only,but I will tell you that I wacked about a foot out of a Buick Regal frame and basically welded a floorless body to it. Half a sheet metal dash,no sound deadening,no carpet,no inner fenders and no Freakin Radio! Who needs a radio when you have a rumpity cammed and tunnel rammed small block with a 40" dual exhaust
Also you might need smaller jets in the carbs. If you havent checked those yet. It will run rich and not adjust properly if the jets are to big... Look at the size you have and try the next size down. Hope this helps.
got my 31 squirters and my 2nd set of pump cams. Also have the dial back in my tool box Ready for Sat. Lets see if I can get it closer
Use a vacuum gage to dial in the carbs... And also go down a step on the jetting too #64 or even #63's and also change too the heavier "black" springs in the secondary pods... The "Quick change" caps for those pods come in handy here... With those, you can tune the opening rate of the rear throttle blades.. I have a set with the vacuum line tubes for my sbf tunnel ram setup... Can't wait to try it!!
Ditto on the 401...
Just a thought! did it backfire thru the carbs at all? If you have older carbs without the backfire protection you could have damaged the powervalves and the are leaking fuel at idle,the jets do not dictate the idle circuit-the fuel air mixture screws set the fuel at idle.make sure your throttle blades are not to far open(try to get the idle screw just touching the linkage)turn the fuel idle screws in all the way if it stalls the powervalves are good if it keeps running you need new ones before you go any further. my fuel air mixture screws are 3/4 turn out or as mention before use a vac gauge for highest idle,adjust both screws the same.jets come it to play at speeds above 35 mph,your discharge nozzles make the transfer from idle circuit to main circuit(jets) you need to get the jets right first before changing the nozzles. as mention on other posts you do not have a street friendly cam so it will take some time to tune it. hope you can understand my descriptions! Pete
Starting to tear it apart just about now. Fingers crossed. Updates throughout the day.
Half together. Of course I've found another problem. Thermostat is leaking. My bad for not making sure to true up housing and block before installing.*sighs*
Fired up. A lot better. Still some hesitation off line,but better. More pump cam maybe? Made a mistake before,jets in carb are 60's. More tuning after lunch
More pump cam and stepping on idle circuit harder
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