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Projects The modified crossmember is done. .

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by PetesPonies, May 26, 2020.

  1. PetesPonies
    Joined: Nov 6, 2007
    Posts: 402

    PetesPonies
    Member
    from Maryland

    On my '30. This is the crossmember I sectioned to lower the front. I welded on brackets to mount the spring, doing away with u-bolts. Now I can finish the axle and mount it to at least have the front on wheels. Then to the rear.

    crossmember spring mount.jpg
     
    dana barlow likes this.
  2. Just my opinion, but I would think you need 2 mounting points instead of just one.
     
  3. PetesPonies
    Joined: Nov 6, 2007
    Posts: 402

    PetesPonies
    Member
    from Maryland

    Well there is one on each side of the crossmember.
     
  4. Yes, I assumed that. But its still just one mounting point is my concern. I hope it is sufficient.
     
    dirt t likes this.
  5. PetesPonies
    Joined: Nov 6, 2007
    Posts: 402

    PetesPonies
    Member
    from Maryland

  6. ydopen
    Joined: Mar 14, 2010
    Posts: 249

    ydopen
    Member

    Does not look safe to me. Not much holding that spring on going over a bump at 70.

    John
     
  7. 31Apickup
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 3,589

    31Apickup
    Member

    Really should have two spaced similarity as the original u bolts. I expect you’ll get some side to side rocking of the spring and a fatigue failure of the mount over time.


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  8. birdman1
    Joined: Dec 6, 2012
    Posts: 1,678

    birdman1
    Member

    If it ever breaks a leaf it may be better to have two more bolts holding it
     
    irishsteve likes this.
  9. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    IMO... that will rock left to right with only one bolt...
    IMO... the 2 bolts spaced apart create kind of a quarter elliptical spring on each side, lets them work as independently as a straight axle can...
    IMO... with only one bolt the spring can work like a teeter-totter...
    .
    starting over with another crossmember is not a crazy starting cost... repeat your work but with 4 studs instead of 2...
    I would use screw in studs as welded bolt will go "pinnnng" in the night...
    I would set it up with rugged set screws so the studs stay home...tight.
    not picking it apart... just my $0.02.
     
    alanp561 and anthony myrick like this.
  10. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 10,489

    krylon32
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Nebraska
    1. Central Nebraska H.A.M.B.

    I've used 100's of the spring clamp from Pete & Jake's like the one in the picture on customer chassis with no problems. While it is held on with 2 bolts the bottom plate is as wide as a u bolt spring plate so there's no teeter tooter effect. To my knowledge I've never had one break. I use it because it's a clean installation and it clears some of the radiators with a deeper tank.
     
  11. badshifter
    Joined: Apr 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,607

    badshifter
    Member

    What is this? Where do the bolts go?


    IMG_2738.JPG
     
    X38 likes this.
  12. Looks like a bolt into a real shallow blind thread.???
     
  13. Ford was cheap. If it could be done cheaply and work, Henry did it
    He used 2 U bolts.

    Update:
    I was correct about Ford being cheap.
    Incorrect in the sentiment of this comment.
    I have installed the P&J 2 bolt spring plate. No known issues.
    The OP has done a more artistic version.
    The welded stud would be the only concern.
     
    Last edited: May 28, 2020
    flatford39 and 56don like this.
  14. PetesPonies
    Joined: Nov 6, 2007
    Posts: 402

    PetesPonies
    Member
    from Maryland

  15. PetesPonies
    Joined: Nov 6, 2007
    Posts: 402

    PetesPonies
    Member
    from Maryland

    Right, cheap meant fast too. This isn't easily installed like a ubolt. This takes time.
     
  16. PetesPonies
    Joined: Nov 6, 2007
    Posts: 402

    PetesPonies
    Member
    from Maryland

    LOL no . .the bolt is welded in.
     
  17. PetesPonies
    Joined: Nov 6, 2007
    Posts: 402

    PetesPonies
    Member
    from Maryland

    Thanks
     
  18. PetesPonies
    Joined: Nov 6, 2007
    Posts: 402

    PetesPonies
    Member
    from Maryland

    And how is this welded bolt going to go ping in the night?
     

    Attached Files:

  19. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    The molecular combination and heat treating give the bolt strength,
    when you weld it you throw everything out the window...
    torque and time will snap them and not just when you hit a bump...
    just sitting there and time runs out "pinnnng" … they snap off...
    how hot, how long, how quick to cool, what you cool it with all determine its strenth...
    you see metal crack right beside the welds in stuff...
    I don't have the knowledge to quote particulars in metal fatigue...
    ask the guys here, there are some sharp cookies tuned in …
     
  20. PetesPonies
    Joined: Nov 6, 2007
    Posts: 402

    PetesPonies
    Member
    from Maryland

    Not knowing how I did it, then???
     
  21. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    Maybe run it by pete and jake's, chassis engineering or posies …
    it would save lots of money by using fewer top plates, nuts, washers and bolts …
    might get you a fat residual check...
     
  22. Jmountainjr
    Joined: Dec 29, 2006
    Posts: 1,868

    Jmountainjr
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    In my opinion your issue is more about execution than concept. The Pete & Jake's and Welder Series spring clamps have been around for some time and used in many builds for a number of reasons. Both have thick tabs to Weld to the crossmember and then the lower plate is bolted on using conventional bolts. That's not what I see in your photos. Since it's a critical part of your suspension, I would rethink your execution.
     
    rpm56, Blues4U and X38 like this.
  23. flatheadpete
    Joined: Oct 29, 2003
    Posts: 10,634

    flatheadpete
    Member
    from Burton, MI

    That scares me...
     
    X38 likes this.
  24. so the thoughts here are both bolts will break from fatigue the plate will fall off and a bump will cause the car frame to bounce up over the pin, the spring will slide/drop out of channel and the car will loose control and crash??
     
  25. brady1929
    Joined: Sep 30, 2006
    Posts: 9,590

    brady1929
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    There are a lot of very experienced guys on here. Please listen to what they are telling you. I wouldn't do that either.
     
    31Apickup and X38 like this.
  26. I need to retract my statement.
    I totally forgot about the Pete and Jake 2 bolt spring plates I installed.
    Don’t think they ever had an issue.
    Sorry for the brain fart.
    However I understand some questioning the welded stud
     
    Last edited: May 28, 2020
    tb33anda3rd likes this.
  27. I don't know if that idea was the brainchild of an engineer or a hot rodder but I am just saying my personal opinion is that to me it doesn't look sufficient for two bolts to secure the front suspension. We all have opinions.
    I hope you never have a problem with it.:)
     
    PetesPonies likes this.
  28. PetesPonies
    Joined: Nov 6, 2007
    Posts: 402

    PetesPonies
    Member
    from Maryland

    I used their kit. You don't understand what you are seeing.
     
  29. PetesPonies
    Joined: Nov 6, 2007
    Posts: 402

    PetesPonies
    Member
    from Maryland

    Its the bolt that is welded over so it doesn't show. I'm not against removing it and using another bolt if needed. But it never was over heated. The build up was done around the bolt, then connected to the bolt. The bolt never got hot enough that your bare hand couldn't hold the threads. It wasn't done haphazardly . but no one asked how I did it :)
     
  30. PetesPonies
    Joined: Nov 6, 2007
    Posts: 402

    PetesPonies
    Member
    from Maryland

    I gue
    I guess ??
     

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