Register now to get rid of these ads!

TECH: Ultimate T-5 Article

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Flat Ernie, Mar 25, 2007.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. Flat Ernie
    Joined: Jun 5, 2002
    Posts: 8,406

    Flat Ernie
    Tech Editor

    The Ultimate T-5 Swap Article

    There is a lot of confusion regarding the Borg-Warner T-5 and which one to use in an early Ford car. Terms like world-class & non-world class are intermingled with gear ratios and torque ratings, shifter positions and speedometer drive type. This article will try to help clear up some of these issues.

    The confusion surrounding which T-5 is best is understandable. An extremely versatile transmission, B-W modified this tranny to suit different applications several times over its 13-year primary production run (1982-1995) before being acquired by Tremec and discontinued for most OEM use. In truth, the confusion stems from its versatility, and that is a good thing.

    Replacing an early Ford floor-shift 3-speed requires a forward shifter location. This location is found in T-5 transmissions used in S-10, T-10, Astrovan, & Jeep transmissions.

    While the T-5 was used by AMC, Ford, GM, Isuzu, Nissan, Ssang, & TVR (among others - even an agricultural sprayer!) This article will focus on three main OEM applications:– Mustang, Camaro/Firebird, & S-10.


    There is only one positive way to identify which T-5 you have and that is by using the metal tag attached to one of the tail housing bolts. The number will look like this: 13-52-XXX, where XXX is a three-digit number unique to the specific make/model application. There are several online T-5 number decoders, but one of the easiest to use is found at - at the bottom you can use the drop-down menu to select your three-digit suffix and find the original application.
    Contrary to popular belief, you cannot tell gear ratios by application alone, only by tag number and then only if you have a comprehensive chart. So if your buddy tells you to get the T5 out of an S10 with a V6 because it has better gear ratios and/or it's stronger, that is simply not always true and you must reference the tag number.


    In the beginning, there was no WC/NWC discussion as all transmissions were NWC. The WC designation began in 1985 with Ford using it in the 5.0 Mustang first. F-Body (Camaro/Firebird) began using WC units in 1988. The S10 didn't use WC until 1993. The differences between WC & NWC are principally in the bearings & synchros. Externally, there is one readily identifiable difference between WC & NWC (without having to know input sizes & spline counts) and that's the front countershaft bearing retainer. The NWC has a one-piece design that looks like a large welch/freeze plug while the WC has a two-piece design that looks like two concentric circles. Here's a pic of each (lifted from the HAMB):

    World Class Bearing Retainer
    Non World Class Bearing Retainer

    In 1993, GM began phasing in the WC units. While 1993 was a transition year and you may find either WC or NWC, the way to identify them is the’93 and newer GM WC T-5 use the Ford case and bolt pattern, consequently, these will not bolt up to standard Chevy bellhousings.

    In general, WC is stronger than NWC, newer transmissions are stronger than older ones, and higher first gear ratios (lower numerically) are stronger than lower. The torque ratings are guides and typically represent lifetime 100,000 mile ratings. It is generally accepted that WC units can be made to live behind about 400hp as proven by the 5.0 Mustang crowd. There is no hard and fast rule; if you hammer it, it will break. These are classified as light duty transmissions, but that doesn't mean they won't work in hot rods!


    Ford NWC & WC (except 4-cyl) units used a 1-1/16" 10-spline input shaft. The 1994-95 Mustang T5 had a 0.67" longer input shaft & uses a unique bellhousing for the SN-95 platform. However, this input shaft can be swapped with a 1989-93 Mustang input shaft.

    GM used three different input shafts. The input shaft used behind V8 engines (both WC & NWC) was 1-1/8" 26-spline while the input shaft destined for 4/6 cylinder engines was 1" 14-spline. The exception to that is the1993-96 V6 F-body applications which used the 26-spline input shaft & the Ford case. It's important to note that that the S10 input shaft is about 5/8" longer than a standard Chevy input shaft, but otherwise is the same as the NWC Input shaft above. This comes into play at times when using most of the GM adapters on the market - sometimes the pilot bearing surface at the tip of the input shaft needs to be shortened and sometimes, the splines may need to be lengthened. It's very close, so always check your installation - many have gotten away without any work on the input shaft at all with careful selection of parts.


