I don't understand why this is so hard to grasp. * There's a balancer with a mark on it. * There's a pointer with a scale on it. THEY DO NOT MATCH! You could or I could or gimpy could or Chevy could put a mark on the balancer- either by dropping it or by throwing a dart to pick the spot to mark it. Then we carefully create a pointer to line up with the mark. It doesn't matter where at all and It's will match and be correct until we decided to swap the parts amongst ourselves. Get it? Correct matching 305 parts If this is a 305 balancer that's correct for the year the pointer is in the wrong spot. Do you want to know the difference between a 1973 350 balancer a, 1983 350 balancer, a 1985 305 balancer and a 1995 305 balancer and a 2000 350 balancer? It's where they arbitraryly put the timing mark. That's it. They each have a different pointer to match those marks. They will swap around, fit and work perfectly in any application with the 2 parts matching.
Haven,t read the whole thread but make sure the outer ring on your harmonic balencer is not loose, roating or flexing
Not getting a hit on that code. If memory serves me, the vans in that era had the tab nearly on the top, while cars and trucks didn't. If the damper began life on a van, you have the wrong timing tab.
It's been mentioned already and we will get there. That's where a piston stop test becomes important.
I don't know either, Vic 305's came out in 76, right? Timing marks went to 12 o'clock in 76, right? Mr. G makes a timing tab for 305's (12 o'clock timing). The o/p says he checked it with a stop, and it's off. So either he can change the tab , or time it like I said earlier. What's the problem then? Good thing we're not working on the healthcare act.
Slightly not on topic, but i've always been curious what the small cylinder, "pen holder" thing on the stock timing tabs are for?
Yes, But looking behind the water pump can be a bitch sometimes. Could do the piston stop test, (should do it anyfuckingway) make the marks at current pointer. Split the marks and define A NEW TDC mark that corresponds to the driver side pointer. Now the timing like can be of some use.
D6B is a 1981 305/145 horsepower. But, as mentioned above you do not have the correct timing tab. The correct one is shown in 31Vicky's picture titled Correct matching 305 parts. You have two options, either replace the tab as suggested, or using the positive stop method establish a new TDC mark that aligns with the tab you already have. Looks like we were typing together^^^
Chevy moved the astray, It holds your cigarette so your hands are free and smoke doesn't get in your eyes
It's for a mag pickup used by the oscilloscopes of that time period (pre-computerized). You could monitor the timing, hands free. (so you could hold a cancer stick in one hand, and hit buttons with the other...of course)
Ha! They won't even state "the problem" out loud, they'll never come up with a solution to correct the problem.
Without getting too political, a hundred years ago H.L. Mencken said, it's Democrats job to fuck shit up, it's Republicans job to make sure it stays that way.
That should be a bumper sticker. Once the shift was made to a debt based economy everything went screwy
I went to the combustion top dead center with piston stop. Then I keep turning clockwise to top dead center on the exhaust with piston stop and mark the center distance between the two on the new tab at zero point ? This gives me a better loc to use the test light. Sorry first time doing this. Thanks for the help
If you were able to keep moving CW, then you would have had to remove the stop. It's not going to go back in the exact same position that way. You need to go CCW after first contact, until it hits again. In between those marks is true TDC. ...If I understand what you are saying. You can do it on the intake stroke , or the exhaust. Doesn't matter.
Just advance your timing till it pings on centrifical and then reduce it a couple. Don't need no stink'n numbers.
Right! Then put on your leather jacket, comb your d.a., fill it with 260, and cruise down to the burger joint and look for some action.
OK, from square 1: There are two different harmonic dampers for the 305, both are 6 3/4" diameter. The timing marks are 30 degrees apart on the different dampers. You say that the engine runs smooth at 40 degrees now. So if there are 30 degrees difference then you're probably right at 10 degrees advanced (40 - 30 = 10. I know this because I went over it with my grand daughter last night. ) So you can figure your advance this way or you can remark your mark on the damper. According to the info in my post above, the new TDC mark should be 1.7671 from the original mark. That's 1 3/4" in my world for this application. BTW If the ring has slipped on the damper, you need a different damper. The ring is on it's way to coming off.
You can test this theory, almost for free. Clean the damper on the surface, ahead clockwise (viewed from the front). Cut a piece of tape that is 1-3/4" long. Apply it with the left edge right up to the groove in the damper, and the other edge heading clockwise (again, viewed from the front). This will simulate another timing mark 30º off from the current one. Fire it up, and see where your timing is, based on the edge of the tape. If it is about 6-10º-ish, then you just have the wrong timing tab. If this is the case, and you are cheap and lazy, make a straight, clean scratch at the edge of that tape. Use that as your new timing mark.
What wrong with a piston stop test to verify the exact location of TDC? It runs good where it runs good, it don't care if you calculated or are confused or are correct. That engine don't care what the timing light says, if it's telling stories or the truth. If the timing light numbers are important for the tuner, then it's imperative to verify the starting point. It's the equivalent of a machinist measuring without first zeroing his equipment
Nothing. Just trying to prove a point to the OP. By now, if it were mine, I would have strained to pony-up the $7 to put the proper timing tab on, if I were not confident with my butt dyno.
I'm sorry but I have a hard time decoding what you are actually saying. Small block Chevy cam gear timing marks need to be straight up and down from each other with the mark on the crank gear at 12 O'Clock straight up and the mark on the gear at either 12 O'Clock if you have #1 on the compression stroke at TDC and at 6 O'Clock if you have #6 on the compression stroke at TDC. Both will be at TDC and when you turn the crank one exact turn the opposite cylinder will be at the top of the compression stroke and the other one will be at the top of the exhaust stroke. I'm assuming that you have it correct. The second photo is the CORRECT FRIGGING TIMIING COVER FOR AN 80 305. Gimpy showed you the correct timing tab location in his posts, you have to look straight down behind the water pump to check the timing on those engines and the cute chrome timing tab you have is your problem., It is in the wrong place. Don't let the bullshit artists tell you that that tab wasn't on earlier engines either as it was on the 78 350 that I had in my 71 and I fought the same exact battle you are but my foolishness was because I put the short 71 water pump on it and finally had to swap to a long pump so I could set the timing. That tube is so you can put the timing probe from a scope in it to check the timing with the scope. The simple fix is toss that chrome stuff in the junk and dig out the correct timing cover that came off it and put it back on.
If George Thorogood drove a chevy... So I go down the streets Down to my good friend's house I said "Look man, I'm broken down outdoors, you know Can I stay wicha maybe a couple days until I figure out this SBC timing? He said "Uh, let me go and ask my wife" He come out of the house I could see in his face I knowed it was "no" He said "I don't know man, ah she kinda funny, an' all" I said "I know, everybody funny, now you funny too" I'm not saying nothing more about timing, except maybe that this old thread was perfectly timed.
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