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Projects Timm builds a model A

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Tim, Mar 8, 2016.

  1. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 7,725

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

    Haha they were just for mockup but I gotta say it's growing on me haha.

    Probably run some 750 Firestone's and have them sip'd cross wise every few inches
     
    Dannerr likes this.
  2. Tuck
    Joined: May 14, 2001
    Posts: 5,452

    Tuck
    Tech Editor
    from MINNESOTA
    1. Early Hemi Tech

    The tail lights look rad. I think sedans built in this style are my favorite.
     
    Tman and Tim like this.
  3. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 7,725

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

    @Tuck you think leave em were they are or drop them some?

    Probably going to sit and stare at it a bunch but you've got a good eye so I'd be curious to see what you think about light/plate placment
     
    Dannerr likes this.
  4. Tuck
    Joined: May 14, 2001
    Posts: 5,452

    Tuck
    Tech Editor
    from MINNESOTA
    1. Early Hemi Tech

    Thats a judgement call- stock location will look right- but moving them might look better wouldnt know unless you mocked them up lower with pics. Maybe mock them up lower and stare at them for a week. :) I stare at my shit a lot... Its all sculpture. :)

    They look great in the side shots.

    Really love this build @Tim
     
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  5. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 7,725

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

    There's no holes in the fenders so they can go anywhere but I agree the side profile looks right. I have to walk by it to leave the house or do laundry so I'll stare at it plenty
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2017
    Dannerr likes this.
  6. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 7,725

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

     
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  7. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 7,725

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

    IMG_6984.JPG Here's that photo outside of the quote so it's easier to see
     
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  8. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 7,725

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

    Waiting for diapers to dry I decided that some mocking up was needed.

    IMG_7012.JPG

    I came to the conclusion to leave the lights were they landed in that stock-ish location, and to keep the plate in the same place but with a few changes

    IMG_7010.JPG Mainly I'm going to push the license plate back but keep the existing height.

    I measured and I'm going to make the face of the license plate light line up with the back side of the tail lights when looking from the side.

    So from the back it looks the same as previous photos but from all other angles it's much better
    IMG_7013.JPG
    So I made notes on everything, that tape on the body is approximately the top of the plate and lists the measurement from the ground to the top of the plate.

    The big red line to the right of my finger on the tape is were the back of the tail lights land in that plane.

    My finger is 1.75 further back because that's how deep the license plate light is. So I'll chop the spare tire tube more or less right there parallel with the stock flange that would have the spare bolted to it.

    I'll then make a 1/4 plate ... flange I guess? That will be welded to the cut down tube.

    It will have four holes drilled and tapped into it.

    I'm going to take my license plate light/ plate bracket and cut the license plate mount arms off it and bolt it on to the 1/4 plate from the back side.

    Then the license plate will be bolted onto the front side of the 1/4 plate.

    This does/ allows a few things. 1: it lets me push the license plate up closer to the light. The gap as it comes is just enough to look like I just stuck it on there. I'm running a 1929 plate so I'm also going to be mocking this final stuff up with the actual plate. The second thing it lets me do is get the plate more under the actual light. There's a good 1/4- 1/2 inch chunk of fixture before you ever get to the light.

    This way the plate is closer vertically to the light and front to back by at least a half inch either direction.

    Minor? Maybe but if I'm cutting it up anyways I may as well make it look right.
     
    kidcampbell71, Tuck and Dannerr like this.
  9. Allow room on that backing plate for a license plate frame if you think you are going to use one
     
    Tim likes this.
  10. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 7,725

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

    I don't plan on using one but that's a good thing to think about when doing stuff like this.

    As well as how to route the light wire.

    In and out of the tube on top keeps it the cleanest but in threw the bottom lets any moisture drain. Given the slant of the tube I'm thinking I'll go in from the top and dab a little silicon or something around the holes and then make sure the bottom of the tube where it meets the body has enough gap or a little notch to let moisture drain before it hits the body
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2017
    Dannerr likes this.
  11. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 7,725

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

    Well here we go. Still battling that dang U joint seized on the driveshaft but I've got this blue wrench that should get it off. Hopeing for a good thrash of an afternoon this coming weekend. I'm trying to get in about two-four hours a week right now, it's mostly one afternoon lately so this is when having a plan comes in handy. No... less, waisted efforts.

