1962, I had the straightest '46 Club Coupe you ever saw. Super Deluxe maroon car, all the trim. No engine/transmission. No wheels. My bud Billy Ambrose took wheels, eng., trans for his '31 roadster. $12, just get it by Saturday? Pink slip, too. I installed my 'nearly gift' engine, a 331" Chrysler Firepower, from Joe Reath. (this was in the rail, first engine to break 160 MPH in the quarter. Reath's blower guy, Rich Hansen, was a bud that owned Hansen's Blower Service, Long Beach. Rich gifted me a 671 blower, ($24.00 for reversing, clearancing, and neoprene seals) Heads had been 'O' ringed, ports matched. I scored a blower manifold from 'Hemi Henry', as well as a snout and pulleys. '41 Ford P/U trans, and some 97s atop the blower. Triple Vee belt drive, 3 trips to Moon, Dean's wife finally figured that out! Worth 'all that'? For a street car? Oh, yeah... Careful on the trans...8.20 X 15 rear, 5.5" wide steel Mercs. Bastard scared hell out of me, the MOON gas pedal was all I thought about...that noise...Yowza!
1200 is way too much and so is 15 lbs of boost thru a 671 on a 392. You'd need an 8-71 so you don't heat the charge up. Then the 8-71 gives a bunch of stuff to work around and cost you money. 1000 hp is just about right.
O'Toole, You know Rusty I am not really a numbers kind of guy, I am a seat of the pants kind of guy. Bob did not tell me or even hint at a number ( I never asked) I would suspect that 600HP from the original build was kinda high, but what do I know ""I am not a numbers guy"" As long as this thing gets out of its own way, I am sure the rest will be just fine. Just got an e-mail from the Blower guy and he has already shipped all of the drive parts and the manifold and carbs, bolts and misc stuff, everything but the Blower. Looks like I will have some stuff to drool over until the pistons ( three weeks) and the block (two weeks) get here. I am going to post pictures of this as it comes together. I will even try and do one of those video things of the engine running on the test stand. Burn out ??? belair you already trying to get me in trouble, but of course there will be one of those too.
What about double keying the crank, I didn't see that mentioned. I only got two months of driving on mine at the end of last year but it was hell of a fun. Other things to think about are the extension of the pulley on the crank making the engine physically longer, and the they do build heat so a bigger radiator may be in order too.
swade41, Thanks man those are damn fine thoughts. I do not have room for a bigger dimension radiator, but I sure could ad a row more tubes if need be. Something to keep in mind that's for sure. As to a double keyed crank, no one has even mentioned that to me so thanks for that heads up.
Hombre I have thought about putting a blown hemi in my deuce coupe but I don't think I have the firewall to radiator room with the added extra length for the crank pulley even with a flat firewall. Curious if you have taken the measurements and will you need to bump out the radiator or set the engine back into the firewall? Here is a H.A.M.B. thread I got the dimensions from http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/hemi-tech-engine-and-component-dimensions.605860/ Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
If you're putting a 3" wide belt and also a v-drive pulley to drive the alternator and water pump, then figure you need about 8" from the front of the block. I'm sure you'll have to completely redo the firewall in order to make it fit - been done a thousand times. Also, if your frame is not boxed and strengthened, it is going to torque over like a noodle - so think about that when you put that heavy 392 in it, along with 100 lbs of blower and induction on top. Exhaust will be a pain in the butt - always is, no matter what you have on the top of the motor. Since you're having the block decked - have them do a deck finish for MLS gaskets - like the Cometic ones. These should seal just fine with limited blower boost - if you go higher, you'll need to o-ring the heads/block and run soft copper head gaskets (like SCE or Flatout). I would run a double-keyed crank snout (as you have it all apart anyway) - and some better rods would be a good idea. With all the changes to the lower end, you'll need to rebalance the reciprocating assembly. Clearances: I would run larger bearing clearances than a NA motor --> about .0025+ on the rods and .00275 to .003 on the mains. If the work is already done and you're closer to .00225 and .0025 - you'll be okay, just don't get too excited on the boost (stay below 8 lbs). Cam: Now you can completely get away with the cam you have - but why not put a bigger hydraulic roller in it? There is nothing like a big cam and a blower . . . the blower will calm it down a bit, but they do make HP together and the sound is awesome. If you're running a manual trans, then run an aluminum flywheel - that will contribute to the package in a light car. Just make sure your rockers, springs and pushrods are correctly setup. (Your springs might not be what you'll need). Glad that you're going to build your dream - something that I always wanted as well . . . a big bad-ass blown 392 in a 34 coupe. Built this engine about 7 years ago - has been in mothballs while I switched over to some big Bonneville projects and other cars. Finally digging the sucker back out - getting it in the chassis this spring/summer and over to Flop to work some chop magic on it. I've changed the carbs over to purpose built blower carbs to fire and break in the motor, but will then switch over to a Hilborn 4 port or an Enderle - have both, but haven't made up my mind yet. Good luck, you're doing exactly the right thing!
I put over 100k on my LS-7 454 with the blower with the single key for the crank hub. But I did double key the crank on the 427 in my Chevy II. Starting with a 1/4" key on a Hemi, I doubt it's needed, unless you intend to get crazy with boost. Small block Chevys have serious problems with the crank snout with blowers, I think that makes everyone just automatically assume that all blower motors need a double key on the crank hub. O ringing the heads....again, if you get crazy with boost, it's probably what you'd need to do. But I would get a better idea of how far you can go without doing it. Modest boost (like in the street blower motor we're talking about here) isn't hard on head gaskets.
