T Bucket Bodies Question "Who To Use"

You will get it and just go for it! Like a lot of guys have said it is more forgiving then metal would be. If you had to do a patch panel in metal and had never done welding I would be more worried. You can burn through metal and warp it before you know it.

I agree this is a great thread with a lot of info that I hope people just dont glance over the thread and miss out what else has been said besides the info on the companies to buy from.

Louvers my dad said wait until it is raining outside on a hot summer day and pull the body out and go to town on sanding. Also wear clothing that wont let it in but it always seems to find a way in lol.

 

Look at some pictures of exposed engine cars using those front distributor engines your considering. Most cases the fronts have too much stuff and look overly long. Also seem to look empty back by the firewall.

Back distributor engines usually look cleaner in front and fill in good to the firewall.

Just my opinion of course; but if you look at a few pictures you will see what I'm getting at.

 

Louvers my dad said wait until it is raining outside on a hot summer day and pull the body out and go to town on sanding. Also wear clothing that wont let it in but it always seems to find a way in lol.[/QUOTE]


If I waited for a hot rainy day 'round these parts, I'd be dead before it happens! That kinda why it's a desert... Ya know?
it's been a good couple of months since we had a drop or two of rain - maybe next month. Now hot, that we've got lot's of!

I have always felt the same way, with the possible exception of Chrysler B and RB engines. There is just something weird to my eye about a front mount distributor in a "T"-bucket engine compartment.

 

If I waited for a hot rainy day 'round these parts, I'd be dead before it happens! That kinda why it's a desert... Ya know?
it's been a good couple of months since we had a drop or two of rain - maybe next month. Now hot, that we've got lot's of!



I have always felt the same way, with the possible exception of Chrysler B and RB engines. There is just something weird to my eye about a front mount distributor in a "T"-bucket engine compartment.[/QUOTE]

I forgot you live in AZ lol turn the sprinklers on lol.

I was offered a Buick 350 for $40 bucks and I have not taken it yet would like to just to learn to rebuild it and maybe use but not sure on that.

The 383 I'm looking at (none running) is 200 and (running) is 300 and both with transmisions.

The other motor that I'm set on if I can get it is the 283 for $250. I like the thought of a 283 and if I found a 289 I would do it. I would also do a (Mopar motors) 361, 272, 318, 360, 340 and maybe even a 413 but that might be getting to big for a a T bucket.

 

For seating we use new reproduction seat cushion assemblies available form Car-Line Mfg. in Beaumont TX or Snyder's in New Springfield OH. Henry designed these for the suspension and roads of the time and we have found them to work wonderfully in T buckets. If your car is being channelled aggressively you might have to modify the springs but they usually work fine as is. Mount the spring too a 5/8 or 3/4 inch plywood sheet after using your hole saw to cut some breathing holes in the plywood. A half dozen 2 or 3 inch holes in an evenly spaced pattern will work fine.
Place the boarded assembly in the car and put a spacer board 3-5 inches thick under the front of the board. This gives you the beginnings of your seat angle for comfort and easy road manners. Now get in the car after putting and old blacket or piece of tarp on the springs. They can tear up the seat of your jeans and pinch the bejesus out of you.
Get hold of the steering wheel or mock it up. See how it feels to you. Easy to reach and use controls? Sitting in the car, not on it?
Remember, the seat springs compress with your weight and don't bottom out except in the most dire circumstances. Thanks to Mr. Ford again.

 

If I waited for a hot rainy day 'round these parts, I'd be dead before it happens! That kinda why it's a desert... Ya know?
it's been a good couple of months since we had a drop or two of rain - maybe next month. Now hot, that we've got lot's of!



I have always felt the same way, with the possible exception of Chrysler B and RB engines. There is just something weird to my eye about a front mount distributor in a "T"-bucket engine compartment.[/QUOTE]

I agree totally. Avoid the "ugly gap" between the firewall and the engine. As pointed out to me by a professional photographer.

Small engine, distributer in front and body set back too far.

First incarnation of my roadster with the 289 Mustang engine and "ugly Gap"

Second picture with bigger 331 Cad. engine and body set up three inches. I actually had to move the radiator and grill up a couple of inches too.

Remember an inch or tow here and there make a big difference. Once in a while during your build pull your project out and step back twenty or so feet and just look at the profile.

 

Absoltely agree with Steel Rebel. We've use the thickness of your hand measurement when setting engines in and it looks just right. Also watch the space up front between radiator and engine. Keep it tight and all is right.

 

I agree totally. Avoid the "ugly gap" between the firewall and the engine. As pointed out to me by a professional photographer.

Small engine, distributer in front and body set back too far.

First incarnation of my roadster with the 289 Mustang engine and "ugly Gap"

Second picture with bigger 331 Cad. engine and body set up three inches. I actually had to move the radiator and grill up a couple of inches too.

Remember an inch or tow here and there make a big difference. Once in a while during your build pull your project out and step back twenty or so feet and just look at the profile.[/QUOTE]

I see what you are saying with the motor and the space. Wow it does really change the over all look.

I was thinking about this and I really dont want a lot of space between the motor and radiator.

