You "should" be able to remove that bushing without removing the trans. Also plan on that rear seal at the same time. And yes there "might" be some play there, but it will be fairly snug, loose enough to spin, tight enough to keep it from moving.
This is my first reply to any posting, but I noticed you said your mechanic said the yoke fits snug...the front yoke should push ALL the way in and then back out about an inch to allow for in and out play as the differential moves up and down. if it is snug (bottomed out) then it is in a bind between the differential yoke and the transmission output shaft and can cause all kinds of problems. among them is vibration. Good luck and let us know what you find....
I believe he was talking about an up and down wiggle, not a bottoming out of the yoke. Dragsta, The bushing and seal are sold separately. If the trans still has the paper tag on the top cover, they will probably want to know the number on it when you get the parts.
snarl: thanks i didn't think about that. i have the tag 13-52-192 . gotta call the old boy now and tell him the info and get him to also order that seal. oh wait, that's the metal tag. the paper tag was on top but it wasn't in good shape. can't remember if i removed it prior to pressure washing or not. it's a NWC T5 though from an 89, S15 so there can't be many bearing choices for it. THANKS!
The paper tag should match the metal tag. The paper tag is the barcode...and your 192 tag definitely decodes to an '89 S-Truck w/3.76 gearset.
at first i thought that a 3.76 first was going to be too tall but when i test drove it i had to go up a steep grade and it was perfect. this will be especially helpful when i have a load. i can always take off in 2nd. i called last night and he had the bushing and seal. i'm feeling good about it. thanks to everyone for your help. tim
Why didn't you stay with the two piece driveshaft to begin with? Seem's to me being a 8 foot bed, that it would have helped with clearance issues under the truck. And since the shaft needed shortened, you could have had only the front one done. I had a long bed truck one time that I measured the pinion angle after removing the driveshaft and it was 10 degrees up. Surprised me. Might check your's in relationship to your trans.
lol..... won't know till tomorrow. he might have the bushing installed now though but when it's 100º i ride the motersickle at night and early morn. i might putz out there later today after it cools down. the only other issue with this trans installation (provided the vibration was in fact the output bushing) is that the clutch under load makes a sound like 100 grit sandpaper on fender. it doesn't do it when there is no load so i'm wondering if the clutch is slipping. this could be due to the fact that the floor still has holes in it and every little sound comes right in the cab. i just thought it was odd that it did it only under load. with the driveshaft off, no noise what so ever.
It's amazin how much noise comes up through holes in the floor. Throw a old chunk of carpet over the floor with a small hole for the shifter. And yes a clutch makes a bit of sandpaper noise when engaging with a load.
thanks, i won't worry about that then and concentrate on the vibration. i'm 99% sure that it was the output bushing. should know tomorrow.
I was reading a manual that stated that you should be able to push up on the front yoke and the yoke should Not move enough to allow fluid to leak by the tailshaft seal. Would have to move that dust seal to see it. Hope that gives you some idea of the limits on the movement
I like the 2-piece shafts on trucks, especially if you really load the bed up. The 1-piece shaft is really too long (IMHO) for the application. Bob
Not trying to hi-jack the thread, but tell me more about these bars. Anybody have a picture of them installed?
he replaced the tailshaft bushing and i took it for a test. SAME THING! same darned vibration. so i drove it a little further down the highway, turned around and headed back. the vibration was decidedly less and i took it up to about 65mph. i could still feel it but it was not near what it was on the previous run. then i slowed, and repeated. the vibration came back with a vengeance. it was so bad that i took sidestreets back for fear that i'd hurt the trans. when it's vibrating, pushing in the clutch just makes it worse. it's absolutely speed related. the driveshaft is balanced, new output bushing, new u-joints. when i wiggled the yoke with the new output bushing, there was just a tad less slop from the old bushing. but the old bushing was leaking a little so i thought for sure this was the problem. it still may be the problem, i don't know.... the yoke in my orig trans has NO slop what so ever. i took some videos this time which i will upload to youtube shortly. hopefully you guys will know what is the problem. after all of this i'm considering reinstalling the old trans. pisses me RIGHT OFF! i can push up on it a little and no fluid leaks. but i wonder if it's supposed to have some wiggle room. this could be the problem. that driveshaft is putting a lot of strain on the back of that trans. a split shaft would allow the yoke to go straight out and the suspension torque would be all on that center bushing between the two halves of the shaft. i'm going to suggest this because he's got a 58 chevy truck with a split shaft in his yard. they are just bars with flat ends which connect to mounts. you can probably google it. regretfully no....
