And just like that! 6 is 4! Gotta make one hole round and then I can try it out and start getting tubes fitted did a killer job tig welding it up!
It’s on! Sorta... drilled the hole threw the back side with a step drill. Ryan welded up the back side of the hole just leaving some of the hole on the front side to locate it. Super stoked that I got it dead on! I noticed it didn’t want to seat all the way and it’s the back locating stud slightly contacting I’m going to file off the bit I markered and should fit and be ready to fit tubes!
Cleared the slot and still didn’t seat. Found that the non threaded part of the studs in the head are just a tiny bit bigger than the threads and on closer inspection found a tiny ridge inside of the drilled hole that was holding it up. Ran a file threw it quick and now it fits! tossed the intake on and will finally get to fitting tubes this week. Lost an hour or two cutting the dry rotted tires off my “new” wheels. The bead is rusted to the rim so It’s fighting me for sure. 100 on my driveway I was heat sick and surrendered for the day. want to get them free so I can get them in an acid bath to clean them up
Back in the 60s when I was in JC I worked in a Montgomery Wards tire shop. Because I was the most expendable member of the crew I got the rusty crap and split rims. On the really bad ones, things a shop wouldn't touch today, I poured Coke around the bead and let it sit overnight. Some times it took a couple of nights to loosen them up. I bet some of your citric acid soup would do the same thing.
Trimmed an 1/8 off the centers and started the mock up/ hammer to fit the flange opening and repeat dance. headers on a v8 will seem super easy after this lol. Having this flange to space the intake out is a life saver it’s very tight. I can see why after market and home made intakes does inliners come out from the engine so far. having this section to test fit off the car is amazing. Isn’t taking much to get them to fit. Trying to find the fine line between it being rushed and being to anal and it’s never done. do what you can with what you got. Some times that applies to time as well! any how there’s this mornings update.
I’ve been back and forth about a fire wall mounted oil filter or just putting a spun aluminum rock guard on the stock filter. Not the best photos but found this today for $4.50 and figured for that much it was worth the gamble that it may live on my shelf. the follow up thought is do you upgrade the fittings to 1/2” add 32 1/4” holes in the tube to add flow. or do something like this https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...al-oil-filter-last-nights-bright-idea.982979/ and hide a new filter in it? I like the idea of threaded modern filter over the drop ins wix and the like make for this sort of thing- but the added steps to changing a filter sounds like more work than I want to do to get to an oil filter. are the new drop in filters just as “effective” as a threaded canister? Wondering if the effort to put a spin on filter would be worth the added filtration if any?
Ok as a hot rodder I like the idea, but as a hydraulics tech I would warn you that you have all sorts of line size things you need to think about. That canister will only have 1/4" lines, a huge restriction in terms of flow. You need about 1/2" inside line size. That canister will not be very happy at high pressure as they are designed to be run on a bypass system. Having said that you can fix that old canister to make it work, it will take some mods though. Redrill the inlet and outlet and tap to 1/2" NPT. Build new hoses. And get a stainless type filter with a micron rating to suit your engine, probably in the 15-25 range. Don't forget you may need to figure out a bypass of some sort, if the filter plugs you will lose oil pressure. Make damn sure you have the gauge plumbed after the filter to monitor the pressure at the bearings, not before the filter. Make sense?
Yup, I mentioned it in my post but easy to miss in my rambling. I read in a thread from years ago that my friend was running a beehive style set up on his 292 6 and had changed the hose sizes to 1/2 inch like you mention as well as putting 32 1/4 inch holes in the tube to add flow. I’m curious how you’d go about making the bi pass. Seems you could bridge the in and out lines just before the filter, but what stops it from just going past? Maybe make it a smaller line so the bigger line to the filter is the path of least resistance? edit: the idea to run the oil pressure gauge from the out line is super smart wouldn’t have thought of that I don’t think
A bypass valve is spring pressure controlled. (Or pressure compensated but that's a rabbit hole.) higher spring pressure equals higher bypass. Same as a pressure regulator, in fact they can be the same thing. If I get a minute I will draw up what I mean. It's easier to understand in pictures
That’s actually what I thought of initially so we are on the same page I think. but I’m a sucker for pictures so feel free
I guess if you could find a filter cartridge for it that would work like a champ. Or you could use it for a filter cover on a remote filter setup. You would need to find a filter small enough to go inside and maybe fabricate a piece or two.
