OK, my hunter/gathering process for my '60 Ford ragtop is proceeding and I'm slowly acquiring the bits I need. I picked up a rough but complete '58-60 T-bird steering column/wheel as I can't stand the OEM 'boomerang' wheel that Ford saddled this car with. It's going to take a fair amount of mods to fit this and as I'm also planning an upgrade to a Borgeson power steering box that adds even more to the mix. Now, Fords of this vintage all used a one piece steering box/shaft with the bottom of the column attached directly to the box. I can't do that with the new one, so the question is which is better to connect the box to the shaft? As built, the column only has a top bearing/bushing, so if I use a all-metal u-joint I can forgo a lower bearing. But as convertibles are known for flexing more, I'm concerned with maintaining the correct column-to-wheel gap which my research shows to be an issue for proper operation of the horn/turn signal switch on these, particularly without the column anchored firmly to the box. So I'm leaning heavily in favor of a rag joint rather than an all-metal joint. The OEMs used them on nearly everything so reliability shouldn't be a problem and they can absorb any small movement/misalignment, allowing me to lock the shaft in place in the column to maintain distance. I'll use bearings top and bottom for the shaft to ride in. Yes, they're a bit ugly and bulky, but I have the room and as this will be a 'hood closed' custom appearance isn't an issue. Just a nice paint detailing, no chrome. Any comments? Does this make sense? As a side note, Borgeson makes a rag joint for this, but I'm a bit spooked by the fact that they offer a 'rebuild kit' for theirs. I've never seen a bad OEM one unless it's been damaged somehow and at less than 1/2 the money for a OEM type, that kit gives me pause...
""So I'm leaning heavily in favor of a rag joint rather than an all-metal joint. The OEMs used them on nearly everything so reliability shouldn't be a problem and they can absorb any small movement, allowing me to lock the shaft in place in the column to maintain distance. I'll use bearings top and bottom for the shaft to ride in."" ^^^ Is the way I would go, with the best quality rag joint you can find as I think the one in my ot conversion [borg] just let go. I don't remember where horn wire goes. Need any of the stuff in pic you can have for shipping.
Ford got rid of the horn-wire-inside-the-shaft in '58, so at least I don't have to deal with that... Sending you a PM...
Usually takes a few decades for an OEM rag joint to go bad...either dries out and tears, or gets oil soaked and tears. GM used a strap or wire or screen to ground the two flanges to each other, to make sure the horn worked...since the button usually got ground from the steering shaft.
Rag joints are fine if they are not binding. They are designed to absorb vibration and keep it from being transmitted to the steering wheel. They are not universal joints and will are not designed to compensate for misalignment.
I figure that any misalignment will be very small if any. I'm not going to use it for an angle change. All metal connections will be less forgiving.
^^^^^ THIS^^^^^^ he nailed it. Rag joints were never intended to do a bunch of flexing to make up for the steering box and shaft not being aligned. Their original purpose was and is to take a bit of the shock out of the steering wheel when you drive down the road. If you have ever done a bunch of distance driving in same model cars such as a 66 or 67 Mustang where the earlier car had a solid shaft and the newer one had the shaft separate from the box with the rag joint your hands know the difference after a 500 mile day.
40 yrs of auto work and I'd prefer to run a rag joint on anything I build. I like the ability of the rag to cushion and soften vibrations and dampen pot holes etc transferance to the steering wheel. Still trying out how to run one on my model A. Thinking about mounting it to the bottom of the column and then running the rest from the rag on to the steering gear. Agreed too, run oem, it's cheaper, can be ordered thru local parts store and many many years of a proven track record.
I much prefer the column has a bearing at the top, and at least a bushing (prefer a bearing) at the bottom, with the column securely mounted. Then the linkage between the box and the column can have U joints to cover misalignment, and a vibration damper of some kind. That vibration damper can be either a rag joint, or one from an aftermarket steering shaft provider. With both ends of the column mounted securely, a ujoint in line, and a vibration damper, your long drives will be a lot less stressful. Gene
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