 

I agree totally. Avoid the "ugly gap" between the firewall and the engine. As pointed out to me by a professional photographer.

Small engine, distributer in front and body set back too far.

First incarnation of my roadster with the 289 Mustang engine and "ugly Gap"

Second picture with bigger 331 Cad. engine and body set up three inches. I actually had to move the radiator and grill up a couple of inches too.

Remember an inch or tow here and there make a big difference. Once in a while during your build pull your project out and step back twenty or so feet and just look at the profile.[/QUOTE]


Best advice ever given! You can crunch numbers, memorize dimensions, fab everything until all of those numbers match, but dammit, if you step back twenty feet and it doesn't look right, STOP! Figure out what isn't right, fix it, step back again, then move along...

 

^^^ Yep ^^^

While I am not a big fan of Speedy Bill I am going to say that he does sell a good quality glass T bucket. If I wanted one I would go with a speedway unit in a heart beat. I would probably get someone else to buy it for me though.

 

Oh, maybe it is just me, but I like a T with the distributor in front.

Don

 

Do you have more pics? I would love to see inside the Bucket.

What motor did you use?

Also what color blue is that? I really like it.

 

Sure. It is a 306 Ford roller motor.

Don

 

Don, was that TPs drop in interior, or did you do it/have it done?

 

That is a nice clean looking bucket. I love the color combo. I have a thing for white interior cars.

What year are the headlights? Also what are they from that is the look I really like?

I have never heard of a Ford 306 before. I learned something else new tonight.

Also what are the gauges they look great.

 

YES -- its just you

 

I just bought that same intake and pair of carbs. I plan to put them on a 331 stroker. Maybe a 347. What cam did you pick to run? How does the car run? C4?

 

A 306 is just a 30 overbored 302 Ford.

Yes, it started out as a TP "drop in kit" but it ended up being a nightmare to install. We used about a third of the foam they supplied with it because it threw your body so far forward due to the thickness of the roll around the edge. We sliced and diced it to get it to fit somewhat better, but TP didn't use the highest quality materials with their kits. At some point my Son (his car) is talking about taking it to an upholstery shop and having it all ripped out and redone. But it is ok for now and he seldom gets to drive the car anyway.

Don

 

Oh, I know they were far from "drop in", thats just what they called them, lol.

 

Seat belts?

 

My Son and I are running the same cam, a Ford Racing X 303. I like the torque band and it revs like mad.

I am running a 331 in my 27. I debated over a 331 vs 347 and settled on the 331 because various threads seemed to indicate the 331 had a less severe rod angle and had less blowby issues. Since I drive the car a lot I wanted it to be as dependable as possible and I figured those extra 16 cubes weren't worth the risk. Even as it is, my stroker isn't the quietest motor out there, it ticks a little until it gets warm.

His 306 runs really well with a C4 and very high gears (2.79 ). He is running a 3000 stall convertor and TCI trans. When I am following him and he leaves a light I have to open the 2 x4's a little to hang with him, and I am running a stick and 4.30 gears. His little motor pulls really well. It came out of a Mustang drag car I bought and we did a rebuild and some head work to it, so it is a pretty good motor.

Don

 

No, we subscribe to the philosophy that if these babies flip we don't want to be the tallest thing strapped inside them. I know there are debates on that subject, but I want tossed clear if mine rolls over.

I do have a seatbelt tucked under the seat but only because they made me have it for the BP drags.

Don

 

That's the cam I plan to run! LOL!! Any videos of your cars around to drool over?

Your car is a stick?!?!? What trans are you running?

 

A toploader 3 speed out of a 68 Galaxy. In this video it sounds like I shift 4 times but the first two are just where I had to get out of it in first because of no traction and then I got back into it. But it still wouldn't hook until half way through 2nd. Better slicks next year.

Don

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CwVJRrX2vj4

And this is the first ride my Son got to take in his T bucket.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-GS_HOKJOUU

 

Not sure whose gauges they are, maybe Dolphin. The headlights are an old pair of BLC's or Guides that I had stashed away. ( I forget which)

Don

 

They make us use belts around here because the ambulance drivers are too lazy to look for the bodys.

 

I've got TP's instruction manual and they never called it a drop in. It was an upholstery kit and just looking at the instructions would scare a sane man away. Don, you were very brave.

CCR has a drop in kit, but it's kind of pricey. How pricey? You have to call for the price. THAT'S how pricey. The carpet kit was $149, but that was a few years ago. You have to call for that too. One day, I'm going to call. I use a trimmed set of car floor mats for my carpet, but I'd like something that fits right.

Don, your engine & body gap isn't noticeable, but then you have a second carb back there.

 

Wow, Rebel! That body is set back far! Did you end up moving the engine back or the body forward?

 

I was just going to ask if the motor tucked in more into the body or what. I like it and the car looks right it has that stance that is just right.

I have to nail down the stance.

 

Oh man I thought I new the headlights and the look I liked. I just watched a seat of BLCs go to well over 200 bucks on eBay. I was watching them for days with no bids at 40 bucks and then it took off lol.

Great looking cars and I dig the videos.