Hot Rods stock powerglide question

I saw where someone was selling the big O-ring for the two halfs. You know you'll need that.
Maybe that's all it needs. If you want to take it apart yourself , I'll help you raise the stall up some.
You'll only need some simple tools. Might get 5-600 more out of it anyway.
If there's a big problem in there, you can always box it up and send it off somewhere.
Let me know.
Might be a first for the HAMB

 

HELL YEAH, LETS DO IT!!!!

 

Okay. Loosen all the bolts up just a little and separate the two halfs..slightly. Prop it up on it's side for about a day and let it drain. Then set it on the bench , hub down ( the part that goes into the trans).
Unbolt the cover. Lift off the cover only, and set it aside. STOP here .Take a picture..Report back here. I'll see the post.

 

How about I find a local Arizona convertor and have it dropped on your doorstep!

 

Nah. I might be moving in a few months. I've got enough here to finish up now.
Usually on the computer after dinner anyway. I'd rather do it here, for the archives, if you know what I mean.

 

Virtually ALL large cities, like L.A., have converter rebuilding shops. They may not be a big name racing company, but there are several big name racing converter companies in California; just check your phone book. Take YOUR torque converter in, and have it worked over. Even though it's the old style, bolt together converter, they should be able to do something with it, and if they can't, then they can make a converter tailored to YOUR cars/trucks setup. IF I was working with a cast iron Powerglide, that's what I would probably do. However, there may not be enough support to the "spokes" on your stock flexplate to safely drill holes in order to bolt a more modern converter to it. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

Yup, there is no shortage of shops in LA: https://www.google.com/search?q=tor...e..69i57j0.10679j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

 

I'm surprised there are so many shops.

 

Guys, These are mostly rebuild shops. He wants to raise the stall speed up a bit. It is a bolt together converter.
What do you suppose they are going to do to it?
Marvin sold A-1 and it moved to Washington. Continental closed down . Those are the only two that I know of that have enough sense to fool with something like this.
Yes, someone could take a 10" with a 10.5 bp and add to the tabs and move the holes out to 12", but like I said in the beginning, it ain't gonna be cheap.

 

Continental was the best!!!

 

Yup, good people. They helped me out of a jam more than once.

 

Put a 700R4 in it, and be done with it.

 

I have a cast Powerglide that I'll GIVE you - just buy me lunch or some beer! I'm in El Cajon, just off of I-8.

 

Cool, thank you!
I'll find someone to pick it up and bring it here to L.A.

 

Send me a PM when you might want it, and we'll swap phone numbers. It's still attached to the motor. -Tim

 

It'll be interesting to see if we can actually get a little more power out of one of these convertors.

Watch out, we may start a cast powerglide trend for the stovebolt guys!

 

I thought he already had an iron glide? Let Mark walk you through the convertor deal. I want to follow along on this. Lippy

 

Yeah what Lippy said.
Sure it setting the pitch on some fins.

 

1960 C10 SWB with PG (RPO 311) was came with 3.90 gears, or optional 3.38 (RPO 215).

4120# curb weight

Source: GM Heritage Center publication on 1960 truck series

 

I'm about to aska question that has probably been asked to death.

I daily drive the crap out of my cast powerglide and sometimes in the morning when I start her up, the trans fluid dumps on the ground from the bottom of the trans but doesn't do it while I drive. I think it does it also when I park it but I'm not sure of that.