Well, that's an interesting point. My explanation neglected to take mixing and heat transfer within the fluid into account. I'd like to see it in person and examine where the temp gauge is taking its reading from, and back it up with additional measurements along the path of coolant flow.
You can lead a horse to water but.....here's cooling system 101: http://www.familycar.com/Classroom/CoolingSystem.htm So's you don't have to read the whole thing, here's the deal: "It is possible for the coolant to move so fast, that it will not be properly cooled as it races through the radiator, so the engine can run even hotter than before under certain conditions." Here endeth the lesson.
With my car I fill it to the top. It spits out what it does not want or need Then drive it until winter then dump out the plain water and fill with coolant for winter. The only time it needs water is if like now the water pump leaks or I blow a head gasket. The water level in my A is just under the baffle. The baffle plays a big part in keeping the coolant from going out the tube and making the engine running hot. I see lots of radiators missing the baffle ( lazy repair guys) My 67 Chevy truck doesn't have a over flow tank. I do the same thing let it find it's happy spot and drive. 18 years driving that truck with a hopped up 427 under the hood
I can see a flat washer potentially helping for two reasons, but neither one has anything to do with velocity of the coolant. The first reason is that it would act as a "turbulator" to break up the laminar flow of coolant and give better mixing of fluid, and better heat transfer to the radiator tubes. (A big issue, as noted above by BigChief.) Industry wisdom: "Fluid can flow in laminar, transitional, and turbulent modes. When flow is laminar and at low velocities in a tube, there is little or no fluid movement immediately next to the tube wall. This layer of stagnant fluid hinders heat transfer and acts as insulation. Faster, turbulent flow has no smooth velocity gradient. The jumbled, tumbled flow pattern can disrupt much of the stationary fluid film. Built-in obstructions to flow, called turbulators, disrupt laminar flow, thereby improving heat transfer. Although these obstructions to flow increase pressure drop through the heat exchanger, the improvement in heat transfer more than compensates for the higher pressure drop." From:http://hydraulicspneumatics.com/200...s/Article/False/6451/TechZone-FluidPowerAcces The second reason is that the flow restriction of the washer would have resulted in a pressure drop across the washer. The pressure between the pump and the washer would have been higher than with no flow restriction. If the pressure of the coolant in the engine block was raised, then the boiling point of the coolant would also be raised. That's a really good thing, and would have allowed better heat transfer from the engine to the coolant. It would be especially important if straight water was used. So it may have acted as a "mini" pressurized cooling system, in the days before pressure radiator caps.
Acutally I think specifics is my issue. It is effecting my specificity. But at least these guys agree with me: http://www.circletrack.com/enginetech/ctrp_0910_critical_engine_cooling_technology/viewall.html http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/14...apability_in_high-performance_automobiles.htm http://www.xtrememotorworks.com/Cooling.htm
i have a friend that worked for the railroad in the '50's drove his model A back and forth to the train station every day, year round with only water in it. he said he would close the drain cock fill it with water in the morning and drain it when he got to work, then repeat for the ride home.
I drove an A bone with a banger motor for six years winter and summer. Treat her decent and she ran just fine. Push 'er and she'd spit a drop or two out the cap. Push 'er real hard and she'd perk you a cup of coffee. But, going back to where all this began, if somebody told me I could drive my banger at interstate speeds, I tell him he can sit atop my radiator and jold my cap on 'cause she's gonna blow!
Now I am thinking a dirty radiator might be better. Will the dirt help break up the laminar flow of the coolant ? Just thinking out loud
No, it will act like a cozy blankey and keep your car snug and warm. ... Ok, I read your links. The Circle Track article doesn't say anything about fixing overheating by adding flow restrictors. It alludes to using them in certain situations, but never says why. It actually does refer to turbulators and explains why they work ... just like I did above. ... Arrowhead radiator doesn't agree with you. A direct quote: However, Arrowhead does point out some downsides to excessive coolant flow. I agree with them, it shouldn't be excessive. But they are referring to extreme situations, and I don't think you will see insane coolant flow rates with 80-year-old water pumps. Xtrememotorworks also doesn't agree with your idea of the processes at work. However, upon re-reading it, I see that they do agree with you that in the old days, some people found a use for flow restrictors in certain situations. Here is the quote from them: Okay, so there's a decent explanation of why you might want a flow restrictor at high RPM, like you might see in a hot rod. But that explanation also points out that the dwell time of the coolant was never the problem. The problem was restriction in the radiator causing a flow backup and popping the low-pressure radiator cap. Thanks for doing the legwork and finding additional backup for my argument. But listen, I don't argue just to argue. I want the truth out there. What these quotes say about the subject agrees with what I know about it. And that is why I am defending that point. I don't want to show anyone up. I don't like being shown up either, but if anyone can provide me with a decent explanation of why things work in a way that goes against my thinking, I will give it a hearing. It's just that I am not going to throw out my education and my thought process based on single sentences like, "It works this way, because I say so."
No doubt you will take from all this what you will. This was not about restrictors. My comment was if coolant pushed through a radiator too fast it will not cool properly. Each of these articles backs that up. You do not agree. So be it.
Fine, look at it however you want. I think your sources' references to "mistaken beliefs" and "common misconceptions" are the relevant points here. But we'll agree to disagree.
real life, no egghead/pocket protector scientific quantum algarythem proof, but i have found, on many model A's that they run hot if they are adjusted too lean, they run hot if the timing is off, they run hot and push water out of the cap if the radiator is plugged, and they run hot and push water out with blown head gaskets. otherwise they are fine to run as bcchopit wrote and experienced.
I had my first of 6 model A's in 1952. I never had a stock A that would run 75. the fastest I ever run with a stock A was 72 downhill. As far as thermostats there were none. the washer deal worked to a point but was not a cure. The thermostat in the winter when closed holds the water in the engine block longer and when it warms up the thermostat opens and the coolent starts cooling. thats my story and I'm sticken it.
Did you have the Moto Meter for any of them? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Antique-Boy...730?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2573d827b2
Actually I had the radiator recored. (Hell of a time finding someone around here to do that now) I did have a spell were it would overheat a lot even around town. Talked to an old "A Bone" guy. He said check the trans lube. I'll be damned if he wasn't right. Trans was darn near empty. Filled 'er up and ran fine. Made me appreciate the delicate balance of nature visavi the cooling system in my "A".
Back in the day, they used Alcohol, Anti-Freeze not Available. Now don't you young guns think you can use Jack Daniels, that would be a waste !
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