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Termites and Bowties- Early Chevy Group

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 29bowtie, Jan 7, 2009.

  1. paul55
    Joined: Dec 1, 2010
    Posts: 3,374

    paul55
    Member
    from michigan

  2. GEBHARD
    Joined: Nov 10, 2007
    Posts: 1,160

    GEBHARD
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from TX...

    Thanks!
     
  3. paul55
    Joined: Dec 1, 2010
    Posts: 3,374

    paul55
    Member
    from michigan

  4. Great thread, glad I found it!
    ('31 AE Independence)
     
    Fern 54, tb33anda3rd and TFoch like this.
  5. GEBHARD
    Joined: Nov 10, 2007
    Posts: 1,160

    GEBHARD
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from TX...

    Just found this on youtube :)
     
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  6. flatmotor40
    Joined: Apr 14, 2010
    Posts: 551

    flatmotor40
    Member
    from georgia

    Can you adjust door gaps by bending the hinges on a 35 Standard.Need to get top of door up more to get it from hitting B piller
     
    Bowtie Coupe likes this.
  7. how does the front edge of the door align with cowl?
     
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  8. paul55
    Joined: Dec 1, 2010
    Posts: 3,374

    paul55
    Member
    from michigan

    Need to shim the body. If the doors need to go up, loosen the first three body bolts. Put the necessary shim thickness on the second one back, then pull the cowl all the way down. Then go back to the third body bolt and most likely will need approx. the same thickness as the second body bolt. You don't want to pull the third one back down too much, as it widens the gap at the rear of the door towards the rocker. If it needs to go up a tad, start with 1/4" shim. 3/8" if door dragging pretty good.
     
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  9. flatmotor40
    Joined: Apr 14, 2010
    Posts: 551

    flatmotor40
    Member
    from georgia

    I haven't been in shop for 6mo because wife and I have been under weather.But this is an on going problem.Tried shims under frame to no avail.You can put a bottle jack on back of door and jack door up to get lined up with the reveals and tack A piller in and let jack down and door goes way back down again.The frame is bolted to the bottom body plate.One mor think I need the measurment from outside of quarter panel to quarter panel at bottom Of door opening at the B piller.I'm going to try to puss firewall back a little with a port power it seems to push door up in place.I have replace all wood with metal by using the wood as a pattern.Thanks for help.I will try to make a pic if I feel good the next couple days
     
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  10. killbilly
    Joined: Mar 29, 2009
    Posts: 258

    killbilly
    Member

    Bill {Uncleandy}...sorry i missed your post back in June...I am in Schererville ...thanks Phillip
     
  11. paul55
    Joined: Dec 1, 2010
    Posts: 3,374

    paul55
    Member
    from michigan

    If you put, say a 3/8" shim between the wood sill and frame(second bolt back), and take all shims out at the front firewall bolt and then pull it down to the frame, it will raise the door and close the gap at the rear of the door. You have to loosen the first 3 bolts completely, as the 3rd bolt back will require a new, thicker shim.
     
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  12. flatmotor40
    Joined: Apr 14, 2010
    Posts: 551

    flatmotor40
    Member
    from georgia

    Paul I think I found something yesterday the firewall at the bottom has a "l"brkt and I put it where it is suppose to be so I took it out and used a portpower to push the bottom of firewall backward and it raised the door up like it suppose to.I think that was binding it up.I made all metal pieces by the wood dim and they were exact size and transfered hole form the top to the new metal base.So all holes should line up but it didn't.Maybe today I will tack weld it in and see how it stays.That is the long piece that you bolt frame to.Still need the measurement of the outside of 1/4 panel at bottom of door so I can make sure to get width right.I braced it before I took flor out but you know how it still moves Thanks for help
     
  13. Chuck Craig
    Joined: Jun 11, 2016
    Posts: 249

    Chuck Craig
    Member
    from Ocala FL

    I would not do this if I understand the question. You can adjust the gap at the top rear of the door by adjusting the frame/body mounts. Loosen the first mount (located under the rear hood latch opening, and then loosed the second body/frame mount (located at the b pillar). Insert a shim (this will or could take a few different sizes) under the wooden portion of the main sill just in front of the b pillar mount location then tighten the front mound down first, then the b pillar. This should raise the back of the door. You could also have some bad wood in the main sill or in the a pillar. Open the door and lift up on the rear to see if you have movement. Depending of the movement this process may or may not work, because if the wood is bad, you must replace it so that the door is solid mounted and the body is not sagging on the main sill. There is a GM Fisher body manual that gives instructions on how to do this. I see in later post that you have replaced some of the wood with metal. So not sure that all the alignment is set. If anything moved as you were replacing the wood you may have to reset some of your welds. The main sill (runs under the body, sits on top of the frame is very important in getting the alignment of the doors, cowl and hood and can change the deck lid.
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2020
  14. flatmotor40
    Joined: Apr 14, 2010
    Posts: 551

    flatmotor40
    Member
    from georgia

    Thanks the main sill was rotten as always so I made a new metal by copping the wood on as I did for all the wood.I think I have to do the doors first with all the latchs and see where it goes from there.Don't have too much time now to work on it because of heath problems.Buit I will not quit this is my 5th car to build by myself.But with the 40 on my pic did a full frame rotisserie and made all new floors but the A piller and B piller stayed complete because rocker was good not like Chevy's they let the rockers loose with nails.But that is why we do these things.Thanks
     
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  15. GEBHARD
    Joined: Nov 10, 2007
    Posts: 1,160

    GEBHARD
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from TX...

