Tech: Using Oxalic acid to remove rust

Thanks, subscribed!

 

Tried it on some rusty stuff. 1/4 cup to 1.5 gallon of water. Cleaned the rust off some old tools in a coupe of days. I then left it for a total of a week and found some yellow stuff in the water. Looks like sulpher. Any idea what that might be??

 

Got a 55 gallon drum going in the shop. my farts are more noxious! Model A Cowl top, I can see it starting to work after 2 hours. My mixture is weak, need to buy another couple containers of it.

 

You can find already in liquid form where boating supplies are sold. Probally more expensive though. Used to clean scum off boats. I know Bass Pro sells it and any marina.

 

Tman,
Not to be a pain but that stuff isn't as completely safe as people think.
Don't get me wrong.. I think it's great, and I want some. However, the MSDS shows that if your farts are worse than Oxalic acid then you are someone to avoid.

http://www.jtbaker.com/msds/englishhtml/o6044.htm

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Times New Roman][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Times New Roman]Eye: Contact with eyes may cause severe irritation, and possible eye burns.
Skin: Prolonged and/or repeated contact may cause irritation and/or dermatitis. Contact with skin causes irritation and possible burns, especially if the skin is wet or moist.
Ingestion: Causes gastrointestinal tract burns. May cause kidney damage. Causes severe pain, nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, and shock. May cause hemorrhaging of the digestive tract. Overexposure can cause hypocalcemia and kidney injury.
Inhalation: May cause severe irritation of the upper respiratory tract with pain, burns, and inflammation. [/FONT][/FONT]

Just sayin.. be safe, folks.

I'll shut up now.

 

You have been in little Britain too long!~ Fuckin nanny states? Do we have to invade to save you or to conquer?

Off the container the only warning of inhalation is about the DUST from the raw product. Since the shit is granular I think you would have to do a line before it hurt you! Pansies

 

And for that record a good IPA or Stout has the same MSDS

 

Pansies? Invade? Conquer and save?
Hmmmm

Typical response from the little country that we are on top of.

A polite Canadian person wouldn't type anymore about that.
I, on the other hand (a noted prick) ... might remind you that we burnt Washington once before.

Have fun and be as safe as you want to be.
Back to rust removal.
I have a T-bucket and an A truck to dip.

 

OK, day one report. No fumes or gasses. The dog was still alive in the shop this morning, no 5th leg or extra eyeball. My poly barrel is marked by gallons on the side. I have 40 gallons water to one container of wood bleach. Mixture is a little weak, I am going to add another container. After 14+ hours the surface rust is lighter on the submerged area (28 cowl top). I will snap some pictures before I flip the part and finish it.

 

Wood Bleach by Savogran is available at ACE hardware&#8217;s. Their item number is 11221. It comes in a 12 oz container and will cost around $10.00<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
<o> </o>

 

I did some searching online for you. Not knowing Canadian Hardware stores made it a little tough. Look for a Sherwin WIlliams dealer, they sell the Savogran brand

If that fails, Here is a link to ebaycanada and they say they ship north to you.

http://cgi.ebay.ca/12OZ-WOOD-BLEACH...026?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53e4f4fbaa

 

I think I'm going to give this a try on a few things. Can't hurt. Thanks!

 

Tsk, tsk, now T-Man, let's not have an international incident. We wouldn't want to invade our loyal allies over a few pansies, would we? It seems like we have a shitload of our own pansies, right here at home to deal with. And afterall, they're not ALL pansies! Take GizmoJoe, he's a self-professed "noted prick". That doesn't sound like a pansy to me. Besides, they're tougher than they used to be. They don't march in ordered, straight lines anymore and wear bright red uniforms. My advice is to call off the invasion.

GizmoJoe, I don't blame you for being pissed. We realize you burned Washington before but the difference is that if you did it today, many folks here might consider it a favor.

Now like you said, back to the international HAMB brotherhood and some more serious, manly shit, like rust removal, dammit!

 

Funny schtuff Saxman!

Picked up some more wood bleach at lunch time. Somebody is using it, there was a whole case on the shelf.............or buy buying a couple tubs there computerized inventory thought they needed more!?


I am also going to experiment with my magnetic block heater. I think I can get the water heated up well by attaching the heater to the metal that is not submerged. Need to go look at a stock tank heater if it helps

 

I will gladly insult all our fellow Canadian H.A.M.B.'ers, as long as they promise to burn Washington in return.

Fine print:

1) Congress must be in full session. I realize the stench is worse than either the oxalic acid or Tman's farts, but what the hell, the Canadian army must have gas masks. If not, Petraeus will probably loan y'all some.

2) Leave the Constitution and the Declaration of Independence alone...we may use them again, someday.

3) The National Archives must remain intact, as I really want to find out who was on the grassy knoll.

