Step away from the HAMB for a month and you miss a lot! Thanks for posting your build. I'm subscribed.
My S-10 only had an 11 gallon tank, the cross flow banger would go somewhere in the neighborhood of 250 miles @ 80 MPH (which came in handy a couple of times in the Mojave).
2-1/2", wanted to go a little more; but my friend's son is a pretty big guy and he felt comfortable there.
Got to thinking about it a little more and dug a piece out of the scrap pile; guess we did go a little more and actually cut it 3". Sorry about the bum info.
Alright time for an update I suppose I've been collecting bits and pieces and with the interior of the 46 about done I've start bringing more of the A stuff into the garage They sure gave me plenty of room on the interstate lol. With enough in the shop I started this first loose mock up Then I threw a hood and fenders on, one splash apron and some seats etc. There's some 35 wires wheels and tires under the fenders but you can't see them. Not really that exciting but I sure bounced off the walls excited about it And I've got more room to work than I thought I would shoving it in this spot so that's a perk. Oh and found this photo this morning, looks pretty close to the right color combo So where are we now with the build? Current plan: A frame, axles and springs. Main leafs reversed and leafs pulled. Front axle dropped and narrowed with later spindles with f something brakes up front and 46-8's in back. Torque tube and radius rods in back Pinched 46-8 un split wishbone in front 46 ish steering? Stock sheet metal but I might ditch the front splash pan I'm back and forth on that. 2.5/ 153 Chevy four with a scratch made intake and exhaust with some cool stuff along the way. Might stick a different cam in it before it hits the road as well. Speed gems sbc to old ford adapter to a 39 top shift case with 46 gears. Tt to banjo. You know. Your standard hot rod stuff Keep ya posted
Oh! And it's got this side draft carb on it. Flows about the same as a 97 and was used on tons of stuff including ford tractors. Thinking about running a pair of them if I can find a cheap second carb. It's a marvel schebler and I've yet to really find all the numbers on it but I think it's a VH model. Google says there should be a tag on it somewhere with more numbers. I'll have to investigate later. Any of you know these carbs or have an extra?
I am liking this build too. All 28-29s had black fenders and wheels originally. I would put the fenders and wheels in a dark green and the body a bit lighter green.
Alright after some research, nosing around and help from a couple friends I made the call to ditch the weird side draft ( flows about 170 cfm I think) and go with a set of carter w-1's instead. I got three that I may be able to get two out of I need to start running all the numbers and learning a bit more about these specific carbs but I'm excited about them
Why ditch the side draft carbs? Hard to get parts? Sent from my SM-N900P using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Seems like rebuild parts aren't to hard to find but finding another carb is. I've found a handful of the same style for around $300 and up but they aren't the exact same carb just the same model, and still need rebuilt. The numbers came back as being from a Wisconsin engine like you'd find in a lawn tractor or a big tiller or snow blower. I don't think they came on the v4 ones you typically see but maybe on a two cylinder? One of those things where if you could find the odd ball equipment that used one you could buy it all for $40 but if you look for just a carb its $300 lol. In the end that doesn't fit the budget and I'm afraid that id put the time into finding a pair and realize the reason there's not a lot of info out there for them is because they are a shitty weed wacker carb haha. I think the flange base is similar to the carters so ill shelf the side draft and if I stumble across a twin down the road maybe I'll try it out. For now I'm planing on two carters
Getting pretty jazzed. I'm going to try and have the suspension under the car and the drivetrain sitting in it by January. Tucks shots of all his in progress chassis have got me jonesing
Yeah he's the one who figured out what my weirdo carb came on and decided what little info I had. I've been using his website to bone up on carbs the last few weeks, it's been a great help.
Yeah that's why the carter change. I've a few friends that run them and like them so I feel ok about running a pair of them. Figure if I get a decent size plenum in the intake design it shouldn't be super finicky about them being dead on synced... Hopefully
Well via @carbking 's website I have a very complete 1932 chevy w-1, a 1934 Chevy w-1 that's a little rough and missing the cap and some little bits but pretty complete. The last is a 1949 Chevy that's 100% complete. That one came off my friends running driving car so I guess that one is my 1 out of 2 that I'll need. I'm half way there! Haha
Tim - a bit of free advice: Don't use the 1949, parts are unique (read expensive)! Generally, the W-1's to use would be; 420s (1939-1940 Chevrolet) 483s (1941-1942 Chevrolet) 574s (1946-1948 Chevrolet) The 483s and 574s may be mixed. If you use the 420s, you need matched 420s, do not mix these. The 420s has a wee bit smaller venturi than the 483s and the 574s. Jon.
Good advice thank you! These are the numbers of the style not the tag correct? If my 49 carb is complete and I'm rebuilding it just to be safe and clean it up would you expect I'd run into needing to replace the one year only parts?
The numbers I posted are the tag numbers we generally recommend for aftermarket use. They are relatively common, not expensive, and parts are readily available. The 49 carb (tag number 684s) has a unique accelerator pump. Not sure, but I think we are the only supplier, and I make the *&^%$ thing one at a time by hand in my shop! There are other parts which are difficult. The good news with the Carter W-1 is that original accelerator pumps (as are the ones I make) were made from leather. Often, one can remove the accelerator pump from the carb PRIOR to dunking it in any cleaner, and soak it in a light machine oil overnight (3 n 1 oil, neetsfoot oil, or sewing machine oil). Often, this will rejuvanate the leather, and it will not have to be replaced. But in the case of the 49 carb, if it does have to be replaced; very costly. The '49 is a good carb, but no better (other than the "fast idle" choke control) than the others, and parts, if needed, ARE expensive. Jon.
Excellent help Jon. I tend to want to know exactly how things work and the specifics so you taking the time to explain this stuff to me is really appreciated. I'll use this bunch of carbs I have as mock ups and keep an eye out for the ones you recommend. Shouldn't be super hard to come across a pair and I'm not in a huge rush.
Just at work day dreaming between appointments and getting a plan together. Really enjoying messing with this model A stuff
It kinda looks like you have a 30-31 headlight bar there since the one you show has a curve in the center. If it is, that will eventually make aligning things difficult since it has a different shape.
Thanks for the heads up, I'll compare it with another one I have access to and see what we have. This one will end up dropped so maybe ill align it with a 28/9 and drop the 30/31 to fit?
The 28-9's are flat on the backside where they meet the fender. The 30-1's have little knubs around the bolt holes. The 30-1's won't sit flat on a 28-9 fender without some grinding.
Oh! Well that's easier to fix those fenders don't have any holes in them anyways so when it all goes together I'll be sure to clearance the appropriate areas I appreciate the heads up.
The Jalopy Journal
