Register now to get rid of these ads!

Projects The bucket of ugly! A de-uglifying thread...

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by need louvers ?, Aug 14, 2013.

  1. gonzo
    Joined: Dec 24, 2003
    Posts: 1,652

    gonzo
    Member

    Here's where I'm at. I'm about to cut the front crossmember out of my T Bucket project to install a model a unit. I'm hoping this will tighten up the wheel base a little more and make it look less stretched out. I've got bigger tires on order for the rear right now so try to ignore that, but what do you guys think, is it worth the effort?
    I know it's tough to tell from the pictured but the top is how it's set up now and the bottom is where the front axle would be if I change it (approximately).

    E0BF3176-8C8E-4475-9FE9-C7CE749046BF.jpeg
    772A23BB-ABE9-41D1-A5FE-BB867938BBBD.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2020
    kevinrevin, loudbang, brEad and 2 others like this.
  2. gonzo
    Joined: Dec 24, 2003
    Posts: 1,652

    gonzo
    Member

    Here's a few more. First two are as it sits now and the second two are about where it would be if I move it. Wheel base would go from about 97" to 93".

    715A5D05-8B66-42E8-8472-96DE0141C682.jpeg E3353408-22CC-401A-B4CE-07FAB5D25257.jpeg F3417358-2EAD-4313-9EE9-10646480EE17.jpeg E615E41C-E9E7-4CAF-BAB4-0FC57342DD82.jpeg
     
  3. Gearhead Graphics
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 3,270

    Gearhead Graphics
    Member
    from Denver Co

    Gonzo, the length is fine as is. Tucked looks cool, but also ends up raising the car, which isnt as cool
     
    loudbang, Just Gary and gonzo like this.
  4. AmishMike
    Joined: Mar 27, 2014
    Posts: 413

    AmishMike
    Member

    May be the photo but head on pic looks like steering Ackermann way off. Should google it then can do quick measure on your car
     
    loudbang likes this.
  5. Put the distributor close to the firewall and the radiator close to the fan; if any excess length, shorten the rails. Then put the spring on top the axle and build a new Z'd perch to get it back lower. Lot easier to change up stuff at this stage than later.
     
  6. Ackermann looks ok, just the angle the pic is taken from. Please don't paint yourself into a corner with the front end and leave no room for proper functioning steering, it happens way to often. JW
     
    chryslerfan55 and loudbang like this.
  7. What kind of steering problems have you come across?
     
    loudbang likes this.
  8. I have seen so many T Buckets at shows where the chassis or the spring and even the radiator shell have been where the tie rod needed to be. Some put the Tie rod out front to cure it making a whole new problem. Not saying that will happen here but just saying. I know correct Ackermann can be got if you put the tie rod out front but in many cases the brake and wheel choice inhibits this. JW
     
    chryslerfan55 and loudbang like this.
  9. This pic is NOT to do with the tie rod but of the bad choice of components. Check out how bad the scrub point is and all weight is on the tip of the stub axle. JW
    [​IMG]
     
    chryslerfan55 and loudbang like this.
  10. gonzo
    Joined: Dec 24, 2003
    Posts: 1,652

    gonzo
    Member

    @26 T Ford RPU I'm not sure we're talking about the same thing but I'll keep that info in mind.
    I ordered up the A crossmember and may install it this weekend. If that doesn't have the desired affect I'll get a spring over dropped axle set up to pull it in further. Thanks for the input guys.
     
    chryslerfan55, pitman and loudbang like this.
  11. I think we are, that pic is just one i found i my albums and just posted it up. Was on a Bucket i saw at a show. JW
     
    pitman and loudbang like this.
  12. @gonzo What is the wheelbase now? I had built one at 91" with no bed, and two with beds, one at 95" and another at 102". The 95" set up nice while the 102" was too long.
     
    chryslerfan55 and loudbang like this.
  13. gonzo
    Joined: Dec 24, 2003
    Posts: 1,652

    gonzo
    Member

    It's currently about 97", will be 94" with a Model A crossmember and would be about 91" with a spring over axle and Model A crossmember.
     
    chryslerfan55, loudbang and RICH B like this.
  14. gonzo
    Joined: Dec 24, 2003
    Posts: 1,652

    gonzo
    Member

    E33CCD7A-A641-4C30-BE39-9A70883B9E59.jpeg C849616C-49EA-4A68-926B-2517D1FDD190.jpeg
    no turning back now.
     
