I'm building a '32 Ford frame similar to the one described in the book. The photo shows the "A" rear crossmember sitting on the lower flange of the frame rail and a filler piece added to close the gap to the top flange of the rail. Is there a reason why I can't raise the crossmember to the top thereby lowering the rear of the car about 3/4 of an inch? I would then add a filler piece below to close in and tie to the lower flange. Thanks PanheadGuy
Yep, go for it. I can't speak for Mike Bishop and Vern Tardel, but I don't think they intend for their book to be the only set of instructions on how to build a hot rod, but rather a good collection of ideas that work that should inspire other creative thought. It's an awesome book, and I love it -- I wish there was more, other editions, etc. Your idea will work just fine.
Here's what I did... I started building my frame like the Bishop Tardel book but then decided to move my crossmember up to the top of the frame... I then did about a 1 3/4" sweep-'notch' thingy. before and after...
Next question? Should the crossmember be pitched a bit or level to prevent spring twist as the suspension moves. Not sure I stated this question correctly. I'm wondering if the crossmember needs to be placed on an angle at 90' to the centerline of the torque tube? Maybe there is enough "rubber" in the spring that this doesn't mean anything. Thanks guys for the help and especially to Kilroy for the photos. It looks like Kilroy planed the crossmember off the top of the frame flange. PanheadGuy
I started with it on the bottom but changed my mind after it was all together. Ideally you should have the x-member angled to a 90 off the torque tube at ride hieght and fully loaded. This is nice to say on the computer but is next to impossible to do in reality. It involves guestimating where the rear end is going to line up after everything in in and on and on the road, before you actually have the cross-member in. And if your running a torque tube your even more in the dark because you probably haven't cut it to length yet and have no way of defining the path of the rear yet either. I would suggest taking a best guess and tacking it in. Then after you have the car in final mock up, check it again and if it's way off, adjust it. Springs are designed to flex a bit so you are probably ok if you're within a couple degrees or so.
Kilroy, Dude, You have correctly articulated my concerns. I think your idea to tack and finish weld later is a good one and will do. I suspect in the big scheme of things done in the past.....rod guys never gave this shit this much thought and everything worked out fine. If you look at a stock model a frame the crossmember looks to be in the same plane as the rails. PanheadGuy
Just finished a 29 on deuce frame with a crossmember at top of frame.used 36 arms had to notch frame ,so the arms would clear frame.Also remember the rears in a orginial car are a lot highter than in most hotrods,so take in consideration that as the frame gets lower the spring leans forward at top..I have found that by opening the spring ,if a model spring , to 46 inches 2 inches less than perch distance. With spring held at this distance Install spring to cross member at desired ride hight, than tack in place.This shoud give you the degree of tilt forward..
The Jalopy Journal
