hello my name is jim starting build on 23 tbucket super bell axle with hair pins have spirit frame .hair pins seem to be to long to fit frame brackets. axle was assembled when I got it on cl.
yup. To long. How about cutting the hair pins shorter in the front for the correct lenghth and re threading them deeper.
At this point, a cut and rethread is going to be your easiest fix Before you get hasty, male sure your castor is close and the rods aren't upside down
Yes , the way I would go about it is to mount the hairpin , set your caster and pull apart your spring to your main leaf then you can see relation of spring center pin hole to perch center pin and take a measurement there ... With everything drooping and loose you can't get an accurate measurement... If its a t bucket .. Lots of them put the spring behind the axle on the batwing
Actually the hair pics are not too long the brackets are just in the wrong place. Its a matter of perspective I guess. Shortening the hair pics is easy unless you have no way to cut threads and do have a welded and a sawzall in which case moving the mounts is easier. Its really 6 of one or half a dozen I of the other. I would want to see the whole car but in most cases I prefer longer hair pins or radius rods, longer means smoother arcs.
MITCHLA...for God sake,DO NOT EVER USE A CONCRETE BLOCK FOR JACK STANDS....you will end up hurting yoursef
The Heim end is missing the Jam nut, that can cause big problems. I have always favored ford tie rod ends and the taper on the frame bracket, I like to grease them they last longer. The ends used in 4 Bars use a polymer material that does not require greasing and are a direct replacement for the Heim end. (see below statement on use of a large diameter washer , Grade 8 need I say?) Heim ends if used should also use a larger diameter washer that is larger than the "swivel" portion of the Heim end in case there is a failure the radius rod doesn't pull apart. Also you might need a spacer between the Heim end and the bracket so there is enough room for the end to swivel properly and not bind on the frame bracket.
I think your hairpins are on upside down. the shortest part goes on the top so that the axle will lean back. I might be seeing it wrong, but that is what I see. And Paul is right, your steering arm is on the wrong side too, at least from what I can see in that one picture. Don
A few suggestions on tapping the threads deeper; Get a quality tap and use plenty of "cutting" oil. Check I.D. of tubing for correct tap drill size at final full thread depth. If additional tap drill depth is required; drill before cutting tubing off as this will give a better guide for the drill. Clear out drill chips (and tap) often to avoid getting them stuck. Start out by running the tap in the existing threads as deep as the tap will allow before cutting off the long tubes, this will give a better tap starter if you end up removing most of the existing threads. A second run through with the tap after cutting off tubing may be required to get full thread engagement of the rod end.
I agree. You can cut those off, move them back a couple of inches and reweld them inside an hour. That would be my preference as I'd much rather do some welding than tap stuff. Ditto, pick up a set of jack stands. They're cheap. Cinder blocks will crumble w/o notice. Many people have been seriously injured or killed using them for jack stands.
Contact Spirit, since that is the frame you have. They can give you any info on correct parts you need.
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