    Early T-5 used a typical gear-driven, cable speedometer drive while many late T-5 used an electronic speedometer drive. In GM applications, the changeover was about 1989. Ford used cable speedos through T-5 usage.



    The S10 T-5 has garnered most of the attention due to its favorable shifter location. The S10, however, was a NWC unit through 1992. There are two basic gearsets available in the S10 T-5:

    1st - 4.03 2nd - 2.37 3rd - 1.49 4th - 1.00 5th - 0.86
    1st - 3.76 2nd - 2.18 3rd - 1.41 4th - 1.00 5th - 0.72

    As a general rule of thumb, regardless of engine, ALL S10 T-5 prior to 1985 received the 4.03 gear set, while ALL S10 T-5 after 1986 got the 3.76 gearset. The S10 T-5 was also available in the equivalent GMC T-truck.

    The speedometer changed to electronic with the 1990 model year, however, some 1989 model T5 came with electronic speedos if they were equipped with the optional digital dash. These can prove problematic for swaps, but output shafts & tail housings can be swapped with cable-driven speedo models. There is some evidence that certain types of early electronic speedos can be converted to mechanical, but I have no experience with this. There are also cable converters out there, but they are not inexpensive.

    While not very common, the Astrovan T-5 is worth mentioning. With an offset shifter that can be replaced with an S10 shifter, it makes a good candidate for swaps too. The 4-cyl vans used the 3.76 gearset, but the ratios found behind the V6 are better than the S10:

    1st- 3.50 2nd - 2.14 3rd - 1.39 4th - 1.00 5th - 0.78

    Tag Numbers:

    S/T Truck – 4.03 Gearset – 010, 012, 013, 014, 033, 042, 043, 055, 056, 057, 058, 146
    S/T Truck – 3.76 Gearset – 107, 108, 110, 136, 145, 186, 191, 192, 193, 201
    Astrovan – 3.76 Gearset – 170, 180, 190
    Astrovan – 3.50 Gearset – 101, 148, 149, 164, 179, 189


    Introduced in 1983, the T-5 arguably gained its fame in the Mustang 5.0. The first to take the step up to WC in 1985, Ford used the T-5 through the Fox-body & SN-95 chassis ending in 1995. The strongest T-5 available was found in later Mustangs and available through Ford's Motorsport & SVO operations.

    Available with a few different gearsets, the most common gearing was from 1985 through 1995:

    1st- 3.35 2nd– 1.99 - 3rd– 1.33 4th - 1.00 5th - 0.68

    The other V8 gearset used was the NWC 1983-84:

    1st - 2.95 2nd - 1.94 3rd - 1.34 4th - 1.00 5th - 0.62

    Ford rated their T-5 anywhere from 260lb/ft to 335lb/ft depending on the application. In 1989, stronger alloys were used upping the torque rating from 260lb/ft to 300lb/ft. The 310lb/ft rating belonged to the 1993-94 Cobra spec T-5 and an aftermarket-only Z-spec T-5 was available with 335lb/ft.

    The late-model (1994-95) 3.8 V6 T-5 was rated at 265lb/ft, had the slightly longer input shaft, and had the following ratios:

    1st - 3.35 2nd - 1.93 3rd - 1.29 4th - 1.00 5th - 0.73

    Ford did use the T-5 in later V-6 Mustangs, but there is very little data on them. I do not have a list of production tag numbers, but they are challenging to swap due to their linkage-based shifer and lack of a slip-yoke using a flanged mating surface. I have never held one of these in my hands, but I suspect they could be used in many swaps with a remote linkage and a different driveshaft.

