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Stretching a Model A hood. Info needed.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Bob 1743, Feb 9, 2012.

  1. Bob 1743
    Joined: Jan 1, 2006
    Posts: 447

    Bob 1743
    Member

    I'm looking to stretch a 1930 Model A Coupe hood. Top only, no sides. Want to make it about 5" longer. It looks like some pie cuts will have to be made to adjust for curvature as the top wraps around to the side. Also have to keep the belt line (bead) straight. Has anyone done this, where are the cuts made? Photos, drawings, anything will help.
    Thanks,
    Bob
     
  2. Deuce Roadster
    Joined: Sep 8, 2002
    Posts: 9,519

    Deuce Roadster
    Member Emeritus

    I had a friend do this some year back. He just called Rootlieb and told them what he wanted and within about 2 weeks ... UPS bought it to his door. Fit Perfect !!
     
  3. Bob 1743
    Joined: Jan 1, 2006
    Posts: 447

    Bob 1743
    Member

    Deuce,

    Any idea of the price tag?
    Where is Rootlieb located.
    Bob
     
  4. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,903

    need louvers ?
    Member

    Turlock, California. This is really the bast way to go about this deal.
     

  5. pasadenahotrod
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 11,775

    pasadenahotrod
    Member
    from Texas

    Great advice. If your measurements are correct you'll get a great fit!
     
  6. aerocolor
    Joined: Oct 7, 2009
    Posts: 1,209

    aerocolor
    Member
    from dayton

    I added two inches to the hood of my `30 coupe but it was a two pc stock top. Took a couple of different templates to make the curve come out right and I formed the bead by hammering over a piece of roundstock using a wood block. Worked out ok in the end.
     

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  7. Bob 1743
    Joined: Jan 1, 2006
    Posts: 447

    Bob 1743
    Member

    I see that Aerocolor added sheet metal at the nose. I was thinking of making a cut across the hood, midway between the cowl & radiator & adding a patch panel. This will create problems with the curvature of the hood and it's width. I am hoping that pie cuts will solve this.
    Once again I ask, has anyone done this successfully.
    Bob
     
  8. I almost think it would be easier to make a new hood that trying to Frankenstein something back together.....this is just my opinion. :D
     
  9. the metalsurgeon
    Joined: Apr 19, 2009
    Posts: 1,237

    the metalsurgeon
    Member
    from Denver

  10. David Chandler
    Joined: Jan 27, 2007
    Posts: 1,101

    David Chandler
    Member

    I'm glad someone posted this. I will have to do the same sooner or later myself.
     
  11. the metalsurgeon
    Joined: Apr 19, 2009
    Posts: 1,237

    the metalsurgeon
    Member
    from Denver


    I make custom lengthened hoods.This custom hood and sides for a 34 truck 3" longer than stock.

    my weekly metal work blog www.themetalsurgeon.com
     

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  12. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 30,792

    The37Kid
    Member

    Nice looking hood! I've always wondered how you roll the metal to form the hinge on hoods. Is that something you could explain to us? Also are the long louvers punched or made with a PulMax?:) Bob
     
  13. Bob 1743
    Joined: Jan 1, 2006
    Posts: 447

    Bob 1743
    Member

    I'm sorry to say I haven't got the skills or tools to fabricate a hood from scratch. I can deal with a couple of cuts & welds, but need the basic shape to start with. In addition I am a firm believer in building my own car, it will never be show quality, but it will be mine. Anyone can buy stuff, in fact you can buy the whole completed car for just 20K or so, but what is the fun of that? There is no challenge in writing checks. I'm going to keep working on this until I am satisfied with the result. I may post some photos later, so you all can get a good laugh.
     
  14. Bob 1743
    Joined: Jan 1, 2006
    Posts: 447

    Bob 1743
    Member

    I'm posting some photos, for those interested. I usually have a hard time with photos, but will try
     

    Attached Files:

  15. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,404

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage

    just my 2 cents...5" is a lot

    also my opinion..its going to throw the model A proportions way off..
    if looks, and proportions are important to you, you might want to mock this up before you jump that far
     
  16. Now this is the best post I've seen on here in a long time. My sentiments exactly. My build time would have halved if I'd written some checks out, but then I wouldn't honestly be able to say "yeah I built it all myself". I like your attitude, we need more of it.
     
  17. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,297

    swissmike
    Member

    I don't see how adding in the middle is ever going to get a fair contour, at least at the end it's not as obvious.
     
  18. the metalsurgeon
    Joined: Apr 19, 2009
    Posts: 1,237

    the metalsurgeon
    Member
    from Denver



    Agreed.adding the middle or ends will not work,because you have a set cowl and rad shell end profiles.

    my weekly metal work blog www.themetalsurgeon.com
     
  19. aerocolor
    Joined: Oct 7, 2009
    Posts: 1,209

    aerocolor
    Member
    from dayton

    Model A hoods start looking too long when stretched over 3" and the proportions just go downhill after that point unless it`s a lowboy salt flat style build.
    Of course that`s just my opinion.
     
  20. Da' Bomb
    Joined: Apr 8, 2005
    Posts: 438

    Da' Bomb
    Member

    I'm building mine too. Stretched about the same. I made the ends using 18 ga. angle, forming the contour with a stretcher.
    Next up is getting on the roller....should be good times. Another alternative would be rough forming and finding a buddy with an English Wheel for the smoothing.

    If you need pics of progress, drop me a PM

    Pat
     
  21. Bob 1743
    Joined: Jan 1, 2006
    Posts: 447

    Bob 1743
    Member

    Sometimes you have to work with what you have. My chassis was fabricated 3 1/2 inches longer to accommodate an 8 Cyl Flathead. After installing the engine, I found I had to move the radiator 1 inch forward to make room for the fan. I do not like electric fans. I could have moved the motor mounts back, but already had a drive shaft made & trans mounts installed, exhaust system too. It gets complicated. I decided to live with a longer engine compartment. In a few days I will mock up this hood on the car and get a better idea of what it will look like. Worst case is that I go hoodless, which is where I started. You can't knock a guy for trying.
     
  22. the metalsurgeon
    Joined: Apr 19, 2009
    Posts: 1,237

    the metalsurgeon
    Member
    from Denver


    can you post some pics on this thread,with the hood on the car.thanks

    my weekly metal work blog www.themetalsurgeon.com
     
  23. Bob,
    I had the same thoughts mounting a y-block in an A. Had the #4 ex port behind the firewall, so I moved the front x-member and m/mounts forward and got fan clearence. Couldn't see putting an A together with the y-block and then add an electric fan. I'll be trying to make a one piece top when the time comes.
    RB
     
  24. Bob 1743
    Joined: Jan 1, 2006
    Posts: 447

    Bob 1743
    Member

    Metalsurgeon,
    It's midnight (Fri.) where I am, I'll see if I can get this hood placed on the car tomorrow & post a photo or two. It may be difficult, I'm working alone & this thing is delicately clamped together.
    Bob
     
  25. 1950ChevySuburban
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 6,187

    1950ChevySuburban
    Member Emeritus
    from Tucson AZ

    I'm interested in this as well. I may just run a hood top, but it will look good between my '29 sedan body and my '27 Essex grille, and I will metalwork it myself.
     
  26. Demono
    Joined: Dec 14, 2011
    Posts: 16

    Demono
    Member

    Why would you need to streach it so far. I added 2" to my '31 coupe hood, small block chev, with '32 shell. Added 18 gauge to the front like a patch panel. "simple"
     

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