Projects SURVIVOR;Working on my hotrod 28A from 1959,rebuild

I see I forgot the info I was going to post with post#85;
I desided to move my plate mount from under the left tailight to centered on the rear. I'm adding a 1928/31 folding luggage rack behind beerkeg gas tank on some temp brackets that will hold in place by two big wingnuts,will also add a stop light to top center of lugagerack. This is going to be so I can bring along my wifes wheelchair to carshows and meets for her to come along. The plate would not be seen as EZ if I left it in it's old spot.

 

My old Ford Y-block motor has been hiding in the corner of garage for many years doing nothing.
Some times they don't like to wake up!
Stuburn but she goes,did not wish too!, We pumped up oil psi before trying to run,.
Had not run at all for 3 years,and then only for 2 min. on the floor on blocks as a check,before that I'm guessing it had not been running for around 30 years +. I'm happy about it now,great oil PSI,45# @ 180*. She'll need the valves adjusted and another carb. yet.Plus a water pump/its leaking some. Don't worry,it will start;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_de3_gbWIvY

 

She starts up now nicely.
The 2bbl intake and carb that I had put on to get the 292 to run,was not excatly as good as said by the guy I got it from,but I'm sure he didn't know that who ever had rebuilt the 2bbl carb,had left out the check ball under the booster screw=thats why carb was working funny. Even funnyer is I found the ball just raddeling around in exc.pump housing,and yes the other ball was in place as it should be behind the pump. Werid but fixed

 

Stubborn, for sure. Cool video, way to go.

 

Need help;I used it as a part of my rod.
I been trying to find out the name of some alum strip used between two sheets of alum intersiding of freezrers in the late 50's/60's,they were 8ft long,by about 3in. wide total,made of about .045+,but had a center of about 1in. that showed after 2 full 4ft x 8ft alum sheets were put to it as a joint/conector. Was around a lot in the late 50 and 60's for freezer inside walls. I'd like to find about 8ft.,I had used it as straps for my beer keg gas tank on my hotrod in 1959,but they are long gone and I'm trying to replace them,had a look I liked. they didnot really hold tank inplace,but looked like it.
But I can't seem to find,ether don't make anymore or I'm using wrong names/words to hunt the strips? Thanks if anyone can help on that at all.
__>---<__ thats kind of a cross cut view of alum strip. can be seen some on keg in this photo,but not well. If I can't find,I'll need to just make them from scatch myself!

 

Hey, I'm diggin' our build. Re: try some coolroom/refrigerated room panel manufacturers for a joining strip for your keg. RodL

 

Alternator are not my thing at all,but don't wish to use my Gen. anymore=lost reg. and brushs bad, Alt is better for needs now,so I just didn't know about these Alt.. I was thinking I'd get Bobby D. to rewire the Ford one I have into a one-wire[I understand one wire,thats simple],any way I take it over to him and he tells me I'd be better off just buying a one wire aftermarket Ford type. Well that would be great if hotrod piggy bank had over $50 in it"NOT"just bluw the bank on a carb kit. So who's got ideas? I don't even know what year or Ford the two I have came off of,but both are just like each other and got them from a few years ago,another bud that is now gone,thanks RIP Ed.
I was looking at finding a outside reg,but turns out not knowing what my alt. is kills thatseems to be pre 1979 Mustang? So need a simple wiring drawing and extunelregulator for the hotrod. Open to ideas? I'll be posting how I do this thing up in anycase. Looks like the alum casing is fairly EZ to polish up to make it shiny,noy chrome like a new one-wire but hay it's free.

 

This week been working on the inside panels for doors, kick and seat sides. Made some cardboard patterns to work out the right sizes before cutting up the door skin wood I had for other house work. They will be held in after upholstery n padding is added by some Stainless steel screws and SS cone washers. Still got to deside the color but later.

 

Looking good Dana!!!!!

 

try searching for "H Panel Connector"

 

Hey Dana, ya got an estimated test drive day (ETD) picked out yet? Perhaps a holiday or significant anniversary in the near future? Gary

 

I had one and missed it,[My high school reuoin] that was more disapointing then I thought it would be. But now I'm just working along as I can,looks like with luck by end of year,if not what ever it is. As you know there never really done anyway!

 

Always like using stuff I have saved when it can look great and not cost anything kind of.
My buddy Rosh was working out at Miami Int. Airport some years back,when they were tairing down one of old artdeco buildings. He saw them trashing out a stainless steel wall and was able to save some of it for me,knowing I love old shiny stuff. This stuff is got dimples made into it,so it looks very kind of Industrial styleized like big rivets,very cool looking for the time.
I talked a little about the firewall we did for my son's "T" out of a peace of this stuff also,I'm going to do the same thing to my own and also the back panel that was shiny alum in 1959 but gone bad now. You can see in other old photos in thread the back of rod were the old shiny alum did show. This stainless should be better on both firewall and rear. The photo below shows a cleaned up part of the scrap Rosh got for me years ago from Airport wall,and beside it a cut to fit part for rear of my rod. Holly crap this stuff is hard to cut,used up 5 cut off wheels and two bandsaw blades.
The #2 photo is of the firewall part of the old artdeco stainless inplace as I'm working on it. Now days I think the young guys call it bling!