    Tag Numbers

    NWC V8 – 034, 065
    3.8 V6 – 220, 236
    V8 260lb/ft – 126, 165, 169, 141
    V8 300lb/ft – 199, 204, 208, 246, 218, 219
    Z-spec 335 – 249, 251
    SVO – 200, 202
    Cobra – 239, 242, 253


    GM used the T-5 in F-body cars behind all engines. In general, the I4/V6 got the following ratios:

    1st - 3.50 2nd - 2.14 3rd - 1.36 4th - 1.00 5th - 0.78

    Although some 4-cyl cars got the 3.76 gearset as used in the S10 & a few V6 cars actually got the 4.03 gearset.

    The V8 F-bodies typically got the following Gearset:

    1st - 2.95 2nd - 1.94 3rd - 1.34 4th - 1.00 5th - 0.73

    It is worth noting again that the 1993-95 F-body V6 cars got a Ford case with a GM input shaft. There were no V8 T-5 during these years.

    Tag Numbers

    V8 2.95 NWC – 028, 062, 070, 072, 157, 185
    V8 2.95 WC – 159, 160, 175, 176, 195, 196
    3.50 NWC – 015, 027, 061, 156
    3.76 NWC – 054, 083, 158
    4.03 NWC – 181
    4.03 WC – 177
    NWC Other (unknown app/gears) – 071, 084, 150, 166, 178, 182, 183
    WC Other (unk app/gears) – 197, 212, 213, 214
    WC Ford Pattern – 210, 245, 247



    The Mustang and F-body T-5 both have rear mounted shifters at the end of the tailshaft. These often make difficult swaps and shifter placement, particularly in early Fords, is untenable.
    L-R Early Ford Toploader, S10 T-5 w/Adapter, Mustang T-5

    The S10 T-5 is often selected due to the shifter placement (approx 7 inches further rearward than early Ford), but typically lacks desirable gear ratios or the increased strength of a WC unit. Because of the T-5 excellent interchangeability, the tail housing and top cover from an S10 can be swapped onto other T-5. There are a few issues when doing this.

    The first is a small plastic oiling funnel found on the countershaft and retained by the tail housing. These are different from WC to NWC, but it is primarily due to changes in the tail housing casting, not an internal oiling issue. Consequently, this plastic funnel should stay with the tail housing. So, use the S10 plastic funnel when swapping an S10 tail housing onto a WC T-5. If it will not fit, and the original WC funnel will fit, use the WC funnel. This is not a super critical item, but pay close attention to it to get the right fit.

    T-5 Countershaft Oiling Funnels

    The second issue is that of speedometer gear. Typically, when installing an S10 tail housing and top cover onto a WC T5 from a Mustang or F-body, the speedo gear will no longer align with the driven gear mounting hole in the housing. The output shaft has a built up area where the speedo drive gear mounts with a clip. Moving the gear requires building up the output shaft with shim stock. An excellent example of how to do this is found on the inliners websit at:

    Finally, if putting an S10 tail housing onto a Ford T-5, you will probably have to change the tailshaft bushing for the Ford one. This is due to different diameters of the output shaft.

    Adapting a GM (pre-1993) T-5 to any other GM product is pretty straightforward. Just find a bellhousing that will accept any standard Chevy-style transmission and bolt it all up. You will have clutch linkage to sort out, but putting the trans behind the engine is easy. Due to the slightly longer input shaft of an S10 T-5 as compared to a standard Chevy input shaft, when using an S10 T-5, pay attention to the pilot bushing area on the input shaft. It may need to be trimmed and shortened a little bit. Also, pay attention to the splines and use a clutch disk that does not push the splines way back on the input shaft. You may need to either change your clutch disk or lengthen your input splines carefully with a die grinder.

    Adapting a Mustang T-5 to a post-64 Ford bellhousing is pretty straightforward too. A thin, flat-plate adapter used by the early Mustang crowd is all you need. However, the easiest solution is to use the bellhousing from a late-model 5.0 Mustang; no adapters required.

