The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by need louvers ?, Aug 14, 2013.
And naturally, now that I'm almost done, I found this....
A better way is to place the cut pieces of tube between two pieces of plywood and roll them, that gets them real straight. I just used my tummy and eyeballed mine and used my axle stands and thumb for bends. JW
When he was done shoving that brake line through the 1/2" PVC it didn't look very straight to me
It came out no straighter than he had to make it to go through. JW
It's kind of hilarious the "tech" that some guys film and put out there.
Rear "T" section
Left front. It was by chance that the fittings from the calipers are red.
Cool !! JW
True, but he said he in the beginning didn't have any 3/8" PVC. I get the idea and I think with the correct size tubing, it would probably work. The "wavy" sections kept bugging me. When I finished installing/connecting my fittings, I remembered I had a set of vise grips with flat plates welded to them. I went back and pressed the "wave" I had in a few sections and they straightened right up. Helped me sleep better. I'm not a perfectionist, but I knew the lines could look better than they did.
Well....... looking at the pics got me motivated. So, I grabbed a wire brush and some thinner and cleaned out the holes in the wheel cylinders where the flare ends fit. Then, I measured, flared, bent and fitted the 2 brake lines. I'm still going to replace the wheel cylinders.
All ya' gotta do to straighten line which is in a coil is to set the coil upright on a flat table, hold the end down, and unroll it. It comes out straight as a board, and you don't need to push it through a pipe to do it.
Yer killin' me with that diff cover...
C'mon you don't really need to eat this week, use the $ to get that thing replaced!
Easy, man. This is the cover I'm going with. It's a little pricey, but I like it, so I'm saving for it. I hope it meets your approval.
Meets mine Fred. JW
tfeverfred, I wouldn't be too happy with the way the rear brake flexible is mounted at the frame end. Sure the brake tube is secured fairly close to the flexible but i think that flexible will work that tube over time. Seems an odd way of doing it when the flexible itself has the means of mounting securely. I bought a 41 Chevy Coupe last year that was done that way, including the fronts - i put that on the list of little things to do. Ended up a fairly long list, but didn't take too long to sort out, and i'm a lot happier with it all done.
Mileage may vary!
Hi Fred.Not only looks good,but love the fill/check lube level and drain plugs.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
If I rolled some tube over my tummy to straighten it, it would be more rolled up than when I started.
I did my last T Bucket in basically the same manner. It lasted 5 years and is probably still working for the new owner. It's secure enough. Thanks.
Those are the reasons I chose it.
^^^^THIS FOR SURE!
The end of the rubber flexible brake line should be solidly mounted to the chassis, and then the hard brake line can be joined to it. That 1" long unsupported end of the hard brake line is going to flex otherwise.
Ok........I'll consider it.
The end of your flexible hose is designed to use this type of clip to fasten it to a simple bracket with a hole in it. Do it, and I'll sleep better!
Yea, I have some of those and the frame brackets. I'll consider it.
Better? Now....... sleep well, sir.
Very tidy Fred. JW
I have to admit, it does look better.
Looks perfect! Sweet dreams.
So..... how many of you guys are running residual valves and a proportioning valve? I have the residual valves, but I'm questioning whether or not I'll need them. My last T didn't have them. Tell me your experience with or without.
Mine are in my M/Cylinder, Its a 67 Mustang duel item for drums front and rear. As you are running Discs up front you will only need it on the rear Drums. The purpose of the valves is to hold a measured amount of pressure on the wheel cylinder cups to prevent leaking and if you have that on the discs it will prevent the callipers pistons from retracting and causing drag on the rotors. How is your M/Cylinder set up? JW
Thanks....... I did a search and found I had asked this question before. My M/C is even with the frame, below the calipers and rear wheel cylinders. But your logic on having a RV only in the rear line makes very good sense. I guess I'll install the 10 pound one in the rear line.
Here's my M/C set up (before I had lines)
A 2 psi residual valve in the front line should probably be used too; since your master cylinder is located below the calipers.
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