I'm a 32 year old father of 3. I have a 64' StarChief built as a traditional Kustom. Bought my wife a 59' Dodge Coronet as an anniversary gift. A few months ago I found a deal on Craigslist for some model T parts. I went and bought them. Ended up being a 27' coupe a 27' Sedan completely separated in pieces, an A frame some stock A suspension and a ton of randoms. Sold the coupe and started my first real Rod build. The plan is very traditional and period Hot Rod. Been building a 283 as period as I can. Will be backed by a Saginaw 3spd and a 57' ford 9". Enough of the words here's some pics. Please feel free to ask questions and give your ideas n such. I can take criticism just not assholism. I started with an A axle. I then found a 37' axle with custom spindles n steering that was on a vintage sprint car. I then learned it wasn't a good match for a suicide front end. I then found a 33' axle paired it with 37' spindles and steering and acquired some 40' Ford Bendix brakes I believe the bones are early 40s. A pointless speedway 2" drop x member. A speedway 29" front spring. I had to mix a couple rear ends together to get what I have now. But housing is a 57' ford 9". With early 40s ford split bones made into a 2 link set up. A med arch rear spring above the axle. These wheels are mockup only. I have located some 40' ford wheels plan on using skinny bias plys, big and littles. Set the body on tonight. Big Night!! Thinking a 6" or so chop. Will wait till car is close to done to chop it. That's it for now.
2 link rear? What are you going to use for a torque arm or 3rd/4th link? I realize you aren't done but you sure can't run it like that.
Drive train is a early 60s 283 punched .40. L79 cam camel hump heads, aluminum intake with oil fill tube. Holley 500 2bbl with offy adapter. Saginaw 3spd to a 1957/1964 ford 9"
Not %100 on how I'm going to finish the link set up. Gut idea has been to run a short dog bone link from top of arm to top of axle. Or a 3rd link on top of pumpkin. Open to ideas.
I'm sure I will make different mounts when I actually mount them. Got bored waiting of a frame boxing kit, thought I'd mount them to see if I will like them. Still unsure
Let this sit idle to damn long. Got a few updates. Picked up a few vintage pieces for my 283. And got it all stuck together. Took a couple try's, put a few Pistons in backwards the first time I boxed in the frame and stitched in my 283, mounted my radiator and grille. I was told my camel hump heads will be finished tomorrow. I will hopefully get the rest of the motor assembled this week and pick up my bell housing, clutch and flywheel. Had to set the body back on! Going to make some body mounts and work on my reversed corvair steering box before I finish frame, drivetrain, and brakes.
Motor is almost complete. Swapped out radiator for a much smaller one. And made a stainless fuel filter bracket. Got a long road ahead.
A short top link will, equal. Lot of pinion angle change as the suspension cycles. Given the amount of distance from the axle centreline to your lower mounts you might want to look into a top link that is as long as the bottoms and it parallel to the ground. There are 3/4 link calculators on line you can use. Shoot for a little bit of "squat" if you want it to hook up. Or "Jack" if you wanna just smoke the tires.
I figured there will be very little pinion angle change with a buggy spring. This suspension will only move a couple inches. (It's pretty stiff). Would be different I agree with an air ride set up.
Great looking project. The ponyiac is cool also but the boss has the chit. I started working on my '59 D500 last night. I'll be following your progress.
You might want to go back and finish your suspension before you get too busy on the other stuff. The first order of business might be to check the caster. By mounting the radius rods high you dial out most of the built-in caster and encourage spring bind. Had this problem on my coupester from previous builder's lack of suspension knowledge. And, a long center torque arm and panhard bar will allow you to use side radius rods you have, just drop the ends down to match the relocated fronts to visually balance the car from the side. All of this is thoroughly covered here on the HAMB but you have to look for it. Makes all the difference between a visually pleasing and pleasant driving car and one that appears awkward and drives badly. Good luck, nice project.
I plan on going back and finishing the suspension, frame, and drive train. Before I continue to far. But I wanted to make a couple body mounts, so I could also do steering, before I done stamp the chassis. I admit I have a.d.d. So I jump around a lot , but it keeps it fun and interesting.
Check your front axle caster. If it's okay - which I doubt unless you've modified the radius rods - you can leave them alone. But...they will look awkward when the car is finished unless you lower the suspension radically later on. Chances are you will need to lower the ends of the front radius rods to bring the caster into the correct range - somewhere around 7 to 9 degrees, though opinions vary a bit on this. Or, you can cut and weld the radius rods at the front to accomplish the caster change while retaining the current mounting points. But why do this when the angle will look awkward. Once you've got the front radius rods the way you want them, change the rear radius rod mounts to match so that they appear at a mirror angle to the fronts when viewed from the side. The pinion angle will be set with the adjustable center torque arm so just adjust the radius rods to match. Everything in the rear must be of compatible lengths so as not to bind so do some studying before you start cutting and welding. The panhard bar will keep the axle from walking side to side. And...as a general rule of thumb, the radius rods should be as close to parallel with the ground as possible for best visual appearance. Again, tastes vary on this. Your best bet is to look at A LOT of hot rods with exposed front and rear radius rods. You will see what I'm talking about as far as visual esthetics. Good luck!
nothing wrong with dim headlights. Ha. Spent the day yesterday fixing door latches and handles. Open and close like a dream. Can't figure out how to load my video
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