    65-Up Ford Adapter

    Adapting a Mustang T-5 to a 1949-64 Ford bellhousing is also relatively easy. The bottom two bolts line up well, one top bolt will need to be re-drilled, and the other top bolt will likely need an ear welded onto the bellhousing to finish it all off. The input shaft may need some minor trimming in the pilot bearing area.

    When adapting a GM T-5 to a Flathead Ford, there are several options. Offenhauser makes two adapters; one for the early, internal clutch linkage and one for a more modern clutch fork. Speedway sells their own version of these adapters for a lower price. Cornhusker also sells a complete kit with the adapter and other items (like pilot bushing, input shaft sleeve, etc).
    Speedway Clutch Fork GM Adapter

    Another option is to use a machined flat plate and the "hogshead" or mini-bellhousing from a 1946 and up Ford truck 4-speed. Dwight Bond (eBay ID 007Dwight) in Gibbon, NE sells these for very reasonable and you would be hard pressed to buy the material and pay for the machining for what he asks. He also has the special pilot bushing and input shave sleeve. There are also plans for the flat plate available from George Greenbaugh (eBay ID community-chest) for the hard-core do-it-yourselfers. Both gentlemen seem to have stopped doing these on a regular basis, but when contacted, may do so with enough interest and orders. Check and see.

    Dwight Bond Flat Plate Adapter on Hogshead

    To use the Ford pattern T-5 behind a flathead is a bit more work, but a company in New Zealand, Macs Speed Equipment, builds this adapter. Their webpage is: I believe Vern Tardel also makes an adapter to use the Ford T-5 behind a flathead.


    As mentioned, input shafts vary by application and there are three general sizes, Ford, Chevy V8, and small Chevy. When adapting the T-5 to a flathead, or many other early engines, the input bearing retainer where the throwout bearing rides may be too small if using the original throwout bearing. A simple sleeve-type adapter can be used and are easily made by any competent machine shop, or readily available either in kits from Speedway or Cornhusker, or separately from Dwight Bond and others.


    As a rule of thumb, any clutch disk that has the correct input shaft size/spline count and correct diameter for the pressure plate will work. The Astrovan clutch disk seems to be popular when doing the flathead conversion, but check the clearance on the flywheel retaining bolts. Some clutch disks will not clear the bolt heads and cause problems later on. The very best option is to have the correct center hub installed on the flathead disk by a good clutch rebuilder. Clutch rebuilders will build anything you need or want for the most part. Unfortunately, unless you live in a major metropolitan area or near a port where big trucks see a lot of duty, most small time rebuilders have gone the way of the dodo bird.


    One of the T-5 weak points is the stock shifter. There are no positive stops on the shifter itself, so it is easy to "over shift" the transmission. This can cause bending and cracking of the shift forks and is most notable when really banging the gears hard. This flexing of the shift forks will result in damage to the synchros. One of the best things you can do, especially if you like to shift hard or fast, is to use an aftermarket shifter with positive stops that are correctly adjusted in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations.

    Shifter handles can be modified simply by cutting off the original shifter and welding on the handle of your choice to the stub. Some shifters are two-piece with a rubber isolator that can be torn off and a new handle welded on. If you use a Mustang transmission, the shifter handles merely bolt on to the stub.

    Mustang shifters can be modified for use on GM T-5. The rear two bolt holes line up, but may need to be reamed slightly. You can trim the excess rectangular plate off the Mustang shifter to fit the square GM shifter box and redrill some holes.

    Another option is a remote shifter. These started appearing for the early Mustang crowd a few years ago. They are pretty simple to duplicate by any good hot-rodder and may be preferable to swapping an S-10 tailhousing on as these are getting harder to find and come with some additional work (speedo, oil funnel, etc). The one big downside to the remote shifter is it requires some clearance above the transmission and may not work (unless left exposed) in tight applications.


    Which throwout bearing to use will depend on specifics of your swap. If you’re running a flathead in an original Ford frame, it may be best to use one of the adapters that allows you to retain the stock clutch linkage and throwout bearing. This will provide the neatest solution.

