Termites and Bowties- Early Chevy Group

I went with a stock 401 cam in my 364, I also am running drum in the rear, disc in the front , so we will see what happens I guess .


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Did have one more question?

Getting ready to put body back on frame , wood to metal? Or has anyone put anything between?


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I was debating that same thing what I would do?

 

What does go on our frames is the rubber body mounts, 10 pieces front to back, think about 3/16" thick ? That keeps the wood sills down each side just above the metal frame. On a ford the body sits directly on a black/brown web cloth material about 1/4" thick. Sticky one side.

Just use the stock rubbers thickness, sold by * the filling station * otherwise going thick opens up the gap between the running board and the body , if you have full fendered car..
I & I repo and steele rubber make a special rubber piece that fits between the running board and the rocker panel area that fills the gap.

mike lynch

 

What would we ever do without you mike


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Do you know what they are called I see rubber shims on Filling Station.

 

They are rubber shims about 3/16 thick and 2 x2 square . You also adjust your doors by shiming under the body .
Front of cowl , under the A pillars , Under the B pillers and the rear of body.
If you place a shim at front of cowl , It will lower the rear of door .if placed under the A piller , it will raise the rear of door .If placed under the B piller , it will lift the quarter panel to line up the door . The rear body mounts will need to be shimed if you lift the B pillers .

 

googled the filling station about the mounts...........could not find on their site.........phoned them, big boss at Portland swap, so no answer till next week..........THEN THE BOLT OF MEMORY LIGHTNING HIT ME

http://www.iandireproduction.com/id110.html

these guys show the 2 inch sq 3/16 rubber with cloth rubber body mounts
should have thought of them first. Set fits 1929--1935 Chevrolet

I only know all this stuff , because I have had my 35 std 3 w coupe since 1970 and gone thru it and improved it 3 times.

BY THE WAY TRYING TO CUT THE CLOTH WEB CRAP AND THEN USING A HOLE PUNCH TO MAKE A 1/2" hole in it or the rubber, is a whole lot of fun, be easier with a press of some kind.


mike lynch

 

I bought a set of rubber pads for a 55 - 59 Chevy pickup. These are for the truck box mounts, not the cab mounts. Not sure how they well they will work, (haven't gotten that far, yet), but they look like they should.

 

I happen to have this diagram of body mount spots from Chevrolet 1931..........use it as an idea of where the shimming sports would be, for instance the 33--35 cars have 5 spots bolts that hold body down per side. I recently was in HARBOR FREIGHT in Rochester NY and they had a plastic box with lots of shims inside that had tails for pushing or grabbing to pull out , is the way to adjust the height of the door using 3 of those shimming spots to get the side body moldings to line up correctly.
You can also get the lower rear corner of the door to pull in using the factory threaded rod with turnbuckles inside that runs diagonally corner upper to corner lower. So your doors don't look like a Model A ford sticking out.
mike lynch

 

Mike, i have found that when you use the open ended shims, with rubber, they will walk themselves out. believe it or not. they are best used for metal to metal shimming as in fender to body on the later model cars. they do work good for determining how much shim is needed. put them in till the panel lines up, remove, measure and replace with a "solid" 0 type shim.

 

a trick to using the gasket punches with that cloth stuff is to cut a chunk of 4x4. i have a piece of oak. but turn it so the end grain is up. for some reason it cuts the gaskets better and you need less power to punch the hole.

 

I know I will need this info, with all the wood I've been replacing I really hope I can make this all work.

 

try not to rely on the shims for body fitment when replacing panels/structure. i just went through this with a job i got in that someone else did the metal work. he tried to do it off the frame and it was so far off they would have needed 1/2 thick shims and the body looked like it was crooked.
always start by bolting the sills down to the frame, you can skip the rubber cushions at this stage. bolts should be tight, now start changing panels and structure, adjusting them and the gaps to fit as you go AND keep your eye on the "big picture" by comparing measurements from side to side.
this photo is after i fixed the gaps/panels/structure, using no shims.
sorry for soiling this great chevy thread with one of these turds.

 

I've been waiting for my chassis to get done before I try and lock this wood all together and work on doors etc,

 

Good tip on getting the body straight on the frame before shimming.
I use a laser level to level the frame with jack stands. I use the laser to set the body and doors without shimming .I have lasers for my job , so access is not a problem.I can set it up and see both sides of the body from front or rear .will pick up hinges on driver and passenger sides at the same time.
The laser definettly makes it easier to set tbe body .

 

Are the frame rails the same length from 28-32 or is there 1” difference front to back? Also is the parallel front leaf suspension the same from 28-32? Just trying to find chassis to convert from mustang ll back to original style front suspension. Ty!!

 

TY, I would suggest you use google search and using specific words try to come up with the frame specifications for the 1929--1930 Chevrolet frame and then separate search for the 1931--1932 frame. I have one some where for 1933--1936 Chevrolets but its not relevant to your needs.

Tried to google it but the search kept turning up info for ""Found On Road Dead"" stuff. You might try THE FILLING STATION via email

mike lynch

 

My book says the 29 and 30 have a 107 inch wheel.base .car and truck share the frame..
31 and 32 have a 109 inch wheelbase .
Car and.truck share the same.frame.
1/2 ton trucks only

 

thought i would post these here for future reference. Mallomike brought over his '33 master parts and we compared them to my '33 standard. master parts were about an inch wider. the first photo shows the front apron, the standard apron would would fit inside. the second photo shows the three rear aprons the standard one is hard to see in the back ground but is narrower. the other two are both masters. one with a reveal one without. they both fit the same.

 

I believe the one with a reveal came on master sedans and without the reveal came on master coupes . Might be the other way around I forget now .I am just happy to have a good metal one to use on a car that it makes no difference to me !!!!
Very hard to find a good one !!!!

 

All I can say is wow! Much thank you’s


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Another thing is rear fenders ,33 master fenders have a half moon cut into them at the top where they bolt to the car .Standard fenders do not . Standard fenders are smaller as well .

 

easiest way to spot the 1933 Standard series "gas tank cover panel" is the gas filler opening is 1/2"--3/4" I believe from the top edge. You can see the 2 styles of 33 master are a good inch from the top edge.

I too always wondered why the 33 master had the 2" wide reveal at the top. I have seen it more than the plain one.

mike lynch

 

we also noticed my fenders [standard] have a bolt that screws down into the brace, the masters have a bolt that screw into the side of the brace.

 

Is this how 34 Master rear aprons are? That is, the sedans have a reveal, while the coupes do not? I have one of each. Both are definitely 34 Master, and both fit my coupe. However, the one with the reveal is in excellent condition, while the other is pretty bad off.

 

I am pretty sure the aprons with the reveal are sedan and the smooth ones are for coupes.
I myself wouldnt worry which one I put on my car unless I was doing a restoration .

 

Chevys are complicated. No wonder the rest of them stick with Fords.

 

Just dug out my 1929--1935 Chevrolet parts book reprint.
Looking at 1933 Chevrolet "rear gas tank cover panel ".
1----1933 Chevrolet CA ( master ) part # 371208 ..... except sedan and town sedan
2----1933-34 Chevrolet CA-DA ( master ) part # 371209 .... sedan
3----1934 Chevrolet DA ( master ) part # 371208 same part number as #1

Looks like Joe the wood remover is on to something here

mike lynch