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Steer Clear steering box

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Rodder29, Mar 12, 2011.

  1. Rodder29
    Joined: Jan 26, 2009
    Posts: 184

    Rodder29
    Member

  2. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,333

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I have not installed any, but have seen them on plenty of cars that have come through my shop. Nobody was complaining. It seems highly unlikely that you you would see something like this:


    "
    2006 Best Engineered New Product at SEMA"

    ...If it was not a good product.
     
  3. metal man
    Joined: Dec 4, 2005
    Posts: 2,955

    metal man
    Member

    Exactly what I was thinking
     
  4. Chaz
    Joined: Feb 24, 2004
    Posts: 5,016

    Chaz
    Member Emeritus

    They work well. A cool product.
     

  5. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,355

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    These will likely withstand a lot more force than some of the other components often seen in steering linkages. Besides, it's on the "easy" side of the steering force applied, ahead of the gear reduction of the steering box or rack. Would not be at all reluctant to use one if I had an application where it was needed.

    Ray
     
  6. Rodder29
    Joined: Jan 26, 2009
    Posts: 184

    Rodder29
    Member

    Does anyone have any pictures of the unit mounted?
     
  7. unkledaddy
    Joined: Jul 21, 2006
    Posts: 2,865

    unkledaddy
    Member

    [​IMG]
     
  8. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 11,624

    Atwater Mike
    Member

    I used to see renditions of this idea on 'Sportsman' rounders. At the time, it was laughable. (some of the engineering and attempts to align the sprockets were less than admirable)
    There is a '30 Highboy around here that has a rendition of that setup. The owner was explaining its advantages to a Joe Citizen type at a picnic/outdoor show.
    I amused myself by imagining going into NAPA and asking for a steering sprocket.
    This setup would have been beyond the last ditch for most traditional minded rod builders. (so would the multi U-joint bare 3/4" steering mast running past the engine)
     
  9. Rodder29
    Joined: Jan 26, 2009
    Posts: 184

    Rodder29
    Member

    I hear what your saying Mike on the traditional based side of things. I need more leg room, and think this might be the way to go.
     
  10. xlr8
    Joined: Jun 26, 2006
    Posts: 700

    xlr8
    Member
    from Idaho

    I don't know what size the chain is, but if you can imagine trying to pull even a bicycle chain in two with your bare arms, I think you can see that there can't possibly be an issue of the chain being strong enough. How could it be unsafe?
     
  11. CutawayAl
    Joined: Aug 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,144

    CutawayAl
    Member
    from MI

    I agree, but based on how thick the unit appears to be it is possible there is a tooth belt inside rather than a chain?

    I don't see any question as to whether this is a workable idea, but it could be unsafe. Any number of shortcomings could make it unsafe. The question is not whether this unit is a good idea, but whether it is made as it should be.
     
  12. Toymont
    Joined: Jan 4, 2005
    Posts: 1,381

    Toymont
    Member
    from Montana

    If I remember right (which isn't often) these things have a double chain in them. We saw a lakester at Bonneville that had something similar as a steering reverser. Had a single bike chain with no cover and he ran well over 200 mph
     
  13. Doesn't look too difficult to make your own using timing chain, sprockets and bearings.
     
  14. brigrat
    Joined: Nov 9, 2007
    Posts: 5,620

    brigrat
    Member
    from Wa.St.

    Just a little slop in a home made unit would relate to a "mushy" steering feeling, I would think an adjustable tensioner of some sort would be in order...........................
    Since the in & out shafts are a fixed position it would have to be a chain tensioner.
    With a little thought of gear size a guy could change his or her steering ratio!
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2011
  15. 61bone
    Joined: Feb 12, 2005
    Posts: 890

    61bone
    Member

    Seems to me that the NSRA will not certify a car that is running one of these. Wouldn't know why though. A single #40 chain will transmit up to 40 HP at 1500 fpm for an average expected life of about 12,000 hours when run in a wet case. Wouldn't run as a reverser though, it would need gears to do that.
     
  16. outlaw256
    Joined: Jun 26, 2008
    Posts: 2,022

    outlaw256
    Member

    i been wanting to go this route on a glass 41 willys but at that price i had to back off.now if i could fiqure out to mount 2 crank gears and a double roller on a flat piece of steel where it will turn and not rub ill build my own.
     
