Tips for removing freeze plugs?

I have a leaky freeze plug in my SBC 350. I was going to try to replace it today. I've had another HAMBer give me the tip that to tap around the inner edge until the opposite side starts to pop out. This seems easy enough (gulp), however a coworker (Pontiac guy) told me to be careful not to drive it into the block. He said to poke a hole in it with an awl and pull it out somehow.
Years ago, I got a tip from someone here to get a tailshaft seal out by drilling a small hole and using a self tapping screw in the hole and pliers to pry from the screw. Is that a good method for the freeze plug, too?

Thanks.

 

slide hammer, dent puller

 

It's really not all that hard.. Straight blade screw driver, punch, or a chisel, a hammer, and a pair of channel locks is all you need.. Tap on one edge, the opposite edge will come up, grab it with the channel locks and pull it out.. No need to drill anything.. That's how I get freeze plugs out, works everytime..

 

I usually drill a small hole towards one edge of the freeze plug, then put a fairly good sized self-tapping screw in it, and use a good old claw hammer to get under the screw head and pull it out. Driving one end into the block as suggested will work as well, and I wouldn't be too concerned with it falling into the block. They're easy to get out, just finagle it so part of it can be grabbed with a vise grip, and it'll come right out. FYI, if you're dealing with the disk shaped plugs instead of the "cup" shaped ones, DON'T drive them into the block, as there is a ridge machined into the block that the disk seats against, and attempting to drive it in could damage this ridge.

 

I've had em fall in the block, just fish it out. I like to get a screwdriver in it, then pry on it. If it doesn't come out, it's at least deformed enough not to fall into the block.

 

Ditto on Left Turn's method!!....... Works every time.

 

If you're doing this with the engine in the car from underneath, wear safety goggles. When I did one in my bronco I used the tap one side method. When it let go it turned out the engine wasn't completely drained and coolant isn't real good in your eyes...

 

Yeah, this engine was JUST PUT IN so I don't want to pull it out. That's a good call on the goggles nofin. I'll get cracking when my houseguests leave.

Thanks.

 

I had one fall in once, not a real big deal but a pain in the ass. What I do now is drill a small hole and screw in a sheet metal screw, tie a string to it then tap it with a punch untill it pops out oppisite the punch, grab it and yank it out, if it does fall in you can at least get it back to where you can grab it by pulling on the string. There are any number of good ways to to the job, thats mine !

 

I often wonder why the whole crowd of us doesn't just replace ALL the core plugs in any used motor before installation. It's a relatively easy and cheap fix for a problem that can put you down for awhile on the roadside and cost a tow bill too.

 

Thanks Pasadenahotrod! Finally someone used the right name. Core Plugs
Freeze plugs NOT!!!

 

Thats how i remove core plugs, always worked for me.

 

Almost word for word what I was going to say. Just don't hit it too hard with the hammer. I've seen one cracked cylinder wall where some guy wailed on the thing with a bfh to knock the freeze plug in and went a bit too far.

If you grab it with the "top" of the channel locks towards the center of the cup you can then roll it out easily.

No bfd if they fall in the water jacket you just fish them back up to where you can get hold of them with a pair of channel locks and roll them out.

 

Don't worry about it falling in the block. First of all, it won't go out of site where you can't reach it. Second, it may allow you more position options for removal.

 

When they leak already you can usually shove a screwdriver into it with your hand they are so thin.
Then pry till it comes out.
Just be carful you don't bugger up the hoe where the new one has to seal!
If one is leaking they are all about to go, unless someone's been replacing them one at a time.
(general) If there's one behind a motor mount, support the block and take the mount off to get to it.
In lieu of a core plug driving tool I use one of my Grandpa's old deep sockets that just fits in the plug to drive a skirted plug in, and an old wobbly and an extension to get a better angle on the dangle if the engines in the car.
Some engines have core plugs behind the flywheel! (not SBC's though.) Correction! SBC's DO have them behind the flywheel!
Engines with disc plugs install with the socket deal with the plug crown out, ten flatten with a ball peen hammer, but don't hit hard enough to concave them or they just get loose again.
I "lube & glue" them with a little hard drying Permatex for insurance.

 

Yes they do (2)

 

OOPS! oh Yea, they do, my bad....

 

I use an air chisel with a V notch. one side of the V punctures the center, then use the notch to pop it out. Works like a charm.

 

fords dont have them on the back of the block , belly buttons do

 

That is what I did with my motor. I took it out, powered washed it, replaced all the gaskets expect for the head gasket and I installed all new brass freeze plugs. Very easy and inexpensive.

 

What a pain in the ass that was! I thought getting it out would be the hard part...getting the new one back in was torture. I was dealing with the one that's closest to the oil filter, and between the axle, tie rod, and that damn oil filter I had no room to swing the hammer.

 

They have expandable copper/brass ones for that. BUT, U didn't ask

 

Oh and just incase you the plug does fall down inside the block one of those extendable magnets works great... (forget the string trick mentioned above, and anything that involves you, two midget hookers, a bag of funny looking mushrooms, and a guy in a long fuzzy red velvet coat and a large brimmed hat... there are very few good things that can come from that)

There's really no need to over complicate something as easy as taking out frost plugs...

 

Put a little (9/16") socket against one inner side and whack it with a hammer. The other side will pop out of the block. Pull it out with Channelocks. Dress the inside lips of the holes with crocus cloth and install BRASS freeze plugs with liquid latex using a socket sized almost exactly the same as the ID of the plugs themselves. Done.

 

I don't know what you mean by "expandable" but the one I took out was brass so the one I put back in was brass, too. I used the socket trick (1 1/16" socket). The trouble was with not having enough room to swing the hammer. One side was probably 1/32" deeper so I took a smaller socket and banged the other side down so they were a bit more uniform. I probably hit it with that hammer (hammers) for 40 mins.

 

I don't operate this way but lots of mechanics don't bother to fish them out of the block, they just leave them in and put a new one over the top. They won't go anywhere and don't hinder coolant flow.

 

Unfortunately, that is what NAPA and most of the other parts houses call them.

 

Most likely they do only because the general public uses the term 'freeze plug' and it's easier and less time consuming than trying to change the world.......which is often wrong about a lot of other things too!

Ray

 

Freeze plug is proper. If the water in the block freezes it expands and pushes the plug out. At least that is the theory. Seen too many blocks cracked from freezing so I guess the theory is just that

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Core plug. Core plugs are used to fill the sand casting core holes found on water-cooled internal combustion engines. They are also incorrectly called frost plugs, freeze plugs, or engine block expansion plugs.
The above comes from Wikepedia
Ive worked in a foundry for a few years not making engines but other mechanical components I am sure core plugs are for removing the core sand within an engine block when they cast an engine block the water jacket is made of sand which needs to be removed.