Projects Toymaker's Twin Engine Dragster Build

Still love this build, going to be awesome!

 

I made a tonneau cover for my altered by the time the buck, mold,and cover were made it cost me way over $250 I did to reinforce the body

 

May not be right for you, but for others. For large alterations I have been buying sheet fiberglass from McMaster-Carr. Scuff the edge and 'glass it in. Just watch grades as some of their electrical stuff is high.

 

Those wheels are gonna look good on it!

 

Thanks Tim, I just couldn't bring myself to putting some steel wheels no it! Man it's cold out there, but the show must go on After a little thought of transfering the bolt pattern to a tempate I decided to use Set Screws put in the block backwards....

So after cutting out a piece of scrap aluminum, removing the dowels and positioning the set screws just above the block surface I positioned my template and placed a flat punch on the template over the set set screws and struck it with a hammer...........

The method worked great and although probably not perfectly centered this will get me to my next step of making a "Master Pattern" out of steel with holes deep enough to use a transfer punch.....


My camera batteries died so I'll post more soon.

 

Cool Roc, what are you going to use for frame rails, square or round?
love the wheels (course I'm sorta partial to 5 spokes) and the tires should light up easily.........

 

3x2 Rectangle Tube and I'm hoping to light em up in MAY

 

Not to sound wierd or anything but I had a dream about this car last night. No kidding!

Keep going! can't wait till May.

 

Awesome!

 

good dream I hope Tim...........

 

The chain drive won't work if he is running one engine CW and the other CCW

 

It was!

 

I found a piece of 3/8" steel plate today at work and cut the holes for the crankshafts. At first was planning on using this to make a pattern to use with a transfer punch with and then I tought I just need a "GIZMO" to hold the transfer punch centered an just use the aluminum template I made........

Clamped my first pattern to the 3/8 steel and proceeded to use the gizmo I made to transfer the pattern..........

Worked real well as I drilled all the holes 3/8" and all the bolts lined up....

Although heavy I'm going to use the 3/8 for know or forever and just trim it as necessary and lighten it with some holes
With the plate as strong as it is I decided to flip it over and get a look at it.......


I'm pretty happy and found the intake angle at 28 degrees if I'm reading it correctly.....

Now on to the front mount, cut the starter hole, thens it's time to get the engines ready for FIRE and chase it around on the floor

 

Ha ha looking very good....hey I am a part of this without even doing anything....cool.

 

That's the same way I made my engine plates Rocky...Made my own "transfer screws" out of threaded stock, just put the points on using a drill and the belt sander.

 

Whats the c/l to c/l of your carbs Roc............

 

Don't worry Skip I aint done with you yet

I'm with ya Tom, I was going to do the same but this saved me some time and I have a "Fire and Desire" to get these together

I'll get that for ya Carl, really dig the log adapter idea

 

Toymaker, when you go to assemble the RR motor, one thing you might want to put some extra thought into is the distributor. I bought a complete used Isky RR setup once but never used it. I also got the distributor an it seemed to have an excessive amount of free play. The cam lobe had eaten some of the top bushing and it seems to make sense that with everything going backwards, that the distributor shaft is being pulled down instead of up.

 

Thank's for the input, one of the great things about my camshaft purchase is the engine is reverse rotation, the cam is standard rotation being it uses a Gear To Gear Drive. This allows a stock design Distributor and Oil Pump.

 

The one I had was also. The distributor may turn the right direction but the way it's loaded by the backwards moving cam might change things?

 

I have not posted in this thread but have been watching it. I love crazy stuff and am really looking forward to seeing how this turns out.
Are your inside manifolds going to be some sort of home made 2 into 1 and how will they exit the chassis?

 

I understand what your saying I think and correct me if I'm wrong but my camshaft will turn the normal, standard, same as standard production, which I believe is Clockwise rotation with the direct gear to gear cam drive. With that said I'll keep an eye on it

Updraft (Tight Fit) zoomies will be made for it.

 

I finally get it. Needed to eat my breakfast/lunch to get my brain working again, sorry.

 

Makes sense , if they were a single unit they would most likley break.,will you run a single oil filter? You have the rear of the two gusseted together , will there be a bridge conecting the front of each motor as well>?

 

You got it right! the crank is the only thing that is reversed, that's why you have a gear drive instead of a chain for the cam.

 

Each engine will use there own factory oiling system with the oil pan sumps/pick-ups modified to level them back out and I'm using the same method to fab a front motor motor plate.

 

Carl, the carb spacing 5 1/2" C/L to C/L. My cam made it to Clay Smith today and George said he can grind me a cam on the stock core that will be .480 lift, 230 something Duration @.050 and he may be able to tighten the lope seperation to 108........I said "is it done yet" hope to have it next week! I have the front motor plate template done and now I have to transfer it to the actual plate and and we are ready for engines!!!!!

 

Wow, ive just found this and im going to enjoy watching it come together. to cool!

 

Hmmm, sounds a little out there, and like a fairly crazy idea- I love it,and am suscribed!

 

Fyi i know isky has reverse cams for chev because they have a 2 gear gear drive setup, I'm diggin this, i was even reading the old dragmaster 2 thing car craft issue today