    IMG_7037.JPG
     
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  12. Rocky
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,315

    Rocky
    Classified Editor

    I likes it, Tim. What color are Ks. 1929 plates? My Ne. '34 plates are dark green with white numbers.
     
    Tim likes this.
  13. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 7,725

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

    Black with white numbers :) same as my 46
    Plates but the 29 plates have a fatter number style
     
  14. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 7,725

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

    Alright progress! Hard fought progress but forward motion none the less.

    This U joint has been seized onnl what other wise seems to be a great rear and torque tube.

    I soaked it in kroil for about 4
    Months before today and it did nothing at all.

    We tried prying, heat,hammering swearing and in the end that got us about a quarter inch of movement.

    That meant it was bean time.

    We loaded up and went to @porknbeaner in search of a puller.

    We found one and clamped it on tight, got two hammers and drifts and shocked it a few times at the collar and eventually my giant of a friend muscled it off with the puller and a hand wrench. That took about an hour. Minus the chit chat from not seeing each other for a while it probably would have taken fifteen minutes but no one goes to see Beaner and gets out in fifteen minutes haha ;)

    I then wire brushed the shaft and the half of u joint we cut out in search of surfaces to beat on slips right on and off so I think I'm good.

    It is recommended that this is lined with 600 at gear oil/lube or cornhead lube which i think isnused on John deer tractors. Should take 3-4 oz threw the ball cover zerk.

    Pix in next post
     
  15. Rocky
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,315

    Rocky
    Classified Editor

    Benno is da man!
     
    Tim likes this.
  16. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 7,725

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

    Marks in the bell end are superficial and not as deep as they look. Should clean up easy enough.all in all about 4 hours IMG_7156.JPG IMG_7158.JPG IMG_7160.JPG IMG_7163.JPG IMG_7164.JPG IMG_7166.JPG IMG_7167.JPG IMG_7175.JPG
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2017
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  17. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 7,725

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

    IMG_7221.JPG So close! Got the spines all cleaned up and I rubbed a little oil on it, stuck my hand in the trans side and cleaned it out as best I could.

    Got it sat on some dollies and got it pretty close to position before I realized the dollies put everything about a 1/16 to high.

    I'll swap it to a floor jack and proceed when I get a chance. Hoping i have the motor where it needs to be but we're about to find out!
     
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  18. It should be greased.
    In case you didn't know, the ball outer cup/housing/thingy is supposed to have a grease nipple on the lower side, so the u-joint could be lubricated- it's one of the points on the model A lubrication chart. Thereby you also lubricate the speedometer gear on the shaft.
    It seems to me, that previous owner might have neglected that lub-point, since it looks to be that hard stuck and slightly rusted.
    Not meaning to be a know-it-all, just sharing personal experience. :)
     
  19. T&A Flathead
    Joined: Apr 28, 2007
    Posts: 1,465

    T&A Flathead
    Member

    Keep it going. Looking great.
    image.jpeg
     
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  20. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 7,725

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

    @Dannerr look back a few posts and I mentioned that ;)

    Got it under the car yesterday and it looks like I should be pretty close when it comes
    To bolting everything together. Going to try and have to torque tube bolted on and the car rolling again by Monday afternoon so my busy can stick all the mounts solid and tack the wishbone shelf together.

    If I'm lucky I'll also get the body braced for patching the sub rails.

    Working 5 minutes at a time during the week, lots of baby stuff to keep me busy.
     
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  21. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 7,725

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

    IMG_7305.JPG Well we got it back in!

    Long story short I had the U joint paired with the driveshaft but the splines weren't clocked right.

    Pulled the whole thing down, bolted the torque tube onto the trans and jacked the rear back up into the crossmember. Kept looking like it was going to bind on the front side of the spring but as it arced as we jacked it up it went in with out anymore hassle than expected.

    This brought my rear wheels forward a few inches to where it looks correct also. It never looked right to me before and I guess with the spring in the crossmember the axle can still be up to 4 inches different front to back with out the torque tube bolted to the trans because of all the things that can sit just slightly weird.

    Sloppy axle side shackle bushings didn't help.

    Either way I somehow did a motor and trans swap and got the stock torque tube to bolt up :)

    Gonna weld the motor and trans mounts solid next on the frame sides, brace the body for subrail patching, clean the frame and paint it. Put it all back together and then probably roll it back into the corner and go back to finishing some stuff on the 46 for a couple months.

