teck question, adj hydro liffters????

the few times i have adjusted hydrolic liffters is when the car was running. So if the engine (a small block chevy) is in the engine stand and you roll the valves to where they are both closed how tight to ya make 'em??? you snug up the rocker arm and then how much more do ya go??? can anyone give mw a quick walk through here. Thanks
FRITZ

 

I alway turn the crank in the position that you would usually do solid lifters and I just take the slop outbut no pressure on the valve. Then when it starts I readjust. There may be a better way but that works for me. You only have to be close since they are hydralic. Later.

 

Lucky.
Yah thats what i would ually do, but with all the chrome and new paint on this thing I dont wanna screw it all up (show car stuff) I had a buddie that used to do it perfect every time in the stand, I never had a problem after he did it. cant find him or my old notes on how he did it,..hench this post,??any one???
FRITZ

 

Fritz
I always adjust them to no slop and then a quarter turn. for a streeter. You can get away with more preload than that, but it will run good there for ya.
I've been known to run em as light as an eighth turn on the preload but not recommended for a driver.
Get yourself a motors or chiltons manuel and it will give you crank position and valves that can be adjusted, I can't find mine and if I tell you off the top of my head I'll tell you wrong. But you can do it in tow turns of the motor.

 

Roll the engine in clockwise direction looking from the front until the no.1 intake valve opens and closes. Go slowly until the timing mark on the balancer lines up with 0 on the timing tab. You are at TDC no.1, firing position. Adjust the valves on no.1 to zero lash ( roll the pushrod in your fingers while you are tightening them and when you feel a slight drag you have zero lash). Turn the adjusting nut 1/4 turn (to preload the lifter).
Now rotate the crank 90 degrees and repeat the procedure for the next cylinder in the firing order. Keep this sequence going until you've gone through the firing order. It will take two complete revolutions of the crank to adjust all of the valves. Of course you will rotate the crank 120 degrees between each adjustment for a 6 cyl.
This adjustment will be sufficient to fire the engine, warm it, set the timing and put some initial miles on it. After the initial break in miles it is wise to adjust the valves acording to standard procedues for the engine you have.

Frank

 

Adjust the intake valve as the exhaust starts to open.
Adjust the exhuast valve as the intake valve starts to close. Just turn the motor over and watch the valves.

This will work on Fords and Chevy's (and I imagine other makes) because the lifter will be on the base circle of the cam. Wiggle the pushrod, twist it, whatever you have to do to find zero valve lash and tighten it the rocker.

If the motor is out and on the stand, bring the piston of each cylinder to TDC on the compression stroke and adjust both valves at the same time. That's very fast and easy on a stand because both valves will be closed. You shouldn't miss any valves this way either.

I've heard engine builders and performance shops say anything from a 1/4 turn past zero valve lash to a full turn past zero valve lash. I have taken the average of what's been fed to me and take anywhere from a 1/4 turn to 1/2 turn depending on my mood, the sun, and the stars.

Alec.