Yeah I’d just been thinking about that this afternoon. In my head it always looked like what offy makes so I figured just buy one. But I don’t see why a flat one with both sets of holes in it wouldn’t work. Curious how thick it would have to be though
It was like the one in the pictures. 2" - 2 1/2" ? The bore transition would take more thickness than to bolts. 1/2" to 1" max. Might need to counter sink the manifold side with flat top screws.
If it were me I would probably use some 3/8” aluminum plate with counterbored holes to use socket head cap screws to mount to the manifold and then studs sticking up to mount the carb.
Pretty much what I was thinking. 3/8 would be easy enough to work with. Any thicker and I’d need to get creative or more tools. Neither are things I dislike lol
Well I spent the afternoon thinking about this sort of thing Draw threw? Blow threw? It was all over the place while my friend battled my valve cover. He tried everything but a mig set up for aluminum, which would probably work best, but it’s a super porous, dirty dirty casting that happened to be galvanized at that and it just fought the whole time. It just wanted to boil out contamination, blow threw or dance around. Thankfully it’s not real structural so I’m not super concerned we’ll get it figured out. Either way it was together enough to bolt on so I had to throw it on for a look Oh yeah buddy! Thoughts of blowers have vanished, this looks fucking rad! the master needs to come over some more and a second added but I don’t think it’ll be to much visual clutter in the end. It’ll probably come down to being fussy with air cleaners to balance it all out. yup. I just stood there and took 90 photos of the mock up lol. I’m going to use the stock intake manifold with some variety of adapter to run one of stromberg new big 97’s I think it’ll be jist the right amount of carb and I won’t have to duck with tuning dual carbs or linkage. On that note, I’m still soaking bolts in kroil trying to pry the intake from the heat riser. All I see are three bolts and none of those suckers want to move. At all. Ugh Though I did look down the carb base of the manifold and was happy to see that the majority of it is just extra material. Well, it’s probabky there to hold heat but to me it’s stuff I can cut and sculpt to look a little less like what it is. I plan on getting rid of some casting marks, numbers and just kind of smoothing it out. Not so much to make it look polished but to make it look nicer. If it gets to smoothed out in grinding stuff off it I may paint it with some sort of hammer tone paint or take a needle scaler to it all before paint. Man I’m jazzed I’m seeing this mocked up
I'm not sure about the 4 cylinder intakes but the 6s have exhaust around the bore below the carb leading to the runners. If you take much out of there you'll go through the wall. I got into it trying to fit a turbo on a 292. Not a big deal just be careful your stock intake is harder to replace than a 6 cylinder.
I guess I’ll be able to see when I get them separated but that does make since. I’m sure it’s just like the 6 just smaller. Am I correct in that it’s just three bolts that hold the manifolds to each other? I can’t see any more that seem to hold them?
It's just the three bolts or studs, cast iron, steel, heat, rust , and time. You may have to break the bolts and drill them out. Here's a cool little plate so you can put water or exhaust heat back if you need it. https://www.classicindustries.com/product/109999.html
That’s a slick plate set up but id be worried about all the shit that’s in the manifold recirculating back into the radiator. *edit: I’m assuming exhaust went directly into this cavity in the manifold and as such would be full of carbon and nasty crap Guess I could run a pipe from the header up to the plate if it really becomes an issue. I’ve been soaking the bolts in kroil every couple days for about a month. This weekend I’ll get them hot and stick a great big cheater bar on it. They’ll make a big crack nose one way or another, let’s just hope it’s in a favorable way.
Well I got out my breaker bar, took it out to the drive way and had the manifolds separated in about a minute! Two twisted out like brand new and the third snapped flush where it bolts into the exhaust manifold. Perfect! Bolted the intake back on and sat a 94 on it, stuck the Nash manifold on under it where you can really even see it after all that fuss about what it looks like. Looks like the carb should clear everything but I’m not sure I can run a frog mouth scoop like I had planned. I mocked up a cardboard tube to the measured height of one and it lands real close to the end of the master. Might run a shorter Edmunds air cleaner or similar. Looking more like a car
It’s bigger than this little corner that the car is shoved into. I actually moved the water heater and knocked down a wall to get it to fit back here. A buddy called it my hot rod nook lol
Thanks man, might mock up some Sbc headers I have on the shelf, you can only se a little of the front and back primaries and the headers I already have are pretty similar in those two spots. Maybe save me some effort if it’s all going to look the same. I did have a question for you however, the very front and back studs that my exhaust hangs on do not have even enough length to put a bolt on and I see no threads. Are they supposed to be longer and threaded or just nubs? Id believe either but nothing else on this motor has been stuck or broke so it was worth asking. It is however filthy inside and out which has me a little concerned. Will probably pull the head before I stick a new cam in it just to be safe and to see which pistons are in it.
Here's my take on the intake ,still partly complete ,,8 port head ,,had some plates cut to go for fabricated headers ,,it's looking tight ,,small alternator needed ,,sorry to hijack your thread ,,
RoddyB34, is yours an 8 port head? Are you building dividers into your intake? Tim, None of my heads had intakes or studs on them when I got them but they should have studs and nuts or bolts to seal. Studs make it easier to hang it all.
Cool I’ll weld a bolt to those two and pull them Out and replace them with new studs or bolts I do like the studs for hanging the manifold but in the back it’s pretty tight against the fire wall so I’m not sure if I can get away with a proper length stud so it may get a bolt. You think I can get away with this one 94? It’s a ford stamped aa-1 I think it says 59 on it as well so it probably Flows in that 160-180 cfm range. Seems low to me for 9/10:1 compression and a big cam but...? Maybe? Figure the carb was free from a friend and rebuild kits are cheap so if it’s not enough I’m just out the rebuild time and cost. Also after seeing the cavity under the carb base for the heat riser I think I’ll sand blast it all out and do the water heated option. Thinking about hard lining it, not a big fan of rubber hoses but I’m concerned they would rust threw sooner than later? Thoughts on that?
8 port head ,,I'm not putting dividers in at this stage ,it's a 181 engine from a boat with a new head ,,the block has rust so I'll see how it goes ,,these engines are rare in Australia ,,got to improvement over original engine ,,has 3 speed T/L to the A diff,,
Puts the carbs up to high and I’d have to lose the firewall masters but dang it if it’s not kinda growing on me
Ideally I’d like 250 cfm which is what two would get me roughly. Figure this 94 flows 160 add the second, down grade the vacuum single to the power valves because there are two carbs and I bet it would be pretty close
The Jalopy Journal