Back to the subject at hand....I've located a number of sources of oxalic acid. What I can't find is some used poly 55 gal. drums. I've ransacked what remains of my brain and can't think of anywhere else...the answer is always, we send them back to the supplier, or, we get paid to recycle them, or, they have toxic materials in them. Even offering up some $$ didn't do any good. Any thoughts? There's got to be some around here, the town has 130,000 people...

 

Automated car washes. They get tons of them. I also got several from the dairy, they had Mikron a food grade lube for dairy equiptment in them.

 

HAHAHAHAHA
You guys crack me up.
Maybe not all Ah-mur-ikans are like your reputation after all!

After all.. you elected Geo. W. .... TWICE!

Thanks for the links and info, Tman. I'll see if I can find a S/W dealer.
The local Ace says it's not in their catalog, even though I gave them a product number.

The block heater idea sounds interesting but I think I'll get a submersible unit. My luck the thing would drop in the water and make "sparkies". I'd reach in and ZAP!... never get to cause any mayhem for you guys.
"Stock-tank" heaters are on sale in many places this time of year.

I'd like to try heating up the molasses mixture. People say it only takes a few days if you get it to 90F.

Homespun91... We'll make sure to leave the Nat. Archives alone.
Many of us on this side of the border would like to know about that grassy knoll too.

A REALLY great container is one from a fish supplier (hard to get for land-locked places, I'm sure but it only takes money). They have big plastic, double-walled containers for fish on ice. They come in different sizes but I'm used to the approx. 4' cubed ones. I think they call them polyboxes.
Go to http://www.bonarplastics.com/industries/marine/ to see what I mean.

 

Yer right about the on top of, comment. Every year US citizen's are 'Knighted" by your Queen for service. (treason) Now back to the tech, is great item, will try as well!

 

Tman- thanks for the dairy idea...that also leads to a couple of other ideas about local companies that use food-grade lubricants. We must have wussy car washes around here, though- you (I think, anyway) suggested them as a source in another thread a while back, and my local ones use those waxed cardboard drums, or the little poly drums. No manly 55-gallon ones.

Giz, I dig the hell out of those plastic fish bins! I might try a couple of local food distribution places and fish joints.

 

Now don't laugh.. ok laugh your ass of if you want...

When I do electrolysis I use regular old cement building blocks (not bricks) and lay them into the shape of a tank I need for a specific part.

I take an old air-mattress (I used to use them a lot when they were they only thing I could sleep on with a bad back), cut it apart and use it for a liner. They are tougher than some plastics. They have LOTS of little strips inside that need to be cut though.

Pool liner comes in bigger sizes but I had the mattresses.

I run wire along the perimeter of the blocks and tie it up. I've never had a tank
collapse and I've had them 4 blocks high. That's a fair bit of water.

Cheap and easy yet effective. Like me.

 

Craigslist for those drums. I looked in your area and found this:

http://peoria.craigslist.org/for/2092090771.html

Just put 55 gallon in the search box and you will get a page full of listings.

 

I may try that for large body panels. I think I can do my Tudor in 4 steps, cowl band, rt qtr,left qtr and rear panel? Oh, and each door by its self

 

Yes, and you can minimize the amount of liquid you use by shaping the blocks "around" odd shaped peices.

It's great for large flat panels. You only need one or two courses of blocks.
And you could do both doors at the same time easily that way. Just suspend them apart.

BTW... I never have any floor in the "tank". I just lay the liner on the ground.

I blew a t-bucket apart like you are speaking about. Worked fine.
Did the box of the A truck I one day hope to build that way too.

Sigh.. a Tudor. That was what I wanted. But steel around here is rare. MEGA rust with our salt air.

 

I have a roll of EPDM roof membrane, gotta see how much is left!

 

DANG! EPDM should be the cat's meow (or any other part that comes to mind).

 

I just assumed that this '50 pickup running board support was never painted from the factory or it had rusted off long ago. I let this soak in OA solution for a few days, every so often took it out and scrubbed with a stiff brush. The think looked like it came off a 1 year old chassis with black paint...

 

24 oz of bleach in 40 gallons, still too weak. 48 hours and my tin is only 80% clean. Going to be patient before I change ratios or try the heater.

 

Yeah, I think thats much too weak. I used a whole 12oz. tub in my Comet to flush the cooling system.

 

I think "CLR" (calicum, lime & rust) is the same in liquid form.I buy the "family dollar" store brand(The works) of it for a $1 & use it to flush my radiator with excellant results & It does also work for cleaning up rust.
Says on the label its "oxalic & glycolic"acid.Works great & its cheap!!
JimV

 

I have use CLR before. It wasn't as fast as Evapo-Rust but it worked well.
The cost was the thing.
I never thought to see if the dollar-store places had an equivalent. I'll check it out.