The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by TexasHardcore, May 8, 2006.
I like what you did with your tail lights.
We have a 66 Long Bed in the shop right now. The truck is 85% done and its time to install the bedwood. We purchased a curly maple kit with predrilled holes which we then finished. Low and behold the damn thing doesn't seem to fit. The outside pieces bolt in no problem but the two center boards overlap by more than a 1/4"
Now I know there are two diffrent bedwood kits for the 60-60 C- Series. 60-62 and 63-66. Can anyone tell me what the difference is between the two? I'm wondering if they shipped us the wrong kit
My 66' work in progress!
Had to go see this and find out, why? Turns out it was a rusted hulk, with a competely rotted out drip rail and rusted-through roof panel. He went way too far putting a stall trans and such in it, and the whole underside support system was so far gone as to be dangerous on curves, but God help me I kinda liked it.
From the site above it looks like the boards were all the same widths for the mentioned years. I used these measurements for my 64 and it matched my old wood.
the 60-62 had a wider frame, so the bolt holes are all in different spots.
Heres my patina 63
You coming to the Spin Out in Brimfield ,OH Saturday? Check my posts.
Tim & Scott were telling me about it. Ill check on your post for date & time.
Getting close to being road worthy. 15" wheels, 3" drop front and rear, just need to install the new bed wood and fix the demons controlling the horn....
Just picked this up this thread is awesome looking to do same things with this awesome thread!
What did you paint that with? Looks like the perfect matte / suede.
I'm pretty sure markeb01 used john deere, blitz black on his truck.
I'm looking to bag the rear of my truck and want to lay it pretty much on or close to the ground. Any suggestions on how much of a notch I'll need? I put 4 inch drop coils on and hate that I can't hit a switch to get into a driveway with ease. Any tips are much appreciated.
Yeah I'd like to do the same
Here's the latest pic of my '64 after I got the rear end narrowed, the rear coils and drop spindles installed, and bolted up the ET Super wheels that I restored.
6" notch will just about do what you want, along with 3" blocks between trailing arms and rearend.
I believe that blocks between trailing arms and the axle pads will give you scrub line problems. Attached is my solution to get the back end down. It actually was too low and my tires scrubbed the bed, so I had to add blocks between the tops of the springs and the new crossmember. If you have the skills to notch the frame, this is a piece of cake. Just substitute bags for the springs.
flat n low, what size tire and rims are you running on the rear. I love how it is filled to the max.
I finally got some time to tinker with my C10 this weekend. Found lots of rust & discovered the fuel tank is garbage.
another shot of my 66, tubbed with 29×15.50 rears. Daily driver w/ ps, pdb, tilt, 5 lug.
Sent from my DROID device using the TJJ mobile app
There are no issues at all with 2" blocks, and borderline scrubline limit with 3". I've done many, as well as many friends. Trucks that are laid out.
Id say over 15 C10s done between myself and friends. Pretty common practice.
I had fours's on mine with 15" wheels and had scrub problems. U bolts hung low. Go with a taller wheel, but then you add ride height. Best to do a little measuring to make sure first. Also, my blocks were wedge shape to compensate for altered pinion angle.
I've never seen rust behind the door on the B pillar before. You've got your hands full. But it can be done. Best wishes!
not a chevy but my old 61 gmc truck had a 305 v6 and 4speed i painted the moon on the doors wanted it to look like a old push truck or workshop truck now has a 350 and 3 speed
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The wheels are ET Supers, 15x8.5 with a 3" backspace. The tires are BFG Long Trail Touring in 265/70-15, which is about the biggest 15" tire you can find that's inexpensive and has a non-truck tread and a smooth sidewall. The rear end is a 12-bolt from a '79 Suburban that's been narrowed a total of 3 5/8", with Moser housing ends (large Ford bearings, eliminates the c-clips) and Strange Engineering custom axles.
Nailed the stance, very sweet.
Yea, the rust there is really odd to me, too. There's some on the passenger side as well, but its not nearly as bad as the drivers side is.
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