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Technical Torqueflight trans

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by bigp2, Jun 17, 2020.

  1. 67L36Driver
    Joined: Jun 1, 2020
    Posts: 68

    67L36Driver

    The good news is:
    Someone hooked up the neutral safety switch to a relay to prevent anything but neutral starts. And, rigged a cable from the trans throttle lever hopefully to the carb.

    Bad news is:
    Barring any other evidence, you have an early (pre '59) dash control operating a '59-'62(ish) transmission.
    And, someone added a length of tygon(?) hose w/clamp over the control cable. WTF! Oil leak control?

    Can you crank the engine in anything besides neutral? If you can start it in drive or reverse, you have a safety problem and should fix it.
     
  2. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 6,329

    73RR
    Member

    To some folks, all 727 are the same unless they are well versed in all things Mopar.
    The pic would appear to show a cast iron unit.

    BTW, welcome to the Hamb.

    ..
     
  3. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 46,135

    squirrel
    Member

    just bumping this picture to the second page of the thread, so I see it more easily :)

    727not.JPG
     
  4. 67L36Driver
    Joined: Jun 1, 2020
    Posts: 68

    67L36Driver

    I wish I could crawl under there and see for sure.

    The neutral safety switch sticks out at a 45 degree angle and the cable adjustment has a wheel. ‘59 up

    Cast iron version, switch points to rear and has a sliding tab w/cap screw to lock it. Pre ‘59

    I built and drove a for years a ‘53 F100 with ‘57 Desoto 341 and cast iron Torqueflite. Three circus fat ladies on the front bumper.

    The best move I made with that truck is replacing the Desoto with a Dodge 318” and 727. Lost 300# off the front axel.
     
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2020
  5. bigp2
    Joined: Jun 17, 2020
    Posts: 14

    bigp2

    You know the more I look at this thing I am beginning to believe it is a 904 not a 727, if you look at the pan diagram in the pictures the drivers side and the rear are straight.
     

    Attached Files:

  6. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 46,135

    squirrel
    Member

    If you want to do numbers, yours is the A466. The 904 and 727 have an aluminum case, with the bellhousing and case as one piece, and and an aluminum extension (tail housing).

    The center case on yours is cast iron. I think the bellhousing might be aluminum, though?
     
    30dodgeboy likes this.
  7. 73RR
    Joined: Jan 29, 2007
    Posts: 6,329

    73RR
    Member

    After poking around some I am not sure what trans you have.
    This is a pic if the post-62 TF showing the shift stem and switch
    upload_2020-6-18_15-29-46.jpeg

    Note how smooth the body is.

    This is a 59 cast iron piece:
    [​IMG]

    This looks more like what you have but some better pics will be needed.

    .
     
  8. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 46,135

    squirrel
    Member

    It looks pretty obvious to me that it's the cast iron case unit you show in your pictures.
     
  9. The picture the Op posted of the drivers side trans shows a CAST IRON transmission, alloy bell housing and alloy tailpiece.........the cable enters the trans thru a circular steel adjustment plate with the neutral switch screwing in at a 45degree angle from behind........interesting what appears to be the kickdown arrangement using a cable from ????......and the two pics the OP posted of the pan shape shows the Alloy 904 & 727 trans pans......the cast iron pan is basically square with two reinforcement pressings to strengthen it with a filler tube that screws INTO the actual trans pan on the US passenger side..........andyd
     
    67L36Driver likes this.
  10. bigp2
    Joined: Jun 17, 2020
    Posts: 14

    bigp2

    Thanks for the description, in your opinion what is the purpose of rubber hose with a clamp and the 2 steel braded hoses coming in from the top? As indicted in my original post, transmission works fine only problem button 1 works as if you are in D and D button works as if you 2, have no idea how to adjust?
     
  11. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 46,135

    squirrel
    Member

    I don't know the intricate details of how the different pushbutton shifters worked with the different transmissions. But my wild ass guess is that the shifter you have is designed to work with the specific valve body. There were a couple different shifter designs used for the few years they made the cast iron Torqueflite. Perhaps the shifter you have, is not the same as the one that came with the transmission originally?

    Anyways, it's a good mystery.

    I'd take things apart and figure out how they work, but some guys aren't into that kind of stuff.

    The braided lines are cooler lines.

    The rubber hose with a clamp is probably there either to keep the cable from leaking, or to protect it from rubbing on stuff somewhere. Not being the person who installed it, I can only guess.

    shifter.jpg
     
  12. bigp2
    Joined: Jun 17, 2020
    Posts: 14

    bigp2

    I think the builder used the same donor car for both the trans and the motor, 1956 354 hemi with A488 cast iron 3speed transmission with matching shifter. I am going to get the truck on a lift and see if I can figure out a way to adjust the cable? Found a good picture of A488 trans.
     

    Attached Files:

  13. Still trying to work out the shifter/kickdown arrangement that is shown in the original pic..........think I've got it now...........lol..............the clear hose with clamp is over the shift button cable, this cable controls the gear the gearbox is selected into from the buttons or in my case the fabricated shifter quadrant as I mentioned..........the circular plate at the entrance to the gearbox on the hose encased cable is where you adjust the cables length in relation to what gear or neutral.........as far as I am aware that is the only place the cable can be adjusted at tho' some push buttons may have had an adjustment area tho' I'm not aware of such a thing ........but what has me curious is that the "Lokar" style cable from a braided outer cable is attached to the horizontal kickdown lever. which must lead to somewhere up on the intake or accelerator linkage ...AND the use of a tubular steel post to hold the bracket for the "lokar" outer cable I've not seen on these cast iron boxes and has taught me something new ..........and that large rod with the heim joint attached to a thick steel bracket is part of the foot brake pedal linkage...........and those 2 braided hoses are the in/out lines to a trans cooler, either original in the lower radiator tank or ideally a separate trans cooler........also suggest running a trans fliud filter in line also as good insurance...........andyd.
     
    Desoto291Hemi likes this.
  14. With my cast iron T/F which was button operated, now shift lever operated it will only start in Neutral, if shifted into Drive it goes thru 3 gears correctly however I can manually move the shifter into 2nd for more go.........lol.........or I can start it in 1st and hold it in 1st till I decide to move the shifter into 2nd or Drive(3rd)..........in Drive I can floor the accelerator pedal and it will kickdown into 2nd...........note that the kickdown lever at the gearbox has no actual external adjustment as such, it is just moved thru its range of travel to make the trans kickdown.........dunno if all my crap has helped or hindered.........lol..........andyd
     
    Desoto291Hemi likes this.
  15. bigp2
    Joined: Jun 17, 2020
    Posts: 14

    bigp2

    The good news is the transmission all works the kickdown and the neutral safety switch work properly, the shifting is smooth true all three gears and shift points are good and clean, but you have to have number 1 button depressed to be in Drive? And yes the cable to the kickdown is connected to the throttle linkage. I will let you know if adjusting per the Chrysler specs work.
     
    Desoto291Hemi and squirrel like this.
  16. Big2..........nope, it should be in Drive when the D button is pushed......well at least thats how mine operates & has done since installed 45 yrs ago........BTW I assume you have a park brake setup somehow?...........originally this was in a drum on the driveshaft up to 1962, then on the rear axle drums after that as "normal"..........andyd.
     

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