    Hydraulic slave cylinders are easily adapted in both push and pull configurations and may be the best way if building from scratch or using a less common setup/swap. In this case, use a throwout bearing that will readily adapt to your linkage. In some cases, you may have to sleeve the input bearing retainer, while in others, you may use a T-5 OEM throwout bearing.

    Hydraulic throwout bearings are also available, but reviews and results are decidedly mixed and they tend to be quite pricey.


    The T-5 is as straight-forward as most other modern manual transmissions and require a minimum of specialized tools. Two excellent resources are available online, the Borg-Warner Technical Service Manual here:

    and a good how-to rebuild manual here: [

    Endplay is the key to any manual tranny and the T-5 is no exception. Shim packs are still available from Ford and small parts kits are available from several sources online.


    Like engine oil, which oil to use in a T-5 is the subject of much debate. From the original OEM manuals, you can see the following information:
    All NWC T-5 use 70WT Gear Oil or Redline MTL.
    ALL WC T-5 use ATF.
    ALL subsequent manuals tell us to use ATF in ALL T-5. So, what's the story? The OEMs originally used a 70WT gear oil in the early NWC transmissions. As the automakers were focusing on NVH and MPG, the switch to ATF was made and this coincided with the WC upgrade. It is generally safe to use in the early T-5 as well. However, do NOT use gear oil in a WC T-5 though - it will ruin the blocker rings/synchros. Use a quality synthetic oil (regardless of which type you need to use) & change it frequently (every 15-20K). Fill to the fill plug; about 5-1/2 pints or 2-1/2 quarts.


    For a flathead conversion, you will probably need to convert to an open drive setup. Hot Rod Works and Speedway, as well as several others, sell a conversion kit for your banjo rear. Alternatively, you can swap to a modern rear like an 8" or 9" rear. You will need to replace the torque tube with some sort of locating device if modifying your banjo. The stock radius rods simply are not up to the task.


    While I have not done it yet, I am in the planning stage of converting a Jeep T-5 transmission to accept the torque-tube and stock early Ford U-joint. This should require crossmember modification, spline adapter, flat-plate adapter to accept the bell mount, and shortening the torque-tube/driveshaft. I will post this on the HAMB when I complete it. Who knows, maybe I will produce a kit if I am successful!

    If you are interested in purusing this yourself, the Jeep 4x4 T-5 is significantly shorter than the S-10 4x4 T-5.

    Crazydaddyo here on the HAMB has produced a conversion kit to swap an S-10 4x4 T-5 into a Model-A and retain the closed driveline. It's an elegant solution.
    Jeep T-5


    The following is a list of various websites. Most are pretty good, nearly all have errors (like I know this article does too). Most errors, are errors of omission that can lead to misunderstanding or confusion, however, there are some errors of fact on many of these pages.


    Jim O’Clair, T-5 Transmission Swaps, Hemmings Muscle Machines, July 04
    Hokey Assed Message Board,
    Inliners International Board,
    POMOFO Racing,
    Transmission Technologies Corporation, URL=""][/URL]
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2015
  2. Flat Ernie
    Joined: Jun 5, 2002
    Posts: 8,406

    Flat Ernie
    Tech Editor

    I've got this saved as both a MS Word .doc here: (300KB)

    And for those w/o MS Word, a rich text version here: (BIG - 9MB)

    I've been threatening to compile this info for a long time & finally got off my arse & did it. It's meant to be a one-stop FAQ for the more common questions. I'm in no way a T-5 expert, but I have been playing with them since '90-91 or so.

    Lemme know of any errors & corrections & I'll go in & fix 'em!

  3. krusty40
    Joined: Jan 10, 2006
    Posts: 843


    Ernie - thanks for doing this! You ARE the T5 ruler. vic

  4. myke
    Joined: Dec 13, 2004
    Posts: 2,134

    from SoCal

    Thanks for the info!

