Tired of Crappy Electric Fuel Pumps!

Just chalk it up to the INTERNET being what it is. No one is required to have any credentials to post what they think.

 

Advance Auto Parts has the Airtex 84070 which is actually the carter 4070 in the box. I ran this pump for years along with the big canister style fram filter before the pump with no issues. Just keep the pump as close to the tank as you can. The manufacturer recommends with in 3 feet of the tank.

 

I had a clearance problem and switched from an electric to this
http://www.racepumps.com/

 

I'd do the same setup you run if I were to redo everything, in all honesty. I don't have any trouble with this setup, but I'm also aware it could be better. Other things on the to do list first!!

 

No, you're not missing anything, it isn't better. It's not even right.
Electric pumps are pushers, not pullers. They're meant to push fuel, not siphon it AND push it. If anything, you want LOWER pressure inside the fuel tank, as like with any liquid, pressurizing fuel causes heat. The cooler your fuel, the better (to a point, of course). An electric pump won't work "better" with pressure behind it. In fact, it will probably have issues keeping the output pressure where it needs to be, since any pressure behind it from the tank will be constantly fluctuating. Electric pumps run at a set speed, so any pressure inside the fuel tank might push the fuel against the set speed of the electric pump's drive, causing it to overheat, heating your fuel even more, cause internal leaks, burp back inside the tank and cause all kinds of havoc with fuel delivery. Zero pressure is what you want inside the fuel tank. This is why we have vented gas caps.
The BEST way to run a electric pump is to have a return line and a regulator, though neither are necessary in all cases. Electric pumps generate a set PSI of fuel pressure, and most of them will deliver the minimum for most carbureted applications. If you need to dial pressure back, you need a regulator, like in my case. The Black pump delivers 14psi of pressure, but my Holley is designed to work best between 4 and 7 psi. So you put a regulator between the pump and the carb, which does nothing more than restrict flow. This setup works well enough, but can cause some inconsistency in fuel delivery since the pump provides a higher volume of fuel than the carb needs. The pump has an internal pressure relief, but it's not the best for consistent delivery. The thing to do is to put a return line off the regulator back to your tank, or even just loop it back to the inlet side of the regulator (though not as good as a return line). This gives the excess fuel someplace to go, and keep the fuel delivery nice and smooth.

Or at least this is how I understand it all!!
Check out pages 118-120:
http://books.google.com/books?id=VP...#v=onepage&q=return line on regulator&f=false

 

Mine usually ends up that way because of a plugged sock or it happens during the build. If you are driving it is very hard to pull it down for a change like that. I understand where you are totally.

BTW I'm not a tri five chevvy guy as a rule but if that is your five five in your avitar it is a very nice looking car. Love the way it sits.

 

Hahaha, that's my philosophy. If it works and I can drive it, I'll live with it for now.

Thanks for the compliments, here's some more pics:
http://s18.photobucket.com/albums/b129/bluedevilfxt/updated 55/
It's dropped on spindles and springs in the front, with de-arched leafs and air shocks in the rear. Just a little rake.
I fell in love with the 55 when I was little and I built my first plastic model: A Monogram "Badman II" 55 Chevy. I like the 56 and 57, but they don't hold the same appeal for me. Not many cars I'd give my 55 up for.

 

Right, so if the pump is "pushing" wouldn't it be ideal to have it "push" the shortest distance possible?

Considering, as someone else stated, that the static (minimal, not pressurized) pressure from the fuel in the tank would be consistent over any span of line up to the pump, wouldn't it then still be ideal to have it closer to the motor, even in some minute way?

If you have a 10 foot span of line between a tank and an engine, where would you put a pump that is going to be "pushing" a given volume of fuel?

 

An improperly vented tank will smoke an electric fuel pump everytime, quick. Real quick.

 

The 2 Carters were both P4070's, and the filter is BEFORE the pumps, so no crap gets in the pump. Tank IS vented well, and the wireing is 12 gauge, and the pump motors all still work fine...they just don't pump. The P4070's I disassembled, and the plastic drive connectors were broken...NO foreign matter in any of the pumps. Picked up that Airtex E8012 and installed it. Turned the key on...NOTHING...so I thought. Got under the car, and I could BARELY hear the pump running! Can NOT hear it at all in the car. The absolute quietest electric pump I've EVER heard. BTW, it pumps to beat hell, too (6 lbs). A big bonus, too...made in the good old US. Now, we'll see how long THIS one lasts...

