So I’m running gm metric front calipers, rubber hose and boxed stock frame I can’t seem to figure out what I need for through the frame fittings, most are AN on one side, or the heidts fittings say they are not maybe for flared tube to be inserted the ones pictured I’m told will not work. I want to run standard flared brake line on one side and the female rubber hose on the other. Any help fellas?
It's one of those things that you think would have been fixed by now, but you are caught between the street rod and traditional worlds. The ones you pictured are 1/8" pipe thread both ends, so will only work if you can live with an pipe to flare adapter on each end. I gave up on the through frame thing and made a 90 degree bracked off the bottom of the frame to support a inverted flare to inverted flare connector.
NoT ideal, but you could use those with the needed adapter on each side. Or , don’t pass thru the frame just go over or under. Doesn’t look the best but works
I think under the frame is best. You only have one joint, and you can see it clearly to check for leaks.
I can’t go under the frame, my wishbones would hit the line, I already have it on top right now and really don’t like the look. Only other option I see is to go freakin braided line to the caliper but was trying to avoid that
One option you have. Drill a 1/2" thru the frame, run a piece of 1/2" tube thru the frame & weld it. Then on the outside of the frame put a weld on brake hose bracket above the hole/tube. Then just run a standard steel brake line thru the 1/2 welded tube and hose bracket then screw it down to the rubber brake hose, pull it back little into hose bracket and put c clip on and your done. Thats my plan for the front of my 31 tudor. Don't like the idea or looks of all the adapters needed the other way.
I've done 100's of customer chassis with weld in steel thru the frame fittings with no problems to date. You are right, it gives you an extra joint to leak but I recommend a good LockTite hydraulic sealer on the 1/8th pipe threads so we get a good seal. Always helps to use quality fittings. On many of the chassis we do we cover the braided line with shrink tube to get a black line. Ain't perfect but it works.
Adapt the steel brake line to AN and run an thru the frame with AN lines to the calipers. You can get AN banjo fittings. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
the point was I didn’t want to run AN/steel braided caliper hoses though. Id Like to run the standard rubber hose
Paint that line black and you’ll forget about it in a few days. The boxed frame that’s completely sealed leaves some unique obstacles to get around. break the seal with a big enough finger hole and standard hose clip or run the weld in units with NPT. ( they can catch air) or jump the obstacles best you can. Wishbones close enough that would smash a brake line is probably another problem for a different thread. FWIW, I run them under the frame, not many folks get down that far to look there.
I wanted to run my front brake lines through the frame and searched for a set of through the frame bulkhead fittings. Everything seemed to be equipped with #3 AN fittings on the brake hose end. I finally found a set from SSBC with 1/8” NPT thread on both ends so that I could use NPT to inverted flare fittings using my rubber brake hoses. I took my hoses to the local brake shop and had the female frame tab fittings cut off and some 3/8-24 male swivel ends crimped on. It all worked out nicely and now I’m ready to run the brake lines.
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