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Tech: Shortening an I beam axle

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by topcat662, Mar 13, 2007.

  1. topcat662
    Joined: Feb 14, 2006
    Posts: 373

    topcat662
    Member
    from NM

    Your not being a pest that's wht I wrote this tech. I cut the pitman arm off because it was going to be in the way. I wanted to use side steering anyway.
    Eddie
     
  2. tcoupekyle
    Joined: Mar 6, 2007
    Posts: 859

    tcoupekyle
    Member

    Thank you sir. This is a great tech
     
  3. what about the guy in salt lake city that drops axles? heard nothing but good things and his prices seem reasonable plus quick turnaround. he's here on the hamb and one of the throttler's i think? :D
     
  4. Those econoline spindles are great for conversions. I used some on a 37 ford tube axle. My next use will be a complete narrowed econoline under my 50 shoebox. Gasser style but lower.

    Thanks for the method to narrow! Being a welder the long overlap does put alot less stress one the welds. Great design.
     
  5. tcoupekyle
    Joined: Mar 6, 2007
    Posts: 859

    tcoupekyle
    Member

    when you use those spindles where do you get new steering arms or tie rod arms or did you use the stock stuff
     
  6. mmordrop is in san leandro
     
  7. topcat662
    Joined: Feb 14, 2006
    Posts: 373

    topcat662
    Member
    from NM


    Thank you for all the replies and compliments! As for the tie rod ends and steering arms. I made them from DOM tubing.
    Eddie
     
  8. Mr 42
    Joined: Mar 27, 2003
    Posts: 1,216

    Mr 42
    Member
    from Sweden

    Ive done it to :)
    It works.....
     

    Attached Files:

  9. Midnight340
    Joined: Jan 4, 2004
    Posts: 150

    Midnight340
    Member

    I used to live in a warehouse one block over from MorDrop, I am assuming they are still in the same building? Does anyone know if they ever moved since the '80's???
     
  10. 1931S/X
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 667

    1931S/X
    Member
    from nj

    so what wire did you use to tig it?
     
  11. oldandkrusty
    Joined: Oct 8, 2002
    Posts: 2,128

    oldandkrusty
    Member

    Just looked up the address for Mordrop (use "yellowpages.com"). It is:

    Mordrop Axles
    600 29th Ave.
    Oakland, CA 94601
    510-261-1888

    If you use the yellowpages site it will also give you a map of their location. Hope this helps those that are looking for specifics.
     
  12. okiedokie
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 4,303

    okiedokie
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Ok

    Just a thought here. If you wanted more drop in the front end you could use the old AMC bolt on spindles. Been quite a few rears since they used 'em and I don't know how available parts may be. But you sure could drop it some more. They used to use 'em on early Ford beam axles by cutting the spindle stub off the axle, making a plate to attach to Ford flange, then bolt AMC spindle higher on the plate. Had a friend that used them on a 40 Ford without problems.
     
  13. jville_hot_skater
    Joined: Apr 9, 2009
    Posts: 1,002

    jville_hot_skater
    Member
    from jville

    this is an old post...but i have an f1 axle that i need to shorten as well, but not to this degree.
    i need to narrow it in about 1 inch in the center...so that the perches are 28"inchs apart instead of 29"inches apart.

    now i heard that you could either cut the axle and weld it together(like in this post)
    or ive heard that its possible to belly out the axle to where it has a slight v shape in the middle. (never seen it done, is it a common method?)
    since its only 1 inch that i need to bring it in....
    which method would you go with?
     
  14. bobscogin
    Joined: Feb 8, 2007
    Posts: 1,761

    bobscogin
    Member

    Econoline van axle narrowed 7". Cut and spliced using the same joint prep as the original poster. Pre-heat, welded, with 7018 , and controlled cool down.