I say again.... also, Front and rear ujoints should not be allowed to have operating angles of more than ½* apart from each other. An example would be the front joint being 2* down while the rear ujoint is 2-1/2* up. A greater angle than this will cause some harmonic vibration.
here are two videos: the first is the vibration from inside the cab driving down the road. right at about 17 seconds into the vid i push in the clutch and the vibration worsens. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZiKBYTPjXhA this is a video of the yoke and me pushing up and down on it. it has a slight bit of play which you can hear. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=81kofMShYvc if we can't figure this out soon, i'm going to have to tell him to put the old trans back in. FUCK!
Who made your drive shaft?? make sure the ends of the driveshaft that hold the u-joints are clocked 90 degrees from one another. If they are not the whole u-joint process will fight it self and not opperate as smoothy
I think the drive shaft has had about everything covered, I think the pilot bushing in the crank is the problem. If I recall a post said it was new, was it checked to make sure it was the right size for the imput shaft? If the I.D. is to large the clutch will be thrown out of center causing vibration. Simple way to isolate this with the truck parked trans in neutral rev motor with out the clutch depressed = vbration, now put trans in gear and depress clutch rev motor = no vibration. hope this helps
Did your mechanic have the pressure plate down to change the disc? If so, check to see if the 1) flywheel was zero balanced. 2) pressure plate was then balanced with flywheel. May be out of balance if removed and reinstalled. 3) If pressure plate was balanced to this flywheel or just changed with disc. 4) out of balance disc or flywheel or pressure plate. Good luck!
i ran the trans through the gears with the driveshaft off and it was smooth. but i'm still not ruling out that pilot bushing. putting a load on the trans might cause the problem to surface. i'm going to do your test again tomorrow just in case.... this guy has been building driveshafts for 40 years. we then sent it out for balancing with no change. this is something that must be considered but the tests i did with the driveshaft off indicate that this is not a problem, UNLESS putting a load on it causes the problem. the vibration is definitely related to truck speed not engine speed. when it's vibrating, i put in the clutch and it gets worse. when i had this problem before, it was the output trans bushing. i guess we ruled that out now.... well, it changes. when i first test drove it over a week ago, i noticed a vibration at around 20mph which got worse the faster i went. THEN , today, i didn't notice anything until i got to around 40mph. THEN, i took it on the highway and and took it up to about 60/65 and it was very noticeable. THEN, i stopped and turned around and made another pass. the vibration was greatly reduced even at 65mph. i was cautiously optimistic... i then slowed, turned around and made yet another pass and the vibration was the worst it's ever been. something seems loose and it MIGHT be that pilot bushing or he cut off the input shaft too short and there's not enough going into the pilot.
Cure for bad vibrations: Install CD player. Buy Beach Boys greatest hits album. Set player to replay "Good Vibrations" all the time.
you said the mecanic said the yolk is snug to the tailshaft? let off the gas it subsides?just something else to throw out there.you gotta have play both ways
Was the trans output the same height over the mount as the original trans? I had this once going from a BW to a Saginaw 3 speed. Check angles of output and rear.
let off the gas it does NOT subside, even after i push in the clutch the vibration gets worse until the truck slows down to about 20mph. he fabricated a mount which looks terrific.
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