  15. Dick Stevens
    Joined: Aug 7, 2012
    Posts: 2,719

    Dick Stevens
    Member

    chryslerfan55, RodStRace and loudbang like this.
  16. gonzo
    Joined: Dec 24, 2003
    Posts: 1,652

    gonzo
    Member

  17. Looks very good!! Are keeping the tube axle? JW
     
    chryslerfan55 and loudbang like this.
  18. gonzo
    Joined: Dec 24, 2003
    Posts: 1,652

    gonzo
    Member

    I am. If I was starting from scratch I probably would've just put a dropped axle in it but now that I've changed the hairpin mounts and crossmember to work with what I've got I think I'll keep it. This is supposed to be a low buck build and I'm trying to use as much stuff off of the project I bought as I can to keep the cost down.
     
  19. I do like the look of them but with split bones and hairpins they turn into a big anti sway bar and with the same on the rear things become very rigid. Gary (Steel Rebel RIP) had the same setup on his T and said he had no issues, that i cant see but it may be OK. JW
     
    chryslerfan55 and loudbang like this.
  20. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 2,243

    RodStRace
    Member

    gonzo t.jpeg Since this thread started with pointers about getting these cars looking 'right', may I point out something that IMHO could be better?

    The radiator top should flow with the front of the cowl, not the back where the windshield sits.
    Again, this is an observation of an armchair q'back...
    You may simply be holding the rad shell in place and will move it down later, but just wanted to comment on that visual line...
    BTW, the OP (Chip) mentions this on the first page of this thread in post #9 and again in post #183
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2020
  21. gonzo
    Joined: Dec 24, 2003
    Posts: 1,652

    gonzo
    Member

    You're 100% right on that. I will be moving it down in the future. Right now it's just propped up on the crossmember, I'm toying with the idea of trimming some material off the bottom (which is an old poorly done repair anyways) and moving it forward as well as down.
     
  22. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 2,243

    RodStRace
    Member

    Good to hear!
    I'd get the mechanical sorted as well as possible first, then worry about the trim.
    In this case, get a radiator that will 1. cool your drivetrain, 2. fit within the limitations of the frame width and the planned height, 3. get it mounted properly, THEN worry about fitting the shell.

    IIRC, Chip showed his radiator mounting in this thread too, but after the first few pages I didn't find it.
    EDIT: Post #s 526 (rad description and part number) and 585 (install w/pics).
    Not a bad thing to go back and review a few hundred pages o_O when you are building, if only to make sure you look at the pics and firm up some options before they are done for real.
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2020
    loudbang and chryslerfan55 like this.
  23. lake_harley
    Joined: Jun 4, 2017
    Posts: 809

    lake_harley
    Member

    I like the direction it's going. I like short wheelbase T's, like.....this......:)

    img521.jpg

    Tweety Pie is one of my all time favorite hot rods.

    Lynn
     
    GuyW, loudbang, gonzo and 2 others like this.
  24. gonzo
    Joined: Dec 24, 2003
    Posts: 1,652

    gonzo
    Member

    New rear tires installed.
    B6E48CCC-776F-46E5-AF8A-EE5C2476F5C1.jpeg
    AB9C84CE-6AB5-441C-8CD5-83F4987B1D52.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2020
    HunterYJ, Tim, Driver50x and 9 others like this.
  25. Really liking the look. JW
     
    loudbang, gonzo and chryslerfan55 like this.
  26. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 2,243

    RodStRace
    Member

    Really liking how this project is shaping up!

    ...and another ad to get the juices flowing
    http://davidsclassiccars.com/ford/401336-1960s-era-t-bucket-project-1923-ford.html

    EDIT: I haven't priced real magnesium wheels in a while, but between those and the steel body (if it's actually there, not just putty), I'd say it's a very good deal. Especially for someone who wants a real HAMB era project. Seems it was listed on Ebay last month but is gone now.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2020
  27. FYI just back from the 1st NZ T Bucket nationals just thought I'd post
    t nationals 20.jpg
     
    GuyW, loudbang, Tim and 8 others like this.
  28. gonzo
    Joined: Dec 24, 2003
    Posts: 1,652

    gonzo
    Member

    That is so cool!
     
    loudbang, bchctybob and chryslerfan55 like this.
  29. Thats super cool, Graham, was thinking just the other day about that event. I recognize a few in the group.:cool::cool: JW
     
    loudbang likes this.
  30. 2OLD2FAST
    Joined: Feb 3, 2010
    Posts: 2,009

    2OLD2FAST
    Member
    from illinois

    Hell you should be very proud , thats about the same number the N.T.B.A. can muster for their national event ....well done !!
     
    chryslerfan55 and loudbang like this.

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2020 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.