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Projects Toymaker's Twin Engine Dragster Build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Toymaker, Nov 22, 2010.

  1. Toymaker
    Joined: Mar 26, 2006
    Posts: 3,924

    Toymaker
    Member
    from Fresno,CA

    Sounds like were on the same schedule:D

    I'll try (again:D) Skip, be great to get him up to Eagle Field for the Fresno Dragway Reunion.
     
  2. 296moon
    Joined: Oct 24, 2007
    Posts: 662

    296moon
    Member
    from england

    How about meshing them together with two idler gears like a camshaft gear drive, they could then run the same way with a greater contact on the teeth
     
  3. Toymaker
    Joined: Mar 26, 2006
    Posts: 3,924

    Toymaker
    Member
    from Fresno,CA

    That's a great idea but the cost kills my buzz:D
     
  4. I like Skips Idea, that would be great.
    Have a great Turkey day Roc...................
     
  5. thechopperguy
    Joined: Oct 27, 2007
    Posts: 149

    thechopperguy
    Member

    This is cool. I'll stay tuned.
     
  6. Toymaker
    Joined: Mar 26, 2006
    Posts: 3,924

    Toymaker
    Member
    from Fresno,CA

    OK, here's a beginning list of parts I need, the list will grow I'm sure and before you shoot an PM let me say moneys tight, here's the list, if you think you can help let me know
    1) T-Bucket body, plans are to use a Turtle Deck. I hope to build the car as a Modified Roadster.
    2) 2 sets of SB Chevy Header Flanges
    3) Small steering box like a VW
    4) 168 Tooth SB Chevy Flywheels, Aluminum prefered and must have been a race cert flywheel, current cert not required.
    5) 8.5 x 28 x 15 Pie Crust slicks and I plan on hopefully roasting them.
    6) 3x2 Offy, Edelbrock or ? SB Chevy Intake
    7) Direct Drive "Candle Stick" or input to rearend shaft
    8) 11" Certed Clutch & Pressure plate
    9) Hydraulic Throw Out Brg and Master Cyl
    10) 9" ford 4:ll gears
    <!-- / message --><!-- sig -->__________________
     
  7. Katuna
    Joined: Feb 25, 2005
    Posts: 1,822

    Katuna
    Member
    from Clovis,Ca.

    Rocky- On the body, we got ours from Unlimited Products down in Hesperia. Quality is pretty good especially for the price. They have a couple different sized bodies and the turtle deck. www.up22.com

    "The proceeding was not a payed endorsment"
     
  8. Carb's Rocky, really? I want to see how you make them run at a 45 degree angle. Maybe wedge spacers? I know money is tight, but I'd put Hilborns on the wish list.
     
  9. Toymaker
    Joined: Mar 26, 2006
    Posts: 3,924

    Toymaker
    Member
    from Fresno,CA

    Tubes are on the wish list, this is my reality list:D Yep, looks like wedge spacers for now.
     
  10. I've always wanted to build one of these, I'm subscribed!
     
  11. Toymaker
    Joined: Mar 26, 2006
    Posts: 3,924

    Toymaker
    Member
    from Fresno,CA

    Here's the body I missed, "O" well it is cut out for the tires more than I needed and I'm looking at another one this weekend.
    [​IMG]
    Heres some of my inspiration
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  12. Update Roc, I know you must have worked on it yesterday???????...............
     
  13. This one was over on the "Drag Cars in Motion" thread. ;)

    [​IMG]
     
  14. poofus1929
    Joined: Jan 29, 2008
    Posts: 897

    poofus1929
    Member
    from So Cal

    Here are a few shots of the Dragmaster car I snapped yesterday. Maybe you can get some ideas or inspiration from them.
     

    Attached Files:

  15. Mizlplix
    Joined: Jan 8, 2007
    Posts: 170

    Mizlplix
    Member
    from S/W USA

    If one engine is going to be reverse rotation, then the crankshaft must be too. the oil ports are drilled in a different place to suit the direction, ala mercruiser marine....been there got the bruises to show...as well as some burned out rod bearings.

    Great project though!
     
  16. Toymaker
    Joined: Mar 26, 2006
    Posts: 3,924

    Toymaker
    Member
    from Fresno,CA

    Thanks for the input guys, after mocking it up and maybe firing it the reverse engine will be torn down and the crank will be ground with the rotation in mind and the journals chamfered, A long time ago an engine machinist explained to me that a crankshaft must be polished with the crank rotation in mind so the microscopic edges don't eat the bearings, made sense. Now on with the build, I had plans of beginning the engine plate layout but work got in the way. However the weekend wasn't lost, I picked up a "T" body with a Turtle deck, virgin and ready for some modifications:D
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Hopefully soon I can get the 2 engines together and see what frame width will be required. I'm also looking for recommendations on covering the drivers area with fiberglass. Anybody done it?
     