    Bob
     

    Attached Files:

  15. designs that work
    Joined: Aug 29, 2005
    Posts: 411

    designs that work
    Member

    The F1 and F100 axles were used in super modifieds and they all were narrowed as described. If you do not cut the spring pads off until you are done, a piece of angle iron drilled with the spring pad bolt pattern can be your jig or fixture.
    Duane
     
  16. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 7,227

    19Fordy
    Member


    I remember reading a year or two ago that MorDrop is no longer in business.
    The business card and flyer I have from 2002 gives the phone # as 510-261-1888.
    Martin Costello, owner. 600 29th Ave. Oakland, CA 94601
     
  17. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 10,635

    Atwater Mike
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Forget Mor Drop. The business has been for sale for 3 years, heard he's been ill.

    Ansen (on the HAMB) is excellent, and is in Auburn, just East of Sacramento.

    Sid's "Nostalgic Axles" is superb, in Oklahoma. Just google "Droppedaxles".
     
  18. toddc
    Joined: Nov 25, 2007
    Posts: 981

    toddc
    Member

    Are you using parallel leafs or transverse? Why not move the shackles out 1/2 an inch each?
     
  19. Now that's a great idea! It would have to be a pretty substantial piece, maybe an RSJ or something.
     
  20. kkustomz
    Joined: Jul 4, 2007
    Posts: 342

    kkustomz
    Member
    from Texas

    They are cast steel, not cast iron. I have cut modified and built axles from scratch. You should be fine
     
  21. inline 292
    Joined: Aug 25, 2006
    Posts: 296

    inline 292
    Member

  22. "T'RANTULA"
    Joined: Aug 6, 2011
    Posts: 662

    "T'RANTULA"
    Member
    from Ohio

    You sir are a genious! I been lookin for a good cheap I beam axle and have welded some in the past. Never thought about the twin I beams! Dont worry im a good welder. ;)
     
  23. fordor41
    Joined: Jul 2, 2008
    Posts: 952

    fordor41
    Member

    Just remember because one axle is in front of the other, steering arms/ toe on turns may become an issue
     
  24. R Pope
    Joined: Jan 23, 2006
    Posts: 3,309

    R Pope
    Member

    I have been looking at twin I beams for this purpose, too. The only problem I have seen is, they have a bend in them right where the hole for mounting the radius link goes. One bends back, the other forward, so from the bend outward, they are straight across. Easy enough to heat and straighten this kink, just advising anyone who tries it that the problem exists .The main reason I haven't done it is that I am not overly impressed with Ford's disc brakes!
     
  25. kennkat
    Joined: Aug 25, 2011
    Posts: 1,383

    kennkat
    Member

    I narrowed a '46 Ford front axle years ago by cutting a section out of the middle in a "tang & slot" manner.... made a jig, used a DC machine & 7018. Turned out beautiful...
    Worked great... was for a '52 Mg with a small block Chevy.... Krazy
     
  26. zibo
    Joined: Mar 17, 2002
    Posts: 2,346

    zibo
    Member
    from dago ca

    I remember reading this years ago.
    At the time thought it was a little sketchy,
    but with the amount of welding projects I've done over the past 5 years
    in heavy duty marine based stuff,
    and seen it years later still holding no problem,
    i've realized steel is steel.
    And an I-beam is really less then 1/4" thick.
    I'd definitely arc weld it though,
    something about a 7018 bead seems so strong in comparison to a mig.
    Thanks for bringing this back up!

    TP
     
  27. kennkat
    Joined: Aug 25, 2011
    Posts: 1,383

    kennkat
    Member

    Yes, in truth a DC machine & 7018, while more "skill sensitive" is much, much better for the strength of the finished part. In the right hands X-ray quality welds with 7018 are the "norm" :) Have Fun Hot Roddin :)
     
  28. salf100
    Joined: Oct 13, 2009
    Posts: 431

    salf100
    Member

    Mordrop is closed but the number is still good. Don't think he does much work anymore. Saw large amount of his inventory for sale at a swap meet in sac this summer.


    Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
     

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