 

Dana, interesting looking stuff. But I thought shiny things like this were used to keep old crows away?!?!? LOL. Gary

 

Gary,you maybe right,I have not seen any old crows for some time now!

Temp testing.The stainless test fit to back panel and seeing how all the parts work together again plus new parts.
I'm also proofing out my wingnut adtachmint for my wifes folding wheelchair rack,its a new repo copy of a 1928-1931 Ford "A" rear bumper luggage rack,so when she comes along I can bring her wheels too. Not something I had before but will be needed from time to time now. I'm going to move the tail lights outword about 1/2in. to help them show better when ever the rack is on. Looking like I need to also add #3 brakelight to the rack for better vizability when running the rack on there loaded with the wheelchair.

 

I got back to work some on inside panels you saw in post #98,had to add/weld in some tabs for screws to go to and do triming,I fitted footborad and made a small chanel for wiring to come up through the footboard to under dash. The chanel is a steel U about 1in. wide by 1/2in. deep,that should keep feet/shoes from massing up the wiring going up the inside of firewall from below floor.

 

Great stuff Dana! Your ideas always seem to work out just right, plugging right along.

 

The firewall looks great!



'27 T Roadster build: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=734383

 

Thanks guys.
Today was work on getting the old Indy Hurst shifter adjusted again and centered up in floor hole. Had to make new arms for tranny,still had both shift rods,but the little arms got lost,so I made some,wrong the first time,so did them again,you know fit and refit,better now. Had to make a faster shift,so shorten space between tranny shaft and shiftrod hole.
Found out the little cross pin at bottom of shifter handle had broke its small welds enough to wiggel and that was also making shift odd,so fixed that too,starting to feel right again.

 

Looks good!

 

A nice upgrade on the shiny stuff! This is looking great, keep after it.

 

Thanks guys,
Today I'm working on my windshield,a old racing buddy came by 2 weeks ago and after looking over my old rod ,said he could make me some auto 2layer safety glass for the frame.Cool,so I gave him the frame to take with him . He came back this tusday with the glass in the frame and I thanked him very much,that was really cool.
The only down side if there is one,is he cut it too big and forced the frame around it bending the frame. So I take it apart and see it's got no strait cuts,kind of bumppy,but the inside curve along the bottom is really done well{the hard part I'd think to get right],its the top and one side that are very lumpy.? I'm sure he did the best he could,so this is for me to fix and not say anything to him. It was fairly EZ to unbend the frame. I'm grinding very slowly with 80G so glass dose not get to hot,got two of the about 1/4in. lumps off so far,and 5 more to go. I'm inside cooling off and go back out in a hr. or so.

 

Holy crap, I just checked back in! No moss growing on you! Just seems like yesterday I asked about the keg, and you are getting ready for a test drive!!! I dig the firewall.

 

Yeah, that firewall's JUST the thing for the design/era of this car. Shows off the Y Block nicely, and the 'rivets' give it that Industrial Aircraft flavor...but polished!
(Can you tell I love the firewall idea?)

Really cool how the original car was just 'thoroughly cleaned up' by the same 'Rod Jockey', just older, wiser, and more 'polished'.

The axle detail is excellent, good call on the Rustoleum Metallic. (I was shocked at its brilliance...Will try the Crystal Clear, so it saves its shine!)

I would do just the same if I still had my partially channeled '31 Cabriolet back that I built in high school. (I remember all the 'rough spots', after 55 years!)
This is a great thread.

 

Years ago, we had these 4" stainless rollers about 4' long, from some kind of mining operation, laying around a shop I was working in. They were worn out, but had a pretty high nickel content. Looked REALLY nice, would really shine up nice.
I decided to make a small diameter crank pulley for my 440 mopar from the stuff, sure tore up a lot of cutting tools making it! SERIOUS fun to machine...

 

Happy ya enjoy the little updates. Well I got the glass windshield sanded down to fit with out screwing it up. I put some black tape all around and fited it in to frame. Next comes test fitting it back to the new post/stanions and see if there even close,cuz I had to rebuilt the rusted out top of post that stanions bolted to.

 

Dana, You are making some good progress. Firewall is looking GOOD !!! Back in 1966 I talked my Dad into bringing home some aluminum sheet which became the firewall cover in my 39 Chevy. Evenly spaced aluminum rivets and a good polish job mad it worth while. Good Job............................. Jeff

 

Thanks for the check in guys.
I found the photos I lost of fixing the windshield/frame;
Rusted out windshield roadster frames are fairly normel,mine had rusted out along the bottom chanel like many I see,and some up the sides to were the glass fits in to the "U" shape. Fixing it is a lot of work,so many buy better frame or new frames if they have $$$. Here is how I fixed the rusted out "U",found some small box tube with ID of 5/16in. and cut one side off. Took my 4in. grinder and dressed out the rusted "U" so I could fit the new "U" I made from the box tube[the box can be bent to fit base cruve of windshield and I cut top off tube after bending] to keep shape=if cut off first it will try to fold inword.. I cut the frame apart after making a jig on some plywood to reweld it back together for right size and angls.
A wire welder seemed to work EZ to tack every few in. to place new "U" and then weld slowly.

 

Another shot of "U" welding into windshield frame lower tube. Rust was bad and evapereated so filled in over a few times slowly. Then grinder had to do some work.

 

Love it. This is one of the greatest parts of the HAMB, being able to see home built ingenuity. So cool.