sub rails for channeled car- lets see how you did it

I've got some ideas, but don't like them much.
I'd like to see how You guys:
A. attached them to the body
B. Finished of the back side against the outside of the frame
C. Dealt with the door bottoms
D. Mounted body to frame

Thanks a bunch

 

1 x 1 and 2 x 1 tubing. Body panels are welded to a perimeter frame.

Body mounts use rubber mounts off a '70s Holden (GM).



In the 3rd pic you can see one of the mount points on the frame just in front of the pedals



Pete

 

Nice job Pete,

 

I uses 2x4 thin guage square tubing,and laid it in the 90 of the subfloor rail,front to rear.I then used 3/4'' square tubing for my cross runners,hard to tell from my pics though.

 

I attached the subframe to the cab with welds, bolts & screws. Remember to use rubber when attaching the subframe to the frame. It's a 5-1/2"" channel.

 

Thanks fellas

Keep them coming

 

I've been looking for a thread like this. Let's see em fellas!!!

 

Here's a set that I am working on this week. It is 1" x 3" thin-wall, on the short side, along with the very outer edge of the original sub-rails (which was all that was left of them). The floor will be built from square tubing that attaches to the side of the 1" x 3" tubing. This is a 28-29 A closed cab pickup:

 

I thought I had a picture but I couldnt find it. I just used 2x1 square tube its pretty affordable and looks decent. just make a simple grid. I welded inserts in the top of my frame and the bolts go down threw the subframe. I used a thin piece of rubber in between the frame and subframe also.

 

I agree, great thread. I've been looking for some ideas for channeling my Model T Coupe over the frame.

 

Thanks for the response so far Guys.
This is a pretty tricky thing to do, I'm sure they're 1000 ways to do it.
So let's see em fellas

 

Come on guys, I know this isn't as much fun as cake pan air cleaners or ejection seats or pic king someone's color, but ......

I guess the builders are busy building

 

I'm sure each application is different for every car depending on how much channel you want or can get away with, just be sure and build a drive line loop into the structure. A sheet metal floor is just not enough protection should you twist one up. Just my 2 cents worth.

 

Tubing was later added vertically to the door posts to tie the floor to the cab. The bottom of the doors will be shortened and built into rocker panels. Make sure the doors fit and weld some cross bracing inside before you cut out the floor..

 

14 gauge hat channel with 3/4 16 gauge box tubing. strip of felt goes over the fraim rail and bolts the body to it.

 

Heres some of mine, I'm a tall lanky fella, and my body had already been chopped and I wanted to channel it so I channeled my subfloor of sorts too...






Frame/Body mounts:

 

Here's how i did mine square tube and bent some sheet metal to a 90' and shrunk it to fit in the cab corners.

 

here you can see whats on my hotrod

1x3 tubing

 

I left the main subrails in and trimmed them so they would fit over the frame, then built 4" risers to tie into the floor grid. At first the body was just sitting on two cross pieces. From there I just added til it was about right

 

looks great. simple and functional. http://www.ratrodauthority.com

 

I mock up the body and shim it to the height of the channel plus the compressed thickness of any padding your going to use



then I build the subrails directly on the chassis.



make sure your doors and such are all squared up so when your done you wont have to shim between teh frame and the subrails to get them lined back up. Check this often as your building.

when your ready to put it all together you can lay down your belting and bolt it up.

I use 3/8 well nuts drilled into the top of the frame and x member to mount the body/subrails. That truck got 7 per side in the cab and its wont come apart without a fight.

 

I built a 29 Roadster in 2005-2007, channeled it 4" with original subframe. Here's a few pictures to look at, there are many many more here.













Sectioned Firewall


Test fit on the chassis

 

Here's a couple of links to when I did my rpu:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=271050

And as I finally got the sheet metal floor panels in(a little further down the page):
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=352119&page=18


To finish up the door jams where the channel is, I fabbed up some door sill plates that bolt in place. Ended up working out really well. Hopefully this helps a bit

Dan:

 

This is getting to be one of those incredible HAMB threads.

Hot rod ingenuity, details, and craftsmanship .

 

This is how I did my 34, I wanted to use all sheetmetal and no tubing, I spotwelded everything together

 

Dodgeeodder, thanks for those links you came up with a really clean solution to a sticky problem. The tunnel looks to be heavy gauge material.

50 weight- boy is that smooth. I'm not really familiar with the 33-34 so forgive the dumb question here: did You need to narrow the frame to accomplish that, or stock width? Great work, looks like it grew that way!

Barnfind t, lots of great pics, and great solutions. Lot of work in That fire wall/ cowl nice job.

Da tinman - sweet & simple gotta love it. Did you do anything with the lower section of cowl ? Specifically is it tied to anything and closed off or does it just float?

 

I looked thru my pics and couldnt find any of the lower cowl, but its all braced and the floors were 16 gauge, leftovers from the bed.

everything is tied in and plenty strong and there are 2 body mounts at the base of the firewall in the toeboard area.

 

I just downloaded these pics., It looked like a nice way to do a floor on a channeled car. I hope they help. I am not sure who the car belongs to, but it is very well done.

 

IT SURE IS !

I'd like to see more of the underside & details of that one