The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 29bowtie, Jan 7, 2009.
Thanks I'll look
All is going really well on my 34 Chevy Aussie Roadster! Knocked out the rest of the body work and are now sanding the 2k primer. It's been a lot of hours, but Aussie Midnight Blue color will be flying soon!
Also here are a few pictures 2 months ago here at one of the largest over 4,000 cars at this local Car Cruises!Customs, Choppers and everything under the sun here on the North East at Foxboro Gillette Stadium! Oh these pictures are only a small fraction of this huge great venue! Plus had got out one of my 1933 Hot Rods and final had got and passed for a Mass sticker
at this venue!
A few more parts are painted
Aussie Midnight Blue! The body is all seam sealed and going in next.
I think this has the 30's era car color! Its the darkest Blue color to being Black!
The doors, grill shell and hood sides got sprayed today! They all look great. This is my favorite shade of blue and it looks perfect on a '30s Chevy.
That is really coming out nice.
That’s going to be beautiful Chevy.
Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Thanks Six Ball! For the most part this car has been a total ground up restored with a modern drive train plus the 50’s hot rod era flavor! I am doing my best to have no date period with all parts in my build! Here’s a pin stripes that I will possibly add when done! Cream to match my fire wall and the red to match my Wilwood caliper brakes!
Took a nice New Hampshire Fall ride today.
TFoch beautiful fall day picture with your 33 Chevy! I’m here at my summer house on Eastham Cape Cod dealing with the Northeaster we just got over 90 mph winds! Will try to head back to the main land Foxborough Gillette Stadium Last car cruise this Thursday the 24th with my 33 Ford! Should be a fun time with good weather!
My 34 Chevy Holden Sports Roadster enjoying its first foliage with its new Aussie Midnight Blue and Wimbledon Cream paint!
WOW, just WOW.
I've been looking for a good blue for my 32.....
looking forward to seeing the whole thing together. excellent work
Thanks PBRmeASAP!estimate about 2-3 more months plus then my car will need upholstery! I know it’s crazy but am doing two builds at the same time a 34 Ford full fender Sedan with old school traditional hot rod build! But mainly concentrating on my 34 Chevy Roadster build! For sure it’s a labor of love and again thanks for your compliments! Rory
Need help adjusting doors on 35 2dr standard just started back with it and the doors are low in the bottom back at B piller.Just put new bottom rail in after made a metal one and metal A piller new hinge bushing and pins.Tried 2 times and now ask for help.Braced when I took doors of to start.But they didn't fit that good before I got this car,Thanks for help
Pictures would help. Hows the door gap, is the body bolted to the frame? It sounds like the cowl is low, or the top of the a pillars are sagged/pushed back.
Before bracing I like to have the body on the frame, then get the doors to fit the opening and tack weld them shut to hold everything together. Then I do lots of cross measuring to make sure everything is square before bracing the body. Once everything is braced you can start replacing the wood, rechecking as you go to make sure everything is still square. Its amazing how badly these bodys can get bent out of shape over the years. It takes hours of measuring/pulling/twisting/bending and portapowering to get everything squared up, and its critical to take your time welding new steel in and constantly recheck your measurements and body panel fitment. A little too much heat in one spot and you can end up with a twisted mess that has to be cut apart and rewelded.
Also if the door fits the opening, but sags when the hinges are tightened you can fine tune the fitment by bending the hinges. To raise the door in the back you can place a block of wood between the lower hinge and close the door until you feel the hinge bend.
Problem sounds like “DOOR IS LOW AT REAR B PILAR” . You need to adjust the door upward so the body lines match up. To do that body shims have to be placed under the body rubber mounting blocks. Somewhere one had posted on this site a picture diagram where the body shims go and the methodology of achieving perfection.
If you can find a FISHER BODY book ( ebay ) ?? it will show everything needed to know and how to. Rory
Hi! I found this on eBay and thought you might like it! Check it out now! SHOP MANUAL SERVICE REPAIR FISHER BODY BOOK 1936 1933 1935 1934 CHEVROLET BUICK https://ebay.us/ladnmM
You cannot fool around with wood framed cars without having right info! Rory
as said, post some pictures of the gaps with all the body bolts tight.
I'll try to get pics will get back to it this week I hope.Seems as I retired in 2003 I get slower and slower but have to go to doctors too often now.You can move cowl back with a portapower and the door goes up close to the to like it should.When I did my 40 in pic didn't have this trouble.Replaced complete floor on it also.Bolted the bottom down to frame and started there and working my way up Thanks
I went through the last few pages and deleted a bunch of off topic content. Aftermarket IFS is off topic as are Large diameter modern wheels. This is a traditional hot rod forum, Not a street rod forum (yes there is a difference)....
Try to post pics but with the ratchet clamp I can pull door up to get good gap on top but bottom of body is still off .All bottom bol
ts in mount to frame are tight, tried to loosen up center bolts and flex body in middle with portapower to put shims but it made gap larger.Will go back today to mess with it after a trip to doctors today
Take all the shims from the very front bolt, then go back to the second bolts, loosen and add 1/4" of shims, then pull down the front bolts. You can also pull some shims from #3 bolts and pull the body down at the back edge, although you shouldn't have to.
you will never get the body to adjust with the bracing, I see, that goes to the top of the firewall then back to the floor. i
Thanks I start doing it today I hope.I know it is a job nobody like to do
Oh I have no shims in the car now just a .125 rubber pad on all mounting holes
Put washers on 2nd mount and no bid difference will get back it maybe this week Thanks.Will take all bolts loose and start over
My 34 I’m about to start on... it’s in rough shape any leads on wood kits or any Useful Tips.. Thank you
Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Separate names with a comma.