Looks like it’s work to make it work one way or another. If the drop in filter will work just as well as a screw on type filter I’m leaning towards doing that because it’s the easiest to do a filter change with and pretty minimal modification it sounds like
Googling the numbers and words on the lid I think the filter is from a 1946 dodge pickup neat little detail on the bolt head looks like it’s supposed to be there. Heck looks like it’s always been there lol stock is has the roll of toilet paper filter as seen in this article on the filter/canister but I did find a drop in metal filter pretty easy. I’m sure there’s plenty that would fit. http://www.secondchancegarage.com/feature-articles/sock-filter-1.cfm
You can find steel strainer filters on Donaldson filters website. They list their sizes. Then you need to drill and tap the lines to accept fittings with an inside diameter the same size as all the feeds to and from the oil pump. 1/2" inside is what the hemi is, yours may be smaller.
yeah 1/2” is what I see the most often. I’d still love to see your bypass scribble when you get time btw sorta. Originally I was going to run a spun aluminum rock guard over the stock filter but I do like how the firewall mounted canisters look. It’s also kind of a tight fit to pull the stock filter off. End of the day though I’m probably going with whatever I think looks best but still does the job
There is so much going on with that side of the engine. The starter, fuel pump, distributer, mount on such a short block crowd it a lot. I'm using an electric fuel pump and using that hole for the oil filler. I want a remote filter and had not thought of a firewall mount, thanks. That would give me more options for the front mounts and I hadn't thought of clearance for the stock spin on.
@drdave picked up one from O’Brien truckers that uses a spin on filter inside a cool rubbed canister. You might give that a look
Got the first of the center primaries fitted to the flange clearing the intake this morning. Going to tack it and move onto the second. The enter the flange in the curve so it took some creative hammer shrinking and a dremel to the flange but it clears! After the center is done it shouldn’t be much to get the second set done. Then I’ll figure out where the collector is going to land and the o2 sensor bung. @Joe H any advice on placing the sensor? Also thank you again for the flange!
One fitted and tacked. Sit it on the car tonight and work on finishing the second center primary fitting. doesn't touch but it almost does. It’s the block off plate not the manifold itself so I’m thinking when it’s all done and welded I’ll go back and cut some scallops into that plate for a little breathing room.
Playing with the rest tonight. They aren’t exactly as mocked up but they are close. Hanging by strings and magnets is only going to get you so close. Tacked the rear center this morning and when I tried to slide it on found that by the time I cleared the intake the primary tucked closer to the block by about 2 inches than I’d planned and runs right into the bell housing I think if I had them angled out it would hit the intake so I’m just going to keep moving forward fitting, mocking up, tacking and tweaking as I go. feels like it’s going to work out fine though so far
There is no need for the block off plate unless you plan to run hot water through it. There will be no fuel or air in that area, so you can remove it altogether.
@Joe H I guess you’re right! I’d always seen them blocked this way but there were always plumbed. Good catch.
The need for heat under the carb on an inline is often lost on V8 guys where the carb sits over the engine and there is usually exhaust through the intake. Many inline guys don't run any heat. I have tried both and usually run heat sometimes water and sometimes water. The concept is not so much a summer-winter thing but to keep the fuel vaporized in the mixture and not condensing and falling out into the intake log. Sitting so close the the exhaust you'll get some heat, maybe enough. Once in winter without heat and my header wrapped I saw ice on the carb bases on a warm engine.
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