    Who makes an aftermarket shifter for them?
  5. UPSrodder
    Joined: Jun 9, 2005
    Posts: 566


    excellent information, been doing a lot of research myself. Most of mine came for here or the stovebolt page. You have gone above and beyond. Got this thread saved for sure. Thanks again
  6. Flat Ernie
    Joined: Jun 5, 2002
    Posts: 8,406

    Flat Ernie
    Tech Editor

    Hurst is probably the best source for anything other than Mustang shifters. For the Mustang, there are probably a dozen good aftermarket shifters - might be a couple for F-body too.

    I have an idea that will put positive stops on the stock S10 shifter, but haven't tried it yet. Basically a collar bolted to the round part of the shifter with one small bolt going through the collar as a locking/locating device. Then just weld tabs up in front & back to accept bolts. Hard to describe, really.

    No, not really. I've just been tinkering with these for a while. There are loads of folks who do this for a living & I pick their brain.
  7. Dirty Dug
    Joined: Jan 11, 2003
    Posts: 3,678

    Dirty Dug

    Great article but I have one question. Can I use the S-10 pressure plate with the stock Ford throwout bearing behind a '50 flatty?
  8. Flat Ernie
    Joined: Jun 5, 2002
    Posts: 8,406

    Flat Ernie
    Tech Editor

    I don't believe the S10 pressure plate will bolt up to the flathead flywheel. I guess you could have the flywheel redrilled to accept it...try it & find out.:D
  9. Dirty Dug
    Joined: Jan 11, 2003
    Posts: 3,678

    Dirty Dug

    I did have it drilled to fit but wonder if the stock throwout bearing is compatable with the fingers on the S-10 pressure plate.
    CamV likes this.
  10. Flat Ernie
    Joined: Jun 5, 2002
    Posts: 8,406

    Flat Ernie
    Tech Editor

    Well, you should have decreased pedal effort - the diaphragm-style clutch is much easier to operate.

    I don't know what kind of throw is required to disengage a diaphragm-style clutch, but would imagine it to be less than the borg & beck or long style. I see no reason why it shouldn't work in your application, but you'll have to mock it all up & see.

    One thing to watch out for is over-centering the fingers on the pressure plate. You may have to play with pedal ratios a bit to get that sorted if it's a problem.

    Bottom Line - you'll have to mock it up & see.
  11. Dirty Dug
    Joined: Jan 11, 2003
    Posts: 3,678

    Dirty Dug

    Since I would have to mock it up and mount the pedals I think I'm better off just using a flathead pressure plate. Thanks for the help.
  12. FoMoCo_MoFo
    Joined: Mar 30, 2001
    Posts: 1,666


    limeworks sells a real nice one as well as a real nice e-brake set up
  13. Great article but I found a possible error. The text says all chevy W/C from 93 up use the ford bolt pattern. I took the world-class T-5 outta my bone-stock 93 S-10 ]with a 2.8 V/6] and the bolt pattern was most definetely chevrolet. I bolted the tranny to a Speedway adapter used to adapt a GM [muncie 4 speed type] tranny to the early 59-AB, ford flathead. Bolted right up after I installed the correct pilot shaft bushings and bearing retainer adapter bushing.....all stuff that came in the Speedway [offenhauser] kit. I also had to lop off about 3/8ths inch from the end of the pilot stub and run a 1/2 inch drill bit through the metric mounting holes in the tranny case so I could use 1/2 inch mounting bolts...
    I also noticed the early S-10 4 banger T-5 with it's smaller bolt pattern wasn't addressed. I have one of these old non W/C trannys I'm adapting to a stock chevy pickup V/8 cast iron bellhousing. I'm gonna have to re-drill and tap new mounting holes for the top 2 mount holes and make up some "L" shaped brackets to utilize the bottom 2 mounting holes in the tranny case......right now there's nuthin but air to bolt to on those bottom 2 bolts...
    Just some ramblings.
  14. a/fxcomet
    Joined: Mar 31, 2001
    Posts: 554

    from Eugene, OR

    So the shifters are different between the different makes? I have a S10 T5 out of an 83ish truck. I'm looking for a newer mustang t5 to mate it with. I was kinda hoping I could use a mustang aftermarket shifter, but I hadn't researched that yet.
  15. a/fxcomet
    Joined: Mar 31, 2001
    Posts: 554

    from Eugene, OR

    Oh, and THANKS for taking the time to type all of this up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  16. HHRdave
    Joined: Jul 31, 2006
    Posts: 1,068

    from So Cal

    EXCELLENT article. Thanks!
  17. Great article...thanks
  18. Flat Ernie
    Joined: Jun 5, 2002
    Posts: 8,406

