I've searched for the past two days and can't seem to find what I'm looking, and as this is my first floor replacement/rocker job I figured I would just start a thread. My questions are simple and yet I can't figure out the answer. first question; when putting in the new floor, what do the panels get spot welded to second question; do the rockers overlap the floor or do they butt up to the floor...and if so how. I know there are three pieces to the rocker but I am confused as to how they all get put together in relation to the floor. pics would be very useful, and I appreciate all the help bob
Not to sound like a smart ass..... they need to be welded to good metal. So sometimes that means a fair bit of exploration until you find good metal. I like to start a job such as you decribe by fitting the doors. Usually means re-building hinges and pins. Once the doors fit, I replace the inner rocker, checking door fit as you go. If some structural steel can be installed across the door opening (bit still leaving room for the door to open and close) it will help to resist the natural shrink caused by welding. Go slow and constantly check measurements. Once inner is done, begin outer rocker. Maintain gap to door bottom. Now install floor one section at a time. Go slow, keep checking door fit. If it get's wonky, back up. Floors do no have to be welded in solid. Stitch weld with a good quality seam sealer later.
I guess what I should have said was "are there braces that the floors sit on top of that the floors then get spot welded to the braces?"
Hey, Um, did I miss the part where you tell us what kinda vehicle you're rebuilding & is it on a conventional frame or unitbody construction? How badly are the floor and rocker areas rusted & do you have repair panels or are you going to build those? Most oem floors use lap seam flanges to ease construction at the factory, but if your building your own I'd opt for as many clean butt welds as possible. Lap seams can be well sealed after welding, but can lead to early rusting if not sealed properly to begin with. I would not use anything thinner than 19 gage crs on a floor panel. " Meanwhyle, back aboard The Tainted Pork "
I didn't weld my doors, I didn't even use braces, I just made sure the doors fit right and OFTEN. I did all the floor work before I joined the HAMB, so I just thought it out and did thee best I could, fortunately it came out ok....
The floor literally lays/overlaps on the upper most portion of the rocker. I'll try and get some picturs of how it lays on there. Rex... He has a '53 Poncho.
Okay, this was the closest I could get. I know it's not super helpful, but at least you can see how it looked intact. I couldn't tell if it was actually screwed or welded to it's floor structure, but I suspect that the screw holes I'M seeing are just for the seat risers. Looking at it a little closer, it looks like it's an over-under construction where the floor meets the rocker. Has flaps that sit on top and underneith, alternating. Overlap Captive nuts, probably for the seat... Here's the front floorboards and kick panels...
Like said before make sure you keep an eye on your door gaps, especially the lower door gap, that meets your rear quarter if your doing alot of floor and rocker welding. Seen them shrink up to 1/4 inch closing up the gap before you know it.
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