    Next steps will probably be steering, then building an intake/exhaust/ valve cover adapter. Some gas tanks and sneaky caps and then... whatever comes after that I guess lol.

    Keep you posted. Hoping for some outside photos this week
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2017
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  22. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 7,725

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

    Got this brilliant idea as I was rushing out the door for work to push it outside... and then I though well that was easy enough lets turn it around and put it back nose first. IMG_7319.JPG
    Well I got about half way threw that and my zip tied on mackshift tie rod came off. It's 90 deg with no shade so I jacked the front up and stuck my trusty dollies under the front wheels and pulled it around by the frame horns and parked it here for now.

    This car should haul ass, its light enough that I can move it around with one hand most the time.

    Anyhow here's a photo of it outside
     
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  23. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 7,725

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

    Beaner came threw with some dom and hemi joints this morning. rigged it on and bumped it back into the garage.

    Thinking I'll end up with a new tie rod in the end and use some of sids 1.5 inch dropped tie rod ends. I'll ream the steering arms so I can bolt them on from the bottom and be good to go :)
    IMG_7340.JPG

    Thinking Sunday night we'll weld the motor and trans mounts in solid and tack the wishbone ball support/shelf together. If I'm lucky we'll get the body braced for patching the subrails as well.

    Then I'll blow it apart to clean and paint the chassis :)
     
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2017
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  24. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 7,725

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

    Finding moments where we can. Got the trans crossmember welded solid, the wishbone ball mount tacked together and the frame side of the motor mounts tacked.
    IMG_7692.JPG
    Now we get @porknbeaner sub rails torn out and his sedan set over the frame and then start bracing my body to patch and replace my subrails.

    Then it'll all come apart to finish Welding stuff up, cleaned sanded and painted.

    Figure if I keep repeating the plan it may happen ;) IMG_7701.JPG this shot reminded me of countless bonneville shots. Half the fenders stripped, the seats and a hubcap in a pile and a guy half under the car.

    Car some how got taller and now wants to push the doors weather stripping back when I push it threw into the garage but I know it'll come down eventually
     
  25. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 7,725

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

    I might post the time lapse video of me running over my own foot moving this damn thing around with no steering later but for now here's some photos of me turning it around and pushing it back into its corner.
    IMG_7823.JPG
    Since I had it up front I moved a fridge and a big cabinet to give me a lot more room front to back to work on the car and made it way faster to move it out of the space.
    IMG_7830.JPG
    I've decided to leave it together until I have a full mock up and blow it apart once instead of trying to do the subframe and paint the chassis before moving it back because, well 1 I did t have time, 2 I don't want to move the body more than I have to and 3 I have a feeling I'd be redoing some of it with out having mocked it all up first.
    IMG_7837.JPG Any how I'm trying to shift over to the 46 and finish the interior and some of the long list of little things that need done before the hamb drags and between all that I'll start in one making a new "to do next" list for the A IMG_7839.JPG

    I'm thinking it'll be a lot of flat plate projects. Off the top of my head I'm thinking
    1: license plate mount
    2: valve cover adapter
    3: steering wheel
    4: drilling and mounting tail lights
    5: cutting up beaners car for sub frame scraps. I think I've got a fairly solid plan for fixing mine I'll try to document that as I do it as it seems like everyone has a different opinion on how to go about it.
     
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  26. 1stGrumpy
    Joined: Jan 1, 2008
    Posts: 4,229

    1stGrumpy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I don't know how I missed your thread but subscribed now. Looks like we use some of the same pictures for inspiration.
     

    Attached Files:

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  27. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 7,725

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

    Sure did :) we'll have to get them side by side if you still have it whenever we get this on the road
     
    1stGrumpy likes this.
  28. Hey Jim, is it looking like the A is gonna make it to the HAMB drags with ya?
     
  29. Runnin shine
    Joined: Apr 12, 2013
    Posts: 2,513

    Runnin shine
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Where is Brian going to park his Chrysler?


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  30. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 7,725

    Tim
    Member
    from Raytown Mo

    Sounds like he's gonna try!

    He's only parking his rig here, I guess he'll park he Chrysler in joplin ;) that being said if there's room for my dad's 222" long lincoln there's room for anything lol
     
    Runnin shine likes this.

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