Ok. That's a pretty skinny gap. I wouldn't expect that to cause problems of this sort. (For reference, my daily driver is an off-topic supercharged vehicle, and the stock plug gap in that is 0.054, although the ignition is much more advanced.) The suggestion of widening up the gap is a good one. If the problem gets worse at a wider gap, then it suggests that it does really originate in the ignition. No change, and it suggests it's a fuel or mechanical problem.
Hackman has his T Coupe for sale in the HAMB classified. I guess you will have to buy it to find out if he got his miss sorted out.
Seems few of these problems ever get a follow up post. What good are questions posts if they never come back and say what they found wrong?
. I have to buy it? They are of no use, none what so ever. Sometimes I go searching the net when weird things show up and I find bunches of threads scattered along the interweb with no follow ups. It's useless to those searching later and someone is paying for the bandwidth that leads to nowhere.
When you buy it, I'm sure everyone would like to know what you found out about the cause of the miss.
Yes i see - this idea of yours presents in your mind as the most logical way to find out. That says a lot doesn't it?
Wow I can't believe I didn't update this! Sorry about that guys. The wedding chaos kind of had my mind full. The problem ended up being an induction problem. I had an old Iron 4 barrel manifold and an AFB available to try out just for shits. Its a pretty easy swap on a hemi so I figured it couldn't hurt. Long story short, it cleared right up. It even seemed to have way more power. I had to bring my buddy's stuff back, so the 2 pot intake is back on the car now. I went through both carbs and couldn't find anything wrong with them. I changed both power valves and it seems better. Once it warms up to operating temp, it will almost completely go away. My guess is that it has a fuel distribution issue that I cannot pinpoint. Maybe the single plane is to blame? I really don't know what else to do except go with a dual plane. Its frustrating that's for sure. As far as the car being for sale, its a matter of money or something more practical for my family to use. Any really interested in the car has been informed of the situation. I'm not out to bone anyone. I have even offered to sell the car as a roller or just less the engine. I love the car and drive it often but I have to do what I have to do. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I had something like this on my boat. Turned out to be a plugged jet in the carburetor. Do you have another set of carbs available to try?
Now take the iron 1x4 to your favorite milling machine and open the throttle bores to match the Holley base. The easy way is to clean the manifold, bolt down a 3/8" adapter and bore thru the adapter and the manifold. You now have an even better 1x4. The oem dual plane is a damn fine design and a 780 Holley makes it even better. Yes. this even works with an afb. .
73RR, sounds like a plan to me. This engine is actually destined for a full custom f-1 truck that is in the works and is going to have a single 4 intake. I couldn't believe how much better it ran with the 4bbl on it. It was like night and day! Hack Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
As much as I enjoy the 'look' of multiples, a single, just very simply, works better. And, there is no shortage of sizes/styles of carbs to choose from. If nothing else, I am getting old and lazy and messing with only one carb suits me just fine... We started boring the manifolds many years ago and haven't looked back. (In fact, only when required by a customer do we go to an alum 1x4 or 2x4.) We use the tried and true Holley 3310, or variant, for just about all basic hotrod 331-354-392 rebuilds. The larger 850 types and even the old 950/1050 3-bbl have been on more serious assemblies. Performance is outstanding. .
The Jalopy Journal
