Hot Rods Trying to set lash the proper way on a SBC 350!

OK, The Elephant in the room is why did it break like it did? Defective part?, wrong setting the on first fire up? hydrolicked (sp) lifter? Is the rod bent?
And why are all the spark plugs "sooty"?

 

It is actually a solid push rod, trying to see if oreillys or napa have these in stock...here is a pic, but what do u all think caused this failure? The under side of the rocker arm seems salvageable, if i do a clean sanding of it...then i will put some assembly lube on. Pushrod looks to be 7 3/16 inches long...is that 7.3 inches, sorry...these measurements always messes with me. I will just take it to the auto parts store.

 

Why does it look like the broken one is longer?
If it is you could have destroyed that lifter......................

 

Yeah, i dont know why all the spark plugs are sooty...best i can figure out is that the engine has never really been able to run for a long distance, only idle in my garage...and popping through the exhaust wjen test driving, but i will address that after i get the rod and lash set. I really hope this fixes the popping at least, oh...and none of the rods are bent...not one, all roll on my table as they should...no flopping

 

Its not longer...i put them side by side, the one is just missing the round end. Its an illusion i guess, but they are all the same size

 

That's quite an illusion.

 

You made me do it...a better pic!

 

I would look real close as the pushrod pivots the rocker. Make sure the pushrod isn't binding as it gets too full lift. Dig that ball out of the arm and post a pic of that socket.

Sent from my Moto G Play using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Make sure you get a hardened pushrod for use with the guide plates...

 

Solid ?
It should be hollow,
All of them should be hollow. Oils pumps up the inside of them to oil the rockers.
If that socket in the rocker is scored up you need a new rocker, not sand paper. If you find any more solid ones you will have other related issues to sort out

 

Thanks...will do

 

Sorry...i meant solid "1 piece " push rod, not the rods that have metal balls welded on the end...it is hollow in the middle like you said!

 

You're about the 3rd person to tell him this now. It's about time for him to listen up. This is how to do it. The static setting is just to get you going, once it's running and warmed up, set them dynamically.

 

That means it snapped the end off.
It could be bad rocker geometry, or bad parts. Rocker hole too deep.

 

Ok, their is no ball stuck in the rocker arm...the push rods that are in the engine are 1 piece hollowed rods, their is no ball ends welded on (stock push rods as some say) these look to be hardened steel and i will be buying the same ones as these i pulled out!, i apologize if i am wrong...i just want to make sure that i am seeing this right, i see 2 different types of rods that can be purchased from Summit and Jegs, one looks like it has round metal balls welded on the ends (alot cheaper), the ones i have look smooth and sleek, as if its one piece (more pricey)...sorry for over analyzing...i just want to be sure. I like the geometry pic in the previous post and will try to get this setup correctly. I am listening and appreciate the help...everyone of you all. And i will set timing up as you described...as soon as i get these parts in hand, and yes...i will be buying a whole new set of rockers as well, i do not have money to spare, this is why i am trying to fix it all with help from friends and u folks, but i do want it to run right...thanks guy's

 

It's not the timing, it's how you set the valve lash dynamically, i.e. with the engine running. Several people have recommended this to you now, along with tools to prevent oil from running out of the top of the head while you do it.

 

Yes...i will do this, i cant right now, but once i install the new parts, i will do what you just said. I am anxious to see if this will help my exhaust popping...as it is the exhaust port that had the messed up rod

 

I would guess the number 1 exh. was overtightened at some time , to the point that the lifter plunger was bottomed out.
The top tip of the PUSHrod took the brunt of the punishment and galled itself to the rocker cup. At that point , it snapped off. It still looks like it's in there to me. That being the case, you're not using that rocker over again, as pictured.
With this scenario, I'd next be worried about what the bottom of the lifter looks like,..and the cam lobe.

 

You check the geometry before ordering pushrods.
The length of the pushrods is what changes the geometry.
http://www.stangtv.com/news/video-achieving-proper-rocker-arm-geometry-with-comp/
Check that out.
You can check your current set up and see if it's off.

 

Yes
[isn't there 2 firing orders for a Ford 302? a hypo firing order and a non hypo?[/QUOTE] If it was that Tight you better be Checking a Cam Lobe.............................

 

F O R D
Firing Order Really Different

 

Do you even know what Cam you have, make, part number, spec's?
The roller rockers maybe an overkill and an extra expense that you don't need?
Thanks for the geometry link 31vicky!

 

Awesome read and video...i feel like i can do this myself. The push rods that are in the engine now are 7 5/16 in...so who ever built this motor may have installed the wrong length? Some history on the build was that the motor was built from a speed shop in California (actually this is the original place where this truck was built). The hydraulic lifter that is under the damaged rocker still has spring in it as does the intake, should i replace the hydraulic lifters? Or replace rocker arms and pushrods ( after following geometry check) and go from there?

 

No idea what cam is in here...i even asked the previous owner, he said he doesnt know...i wish i did...so should i just buy plain rockers? I want reliability before raceability

 

How far do you want to take this? If you like working on it and doing it rite than I would pull the front off the motor, pull timing cover and check for a make and number on front face of cam. Hell you would even get to see the condition of timing chain & gears. If you still have energy left after that you would pull intake and check lifter condition. If Cam needs replaced it's an easy pull. I really don't think your bottom end is hurt, spend time & funds on the top end. Buying parts for an unknown Cam is risky.........................

 

Thanks brigrat, i dont mind doing the work...it will be a daily driver....

 

Serious question here. Not trying to be a smart ass. You're saying it's been it's been popping for a while .Throughout this time, you've been trying various techniques to set the valves.
If that PUSH rod was the culprit all along, how could you possibly have spun, or lifted, or wiggled it, and not noticed something wrong?

 

No worries, this is the first time i had ever opened up a valve cover and done work on my engine...i have never heard or understood how valve lash, hydraulic lifters, push rods and rocker arms even worked until owning this truck, i used to just add gas and oil...do filter changes on my many vehicles. Occasionally I'd do some transmission changes and chassis rebuilds, but never ever went into an engine block...ever. I have learned through trial and error with this truck and have enjoyed this build very much. I was just moving the push rod up and down and then twisting...never looked under the rocker arm, just followed videos and instructions. It make sense now as to why it was popping out the exhaust now...i just hope the lobe is ok...but i will get her fixed.

 

I think that at least, you ought to pull the intake. You'll probably see a certain level of debris or gray looking metal dust in the lifter valley.
Look at the bottom of the lifter and the cam lobe. Compare them to the one next to it. If it looks weird or funky on the bottom, you'll need to replace the cam.
Be prepared, if that's the case. If you're still a little confused, you'll really be confused after that thread!

 

Ok, so your saying pull the intake manifold off the block, inspect each rod and hydraulic lifter and see how each one is operating? Do i need to pull the hydraulic lifter out on exhaust cylinder#1 to see the cam shaft lobe?