Here's a few pics of the door solenoinds in my bro's 50 fleetline after he shaved the handles. In the first shot you can see where he drilled a hole in the door latch for the pull rod (a piece of coat hanger) to go. Here's the back side, notice the larger hole he drilled to allow the rod to be installed. Here's the solenoid he used, your basic bone yard GM power door solenoid.
Junk yard actuators? I didn't even realize that they were linear. I always assumed that they were built into the mechanism. Ya just saved me some cash, thanks!
Another tip, if you need a more powerfull solonoid like the heavy duty 35lb ones advertised...............use a SBC starter solonoid!!!!!!!!!! Thats all the store bought ones are!
A common reason for weak solenoid pulling is undersized wire and a large voltage drop. Ive used #12 wire and GM actuators with good results.
or try these S10 Blazer TailGate solenoid found this while getting some stuff for Large Marg. compact w/a pulley& bracket. pull only w/return action. they measure about 4inches long & 1 3/4 across(total of about 3" across w/bracket).dont know the PSI they pull but does give a hellva yank when tested. look for S10 Blazer 1994 & older & they may be the same in 2nd Generation also. http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b358/TooMany2count/solinoid.bmp
Always wondered if those solenoids would work on a door latch, I have some laying around in doors I have to get rid of - I'll probably just cut the insides out and save the power stuff. But I had thought to try them for this ... wow, like 10 years ago, just never got that far on that car.
yea, they might suck a little more juice, what might work is run heavier gauge wire from the solenoid to a relay and then the battery, and wire the switch to the relay...
That one posted by TooMany2Count (S10 tailgate) is also used in GM "A" body station wagon tailgates in the 80s-90s. The bracket is a little shallower on the wagons.
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