    Flat Ernie
    Tech Editor

    Rocky - all my research said '93 & up. I've only ever dealt with a '94 & it was definitely the Ford bolt pattern - maybe '93 was a transition year? I will have to research this some more - thanks for the heads up!
    I also dropped the ball & failed to mention opening up the holes on the trans - it's these little things you take for granted that get left out. Thanks again!

    I purposely left out all 4-cyl application from Mustangs. The only "possibly" odd S10 4-cyl I've never put my hands on is the diesel version. You got pics of this early S10 4-cyl one with small bolt pattern?? PM me if you do - never even heard of it...

    This is exactly the feedback I'm looking for! Thanks!!
  19. bones35
    Joined: Jan 1, 2004
    Posts: 382


    can these tranny's really hold up to torque motors in racing conditions. im wanting a overdrive for a daily driver-drager.
  20. This needs to be saved to the tech files. alot of work went into this post. Thank you so much now I know what I have sitting in the garage.
  21. Flat Ernie
    Joined: Jun 5, 2002
    Posts: 8,406

    Flat Ernie
    Tech Editor

    There are documented sub-12-second cars running T-5 trans - check out the Mustang 5.0 crowd. There are many (expensive) upgrades, but the T-5 is still considered a light duty trans. If you're going to be running a big engine, get an aftermarket 5-speed like the TKO 600 or something similar...
  22. gavin
    Joined: Dec 6, 2005
    Posts: 94

    from Sonoma

    Thanks for posting this! This article just saved this board from receiving god know how many post from me regarding a T-5 to flathead project.
  23. Ernie,

    Another point about the Astro van transmission is that the shifter is located almost midway between the camaro (back of tailshaft) and S10 (engine end of tailshaft) models This was really helpful when I put a T5 in my son's '58 Chevy Apache pickup. I took a M-22 out and the Astro van shifter was located almost perfectly to use the original shifter hole in th efloor. We have the original bench seat and we notched the front edge of the esat about 2 inches before cover it and the shifter lays back into the notch beautifully. I seem to remember some Ford car that was set up this way from the factory.

    The V6 on the WC models I have are longer than the V8 input shafts in addition to being different diameters and spline counts.
  24. Piper106
    Joined: Jul 29, 2006
    Posts: 118


    For those using one of the four cylinder or V6 GM T5s with the 1" diameter x 14 spline input shaft, the 11" diameter Astro clutch disc that fits this input shaft is NAPA part RCF 4212.

    That is all I think I know.

  25. Svenny
    Joined: Jun 24, 2006
    Posts: 129


    Thanks a million! This is great info!
  26. Levis Classic
    Joined: Oct 7, 2003
    Posts: 4,066

    Levis Classic

    Nice post...thanks
  27. Omega
    Joined: Jul 11, 2006
    Posts: 876

    from Mass

    Tremec makes a ford t-5 which has a higher rating for hp and tq. There are upgrade kits to, but a few companies, most mustang guys upgrade tothe tremec tko tranny. In my mustang i use the steeda triax shifter. Pro-5.0 has a shifter to, thats plain looking.
  28. Flat Ernie
    Joined: Jun 5, 2002
    Posts: 8,406

    Flat Ernie
    Tech Editor

    Tremec is producing the Z-spec trans for Ford Racing - they sell it under their own name too. It's rated at 335lb/ft.

    I haven't tried it yet, but I think the Mustang shifters can be redrilled for the S10 pattern...that would provide lots more choices.
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!


Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.