I'd agree, but if you have the crank out of it and are having the lower end balanced anyway, might as well have the machine shop double key it to match the crank hub (which I'm sure will be double keyed).
For my 350 I started with a new 1970 LT-1 short block so I had 4 bolt mains, a forged crank and the Chevy pink rods. Pink rods had a different heat treat and were shot peened in the rod bolt area, and I had the rods bushed for floating pins. Bearings are Moraine 400 and I set the mains at .002 and the rods at .0025 with .020 side clearance. Pistons are forged, 8.5 compression, head gaskets are GM .015 steel shim sprayed with Copper Coat on both sides. Chevy big valve '186 heads were drilled on the front for 3/8 NPT with AN lines running to a divorced thermostat housing. The heads have 65 CC's and I used the 3927142 Chevy valve springs. Camshaft is the L79 hydraulic with GM lifters, pushrods and rockers. I had a '57 cast iron distributor so I used that with a good set of points, condenser and cap fired by an MSD-6. A Fluid Damper balancer, GM hi- perf oil pump, 'vette six quart pan and windage tray and a GM 15 pound L-88 style flywheel and diaphragm clutch complete the engine. Everything other than the Fluid Damper, a Lakewood bell, Weiand competition style intake, Sanderson headers and the Dyer blower drive is GM. Dyer set up the blower and used one of his rear end plates on it. BITD ( the Dark Ages now!) when I bought this stuff Dyer used an aluminum hub that was saw cut and relied on two pinch bolts to hold it tight to the blower shaft. That always concerned me so I turned a new hub from 4140 with a broached key slot and I milled the shaft for a 1/4" key. On top of the blower is the thin Weiand carb adapter with two 1850 Holleys in line, linkage is direct and carbs are not boost referenced. In fact, when I built this thing I never heard of that. The tune up is pretty basic, jets are 68's on the primary side, secondary metering plates drilled to .093 and 6.5 power valves. I generally run the blower at 15% under but have run it at 15% over a few times just for laughs but it was built only as a street engine to fulfill a life long dream. 10* initial, 34* total advance and probably the most controversial aspect of this whole thing is that I run vacuum advance. The vacuum canister is an Accel 730012 that they marketed for their old turbocharger kits. IIRC the advance gives 16* when loafing along on the highway, but when boost comes in it retards up to 10* at a rate of 2*/lb of boost.
I've noticed that mine runs better with more advance...but then, it's a BBC with old heads, which have huge chambers. 8.5:1 on 91 or 93 octane pump gas, I've had the advance above 40 no holes in pistons. Not a whole lotta boost, though, might get up to 8 at times, 6 is more common.
im running a single key way in my hemi that's putting out 15 lbs of boost. its been like that for years. tap the intake for a boost gauge. its the only way to know how much boost you are making. if you really want to get after this thing put a msd al-7 with boost retard. it will pull timing as the boost increases preventing detonation. your engine will thank you.
racer-x, is the AL-7 only usable with an MSD ignition system? I know they have a universal model boost timing master (MSD 5462) that can be used with any non-MSD distributor (although its kind of tough to locate). These guys have the best deal I've found: (http://www.optionsauto.com/prodinfo.asp?number=MSD-5462) - EM
I don't know. I run a locked out ready to run msd with a crank trigger. the box works with a 2-bar map sensor that's plumbed into the back of the manifold. it works great. at full boost I have it set to pull out 8 degrees of advance. its the only thing that would stop piston damage. controlling the heat in the combustion chamber is the way to make these engines live. they can be run without the fancy timing devices but not without giving up a bunch of power some place.
I love this response ! Maybe it's just me but I am still laughing ! By the way even your screen name is funny. It might fit many others but not you.
I,ve always run blowers on my rods.Started off years ago with a Wade RO34 on a Ford Essex V6 ,learnt a lot the hard way with that one. Had a blown 350 in my Austin A40 8:1 Pistons running 10lbs of boost covered 25000 miles.Here,s a pic of my first rod that was not going to be blown, some habits are hard to break.It,s a 354 and the Pistons etc should be here in the next few days just waiting on the boat now.
My son has the bug too.This is his blown 2 litre Zetec in his 48 Anglia makes 10lbs of boost and revs like 2 stroke.We are looking for a 4/71 but they are getting hard to find here in England.The Zetec is going to make way for a blown 327 when we finish my 34.
Were you gonna move the engine back, or crossmember forward at all? It looks like there is no room for a radiator.
If you use some common sense and take the advice posted, you should be fine. There are alot of fair ground cruiser cars around with big blowers that put out minimal boost, and are just looks, no threat to anyone but a honda civic. Build your engine FOR the blower, run some boost(within reason) and you will be very happy. My coupe has a purpose built 406 SBC for the blower, a 471 built by Gary Dyer. 59 olds rear 4:56 gears, TCI racing full manual trans. Is it fast? Wanna find out? Has it been reliable? YES! Also remember the Tune is very very important with a blower and boost. Can not stress that enough. Good luck with it and have fun. Keep us posted.
EM it's a Wade RO20 originally made for a 2 stroke Diesel engine.Here,s the same blower on the first engine we put in the car a little 1600cc Ford.
Well folks parts have just know started showing up. Got the first pair of Blower carbs Thanks "Dueced Up", most of the drive parts, maybe all of them, came in today as well as the blower manifold and the pulleys. Got the Block back from the machine shop, after having it decked and trued up. looks like I need the blower and the pistons which should be here this week. Then I will get this all together and then start the swap. Hate to have the car apart this early in the spring as I will miss some driving time, but I do have another model A so that takes some of the pain away. I will post some pictures later.
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