I am running a pair of Super 97s, tall Weiand intake, Evan heads, NGK B-6L plugs. Cam is a regrind from Pete, 1007B .365 lift with a 255 duration. I am running the accelerator pump in the winter mode. It's running rich, any ideas? Thanks
Question is your rich condition at low speed and with the engine cold or at high sped and the engine warm?
I've never seen a Super97 but I've played with original 97's. What size jets are you running? Have you tried smaller ones? Is the power valve being adjusted so that is open or closed going down the road?
You aren't running these air cleaners are you? If so, take them off immediately. My car was so rich it would barely run. Took them off and it runs perfect. They were choking it to death.
I look at it like this. First is it a carb issue or an ignition issue.Since you didnt specify what style engine you have, lets start here. First is to check the spark, you should start the engine and then using insulated pliers, pull one of the spark plug wires while it is running and move it to about 3/8" from the head, a strong white blue spark should jump from the terminal to the head as the cylinder fires. A good strong spark usually indicates good ignition. If you have a weak yellow blue spark you have an ignition issue and should recheck the point gap and the timing advance, also if you have a remote coil check to see if you have it wired on the correct polarity. A recheck of the ignition timing is also a good idea as well especially if you have an 8ba style engine distriubutor if its lazy it will fire late and show a rich condition. What have you got?
If you are running a pair, then they are hooked together. The motor needs a bit more than stock, you are giving it twice a stock output. Go lean on the pumps and smaller on the main jets. I had my old 97's off six times before I was happy with them. Keep at it, the end result is all smiles.
Now if the ignition checks out ok the next is the fuel system. First there is nothing really wrong with the 9 super 7's so lets look at this further. Now the question is is the black plug dry black from fuel or damp black from oil. If its a damp black did you install the "o" ring on the intake guides? Next note, like a previous post remove the air cleaners and see if it makes a difference. There are some cheapy air cleaners out there that a turbine could pull air thru. Pop the air cleaners and take the car for a good spin and do a plug check to see if the black condition has lightended up. If it does swap the air cleaner elements. NOw if you have a Hi rise intake, this takes forever to heat the carbs up so the gas atomizes correctly. I had one on my last engine and it took forever for the engine to run correctly because the gas did not atomize in the long runners. It is not that it didnt work it just always had dark plugs so you might be chasing something you cant easily cure. Next trail, with the carbs is the season position, since you dont need a rich acellerator pump condition to start the engine in the summer , switch the pump rod to the summer position. After doing this take the car for a good high speed run on the 4 lane at 50-60 mph and run for about 20 miles at high speed. Before you get off the exit kill the engine and coast off to the side. Pull a couple plugs at this time to do a high speed check, You are looking to see the color change they should be grey to whiteish with this new yuppie fuel, if they are still black black then it will involve a little more tear down. This should get you started, remember two carbs require more fuel because they increase the air intake so dont believe this crap about smaller jets being necessary. Plus with the new ethanol fuels you need more fuel to the engine so leaning it down on the low speed really leans it down on the high speed and then you have heat issues. Post back your findings.
I am running Bubba's Chevy dizzy and the Speedway air cleaners shown above. I just set the accelerator pumps to summer and it is black and sooty not oil. This is a brand new motor so there should be no o-ring issues. I will be running to York Nats this weekend a 50 mile one way trip so I can play with the air cleaners and I have a tall Weiand so I guess I will play with it this weekend. Dick if you go to York look me up I'm driving this.
"...and the Speedway air cleaners shown above..." Don't mess with anything until you remove those and roadtest. Some of these older engines require air to burn the gas right... Don't know anything at all about the speedway carbs but those air cleaners are a BIG RED FLAG YOU WANT TO CHECK FIRST
I disagree with Dick here. I've played with a set out of curiosity and they don't consistently process the air/fuel mixture anywhere as well as an original stromberg or the genuine reproductions. The carbs I played with and tested on my '39 were quite literally junk. That said, sounds like you are consistently rich. So maybe your carbs are better than mine were... I would definitely take your air cleaners off, re-drive, and reassess.
I had two sets of the NGK plugs in my flatty and the car ran like complete crap. Seemed rich, hard to start, etc. Switched to Champions and it was a night and day difference for what its worth.
I used to run the louvre style air filters on my flatty not realising how restrictive they were. I knocked over a second from my quarter mile e.t. just by taking them off! Definitely the first thing to try.
Its not the chrome houseings i dont think. Its that little paper element. They wouldnt flow shit after about 400 miles on my two carb flatty. would run rich then wouldnt idle. I made some out of some very fine wire mesh i got from mccaster car, in a sample pack. those work great and i end up haveing to wash them off as they catch fine dust. I did a thread somewhere on how i made them.
I have a "trio" of English 97 Strombergs on the coupe, no issues, plug and play! Sure they cost more than the chinese super 97's but in the long run its worth it not to have issues.
Ditto, Try remove the air cleaners ...Always try the simple thing first,... As to NGK spark plugs... My Offy "400" heads required using plugs with a longer reach; The H10 's were far too short, and it ran super bad , due to the plug tip being "recessed" in the plug hole. NGK happened to be the only brand, who made the correct reach, and matched the H 10 heat range. I'm certain someone can list other brands,..which would also do the job. 4TTRUK
Ps; Mine are the English Strombergs....and ditto the "plug n play". These repops require the 3 lb max fuel pressure, just as the "old" ones do. 4TTRUK
When I was running the four little air cleaners on the 97's on my hemi I used oiled gause filters like K&N. Little but flowed great.
The coupe is now in the UK and this past weekend we have been trying to still solve th problem. Wish we had read this first...... Well this is what we did. We have down jetted the jets to 93's fitted new plugs and a petronex kit. this was for my own reasons. we found it was still running rich, without airfilters its too lean at speed and banged and spluttered. We had some luvered ones so tryed them that made some difference. It's still over rich on idol I do want to try some champion plugs as I've never had much like with NGK plugs unless they are in Rice burners and they dont like champions. One other thing we want to try is hotter plugs but is that a higher or lower number?? I'll let you know if we get to the bottom of it without changing the carbs.
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