 

Electric pumps are pusher pumps and should be placed as close to the tank as possible. Inside the tank is great because the fuel cools the pump unless you run the tank too low.

The nylon screens used in gas tanks in the past will swell in the presence of ethanol and unleaded gas.

 

no, because it's got to pull the fuel all the way from the tank. it has to do what it's not designed to do.

 

I owned a couple of '57s a rag top and a wagon. The rag never hit the road except some of the trim that ended up on the wagon. looked nice with the belair trim. I guess that is off topic for this thread.

So getting back on topic I ran the wagon on an Airtex pump. That was in the '70s and the pump was used when I got it. I traded the wagon for a Triumph Bonneville. But I kept the pump the fellas wanted a mechanical to feed the 2 4s. go figure. That airtex pump is at least 40 years old and gawd knows how many miles it has on it.

I gave the pump to my father in law who used it on several cars. He gave the pump back to me about 10 years ago. It is in my garage still functions well and makes a good backup get it on the road in a pinch pump. I actually had it mounted on the firewall of my galaxie before I went with a new el cheapo autozone pump. One of those that look about like a big ice cube.

I drove the 'zone pump for 3 years then when I sold the galaxie the other fella drove it for a couple of years that I know of.

There are a lot of things that will knock an electric pump out. If I had more than one go on a specific car I would be looking for other problems as has been mentioned in this thread already, I don't believe that the problem is the pumps.

 

http://pure-gas.org/

This is a link to find ethanol-free stations in the U.S. I'm lucky enough to have at least 4 near me.

 

thanks for the link!! the once closest to me i go to all the time and never realized. looks like i'll be going there ALL the time.

 

I just hope the list gets bigger instead of smaller. Awesome car in the avatar BTW.

 

8lb Carter mounted close to the tank as i could,, never had an issue on my 53 chevy, going on 4 years.........and now that ive posted this it will prob go out tomorrow, then something else that has nothing to do with anything..........Awwwwwe the joys of hot rodding

 

thanks!!

 

Aeromotive, I have thier street/strip pump. its probably 4 years old now and still works great. Be sure to have a good filter before the pump and have the pump mounted lower than the tank pick up. most electric pumps dont pull fuel well. they need to be gravity fed.

 

You are correct about the vented gas cap. If the tank doesn't have a good vent, you are making the pump overwork and heat up, possiblity causing the plastic parts to fail.

 

Got rid of mine altogether. Propane doesn't need a fuel pump.

 

Yea and with a T and a shut off you can run your camp stove off the same tank as the truck.

 

True, same stuff. And if you run it dry, in a pinch, you can just hook up a BBQ tank and go.

 

Went the Holley route for many years and they were okay but, I switched to Purolator about 10 years ago with good luck so far. Much cheaper smaller and very reliable. Part numbers I see online is PRO 06SV you can get them at NAPA, Carquest and some O'Reilys and a few other places, I think I paid less than $20 each.

 

Running Mallory 140 system on my Avatar. Only problems are brush wear but they are available. Of course the idea of brushes and a commutator near the fuel system gives me some concern. Permanent Mag motor probably best and safest.

 

like this?
has a relay near batt...

 

A bunch of the vintage road racers use Facet, pulse-type pumps with good success. Never heard any complaints. I have them on two cars...no problems.

 

That one looks just like the Mr Gasket one repackaged?

 

i had a Facet pump on an old HD/Columbia golf cart. it works well and does not pull that much juice. under 5 amps i believe... replaced it with a mister gasket low pressure electric cause it was overpowering the float needle

 

I know Carter suggests running the 4070 as close to the tank as possible but I've had no problems whatsoever with one mounted on the firewall with a regulator dialed to 4psi feeding a Dellorto carb in an o/t vehicle that gets beat on alot. 4 years of street driving, no return, no pre filter, cheap glass filter from autozone after the pump.