  16. chev34ute
    Joined: Nov 13, 2011
    Posts: 958

    chev34ute
    Member

    Hey Guys.

    I only just discovered this thread today, so I have been looking through all the posts. This is the pile of panels, I picked up two years ago. It comprised of a cut up 29 Truck cowl, single door and a 28 Tourer rear door. E3F1B743-6999-4117-8132-BB53DA26640D.jpeg 5B585D0F-D152-4D87-BE41-1875796EF039.jpeg
     
  17. chev34ute
    Joined: Nov 13, 2011
    Posts: 958

    chev34ute
    Member

    I will be fabricating everything from the cowl back into a closed pickup cab including the doors out of new steel . I am not worried about the task but the biggest challenge will be recreating the lower part of the cowl that is missing. I will be using these mid thirties Chev truck doors as a pattern for the new ones. These doors are actually for closed cab trucks and extremely rare, but look similar to the 27/28/29 truck doors. 2D5E442C-0139-4123-A1DE-57CB3A86B401.jpeg
     
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  18. chev34ute
    Joined: Nov 13, 2011
    Posts: 958

    chev34ute
    Member

    Here is the start of the cab. I have been using sheets of MDF as patterns for the sheet metal.
    8D926769-08D4-47BF-B273-F1FEAB153199.jpeg
     
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  19. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 3,723

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    It looks like a great start to me. That kind of metal work is just magic to me. Keep us up on your progress. Years ago I hauled most of a '27 pickup cab home. Other than a few bullet holes it wasn't bad. I don't know if I have any of it left or not. I found another one in an old dump in a Ghost town but when I went back to get it I found it rolled into a ball by a bulldozer.
     
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  20. fordflambe
    Joined: Apr 9, 2007
    Posts: 542

    fordflambe
    Member

    My "wayback machine" found this one (Aug-1976) of my 31' Coach as I was giving my younger brother his first ride in it.
    And then it came apart for lipstick ...................
    Then after a couple of decades on the road.................


    Aug1976 (2).jpg 31 chevy before.JPG Phil2 400.jpg
     
  21. IMG_1747.jpg Just stumbled across this while searching for other stuff. I'll be spending the next few hours reading all of it. I recently rescued a 36 Chevy 5 window coupe that was a gasser in the 60s. Parked and left to rot in 1970 when the track closed. The chassis is squared away and now I'm looking for tips on replacing the wood framework that went between the chassis & the floor. I'm leaning towards 1x3 rectangular steel for the sides and probably 1x1 or 1x2 cross bracing. Any help would be hugely appreciated.
     
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  22. more pics please
     
  23. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 3,723

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    biggeorge likes this.
  24. Not much to see so far body wise but here she is. Floors are pretty much non-existent and the wood is bad also. 111999229_1001595963608052_9211414049108110050_o.jpg 110823541_1001595983608050_5087637599647601030_o.jpg IMG_0957.jpg IMG_0979.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 25, 2020
    biggeorge, TFoch, PBRmeASAP and 5 others like this.
  25. She's a rough old girl. When I got it it still had stock front brakes and the guy I bought it from thought it had a Ford 9" rear. Turned out to be a 58 Olds rear with welded spiders and 5.38 gears. The rear tires were old bias ply Redlines that were date coded 1970 mounted on 15x10 Aluminum slots. IMG_0960.jpg IMG_1022.jpg
     
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  26. wood remover
    Joined: Dec 23, 2012
    Posts: 987

    wood remover
    Member

    Anybody know for sure if 33 chev 4 door ,front doors ,will fit 5 window coupe ?
    Can somebody provide some measurements of a 5 window door ?
    Thanks
     
  27. Fern 54 and biggeorge like this.
  28. just wondering if any one knows if mad mike 3434 is still part of the hamb he seemed to have a lot of 34 chev info thanks
     
  29. Dick Stevens
    Joined: Aug 7, 2012
    Posts: 3,057

    Dick Stevens
    Member

    He doesn't appear to be, he was last seen in April 2019 and when trying to pull up his profile it just shows up as "ERROR", so he is apparently no longer a member
     
  30. I thought he had possibly changed to mad mike 34 35 but couldn't find anything
    but I do suck at navigating the site so far
    thanks for the reply Dick
    While I'm on here I am in need of a 34 master rad shell
    apparently I have a 33 if anyone needs one
    have yet to figure out how to post a parts wanted add
     

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