Tips on Painting the Roof

Much aloha to the Hambo's who responded to my sanding dilema...http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=747088

Now that I'm expert at it I want to get the top in color before the rains and would like to hear any suggestions on painting that football field.

I'll be doing this without a helper and am concerned with coverage in hte center and the hose touching fresh paint and spray pattern.

When shooting primer I couldn't make a complete pass from front to back; is it necessary to do a complete pass. What do you guys do? Trying not to screw this up and do it once. Thanks!

 

paint the roof separatly, i like to do it first. its better if you can get front to back.
some times a small scaffold will help.
keeping the gun 90* to the foof panel is lots of practice and getting your body up high enough

 

Thanks 31vicky, I'll have to rig something, it's on an incline (redneck paint job) and yeah, 90 to the panel.

 

Also run your air line over your sholder it helps to keep it of the roof.

 

What kind of car are you painting? Base Clear? You don't have to do front to back in one pass. I've painted plenty of mini van roofs standing on a stool sparying as much as I could then moving the stool and spraying the next area.

Also if you put the air line over your shoulder it helps keep it out of your paint.

 

Painting my '57 Chev, single stage.

Yeah, was thinking of taping that thing to my shoulder.

 

I'm 5'9" and I've painted some big roofs ('60 Imperial, Cadillac, etc.)
Used to put a picnic bench on each side and drape the hose over my shoulder.
The key to painting the larger panels is don't let the reach make you tilt the gun or you'll get tiger stripes. Even with primer you want to keep it perpendicular.

 

Sit on someone's shoulders, done it!

 

Wash your brush out it thinners after use...........

 

as stated put hose over shoulder you start at the drip rail and work towards center, you may not make it to exact center. If when you go to other side you could have a walk way of like 2x8's lumber a couple high or a short bench to walk on if needed for extra height. Also the reducer you choose will help with the overlap ares in center of roof as far as flowing out. I did our 57 buick in our garage basecoat clearcoat with the 2x8's stacked two high just to gain those couple of inches and kick them out of the way as needed. good luck to ya!

 

Now,that is some good info !!!!

 

Another tip ....

If you sweat, you'll want to make sure you don't drip any down your arm, out of your glove or off your brow while your stretched over the roof.

Figure out a way to catch it before you have paint in the gun.

Them monkey suits and nitril gloves get me sweating, maybe your different. Its not such a problem on anything but a roof for me.

 

put the hose over your shoulder, make complete passes and amke sure your sleeve or shirt dosent touch the wet paint, make sure the floor dosent have anything you`ll trip over, and have a good mask.

 

Don't put any more paint in the gun than it takes to do one coat. The extra weight of the unused paint will kill your shoulder. Wrap some masking tape around your arm like garter belts to take the slack out of your shirt sleeve so that it doesn't drag in the paint. Wear a sweat band so your brow sweat doesn't end up in the paint. Loop the air hose over your shoulder so that it doesn't drag through the paint. Blow the dust and lint off of yourself before starting the job so that the hair, lint, dirt doesn't end up in your paint.

Do you see a pattern here, don't get it into the paint! And as stated previously, 90 degrees on the gun angle is best, use a reducer with the right speed to absorb overspray, use consistant passes and overlaps. Don't create problems, eliminate them before they happen.

Dave.

 

Use a paint pot!

You'll have plenty of paint so you won't run out and the only thing in your hand will be the lightweight gun.

 

Not mentioned , Start at drip rail on one side , go front to back to the center , then go to the other side as quick as you can and start at your wet center and work back out to your drip rail, This will help keep away from tiger stripe , dry bands, Good Luck , Joe

 

I personally start in the center of the roof and work my way to the edge, this helps keep your arm out of it, at least for the first coat of clear. Even with spot/panel clear your edge will stay wet enough to finish one half of the roof and walk around and start the other side. Don't forget to blow out the moisture from your respirator, those drops never seem to come out on their own until you're hovering over a wet panel