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2010
  17. Make a female mould of MDF( medium density fibreboard) that will fit over the area . It is easily worked with woodworking tools, can be bondoed to fill in gaps , then put mould releasing wax on , and fibreglassed . The mould is only good for one pull and the gelcoat will be dull but sanding and a little paint will pretty it up. Rob.
     
  18. Toymaker
    Joined: Mar 26, 2006
    Posts: 3,924

    Toymaker
    Member
    from Fresno,CA

    Thanks Rob, I'm not looking forward to the glass work but excited about the end result!
     
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2010
  19. 64 DODGE 440
    Joined: Sep 2, 2006
    Posts: 4,421

    64 DODGE 440
    Member
    from so cal

    Hey Rocky...a lot of the aircraft home-builders use insulation foam (the rigid sheet stuff) shapes easily and then just lay the fiberglass over it. The foam can be dissolved out of the finished piece with solvent after the glass cures.
     
  20. Toymaker
    Joined: Mar 26, 2006
    Posts: 3,924

    Toymaker
    Member
    from Fresno,CA

    I was wondering about foam but had thought the heat or resin would eat it up. Good info Tom!
     
  21. Toymaker
    Joined: Mar 26, 2006
    Posts: 3,924

    Toymaker
    Member
    from Fresno,CA

    Well I finally got to work on the project this afternoon and started geting the engines ready for layout. I removed everything off the front of the engines and cleaned the machined surfaces so when I set them on a flat surface the back of the engines should be straight also.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    After flipping the engines I encountered my first obstical, I had to cut the starter mounting off the LH engine to get the flywheels to mesh.The block I'm using is an junk block, so out came the sawsall.
    [​IMG]

    Once I cut the block the flywheels matched great and now I can get started on my engine plate pattern.
    After setting the two egines together I found the frame width is going to be 28-32" wide, Plenty of room for my B-25 "Bomber" seat.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2010
  22. 64 DODGE 440
    Joined: Sep 2, 2006
    Posts: 4,421

    64 DODGE 440
    Member
    from so cal

    Front and rear engine plates should hold them together nicely.:D
     
  23. Go get'em Roc.............
    let me know what degree the intake will be at when you are done and what degree of slant to the crank.........
     
  24. Toymaker
    Joined: Mar 26, 2006
    Posts: 3,924

    Toymaker
    Member
    from Fresno,CA

    Thanks Carl, I spoke with George @ Clay Smith Cams today and the OE Cam is on its way for a regrind, hopefully something about 240-250 @ .050 duration, about .500 lift in a Hydraulic grind. The goal is to have the engines ready to fire for the Eagle Field Christmas Party (Date to Be announced). The remainder of parts for my wifes C/GD legal 292" Dragster Engine are on the way and I plan on mating the 350 that is currently in her car with a 307:eek: I aquired. A 657 CI "BABY" will make "POPPA" happy.:D
     
  25. Neglected Steel
    Joined: May 15, 2008
    Posts: 726

    Neglected Steel
    Member

    Look'n good Rocky! thats going to be one sweet ride.
     
  26. Great project. I had a mold for a '23 T tonneau cover with a center steer flared opening. Rod 'n Race is now owned by Scott Leber in Ohio. Check out the web site www.rodnrace.com.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Dec 4, 2010
  27. Katuna
    Joined: Feb 25, 2005
    Posts: 1,822

    Katuna
    Member
    from Clovis,Ca.

    Rod N Race has some cool stuff! Pricey though. I like the 12" cowl extention. For those of us that are circumferentially challanged.

    Hey Rocky, what about just using a snap on vinyl tonneau cover ala early 60's style. That's what we want on ours eventually.
     
  28. Toymaker
    Joined: Mar 26, 2006
    Posts: 3,924

    Toymaker
    Member
    from Fresno,CA

    Rich that is pretty cool but with my finances I need to learn some glass basics. Charlie I had thought about the vinyl cover but figured the 'glass would add some strenght to the body. Today a friend told me about "Starched" fiberglass, said he could get me what I need for free, anybody know about this stuff? Found some wheels and tires and they are on there way! Was going to go with Hurst tires but found these and snapped them up
    [​IMG]
    and from the beginning I've wanted 5 Spokes.
    [​IMG]
    Well out to th shop and work on the engine plate patterns.
     
  29. Katuna
    Joined: Feb 25, 2005
    Posts: 1,822

    Katuna
    Member
    from Clovis,Ca.

    Never heard of starched glass, do tell. Something I had thought about too to address the body rigidity was to make a aluminum tonneau insert and cover it with vinyl. 4 to 6 dzus fasteners and it would add some strength but be easy to pop out for work access.

    Whos tires (besides "yours")?
     
  30. Toymaker
    Joined: Mar 26, 2006
    Posts: 3,924

    Toymaker
    Member
    from Fresno,CA

    Towel City.
     

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