  17. Nocero
    Joined: May 16, 2002
    Posts: 489

    Nocero
    Member

    Couldn't stomach the price so I built my own. I had thought about doing a tech thread but until i test and have used it probably not a good idea. I have under $100 bucks in it with bearings, gears, chain,splined shaft, and steel. I'm going to run it back and forth on a lathe a couple hrs each way and take it apart to inspect it. If it looks good I'll try it out.
     
  18. Nocero
    Joined: May 16, 2002
    Posts: 489

    Nocero
    Member

    Pics didn't work lets try again.
     

    Attached Files:

  19. Rodder29
    Joined: Jan 26, 2009
    Posts: 184

    Rodder29
    Member

  20. CutawayAl
    Joined: Aug 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,144

    CutawayAl
    Member
    from MI

    Whether justified or not, if something bad happens lawyers tend to sue everyone possible. That being the case, I suspect some potential legal expense is factored into the cost for these units.


    I like splines too, but they can be a problem. Machining specs can vary from one manufacturer to another, and OEM stuff typically has rolled splines. Rolled OEM splines are notorious for variation. OEMs use a pinchbolt to clamp the splines, so if things are in the ballpark you end up with a tight joint. Aftermarket splines are usually solid. Fit is more critical with no pinch bolt. Combining aftermarket splines from different manufacturers, or aftermarket and OEM splines, can sometimes result in a poor fit.
     
  21. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 8,766

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    I guess I'm a bit stumped about the whole idea that this is not traditional. I think we sometimes get so caught up in the idea of strictly traditional rods that we end up making something less user friendly or uncomfortable (less driveable) just to keep it "traditional".
    I'm sure when hotrods were being built in the 50's the guys building them would have jumped with joy to have good universal joints, or a Steer Clear box to make life easier.
     
  22. 1950ChevySuburban
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 6,187

    1950ChevySuburban
    Member Emeritus
    from Tucson AZ

    I've considered making my own with motorcycle chain and a couple same-size spockets. Load it with an adjustable tensioner, away you go!
    Maybe make the cover out of sheet metal, the rounded ends can be salvaged from Ford 2.3 timing belt covers.
     
  23. Dreddybear
    Joined: Mar 31, 2007
    Posts: 6,090

    Dreddybear
    Member

    Guys would have jumped at an LS7 too but that's not the point. The billet speedway ones are way not traditional... but it doesn't matter though, some guys may need it. I made my car WAY less drivable and uncomfortable just to stick to the a style from the period and I love it. It's a pain in the ass to drive which is part of the charm. I have seen chain setups on vintage racecars, but I don't have any pics.

    NOCERO I like how you hid yours, looks good:) I have seen some really clever chain drive setups that seem to work great. Pics:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  24. CutawayAl
    Joined: Aug 3, 2009
    Posts: 2,144

    CutawayAl
    Member
    from MI

    This topic seems to come up a lot here.

    Using a part or technology because it would have been used if it had existed at the time doesn't make it authentic. On the other hand, there are a lot of "automotive Amish" on this forum. By that I mean some select parts or technologies are acceptable while others are blasphemy. I doubt anyone here uses methanol anti-freeze, antiquated lubricants, or cotton cord tires. And most prefer modern paint types and colors, and modern vinyl wiring insulation. But you can be shunned for using other comparable modernizations.
     
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2011
  25. mj40's
    Joined: Dec 11, 2008
    Posts: 3,303

    mj40's
    Member

    I had a friend order one from Speedway. It took over a year to get it. Set him back on his build. He called the manufacture and they were not building them until the orders reached a set number of units. Hope all that has changed. Other than that he loves his.
     
  26. 1950ChevySuburban
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 6,187

    1950ChevySuburban
    Member Emeritus
    from Tucson AZ

    [​IMG]


    With normal driving, would one worry about dirt ruining the chain? I like the exposed chain look.
     
  27. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,333

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I doubt it. I ride a motorcycle running a high-speed, single-row chain, transmitting high horsepower (for a motorcycle), over the open road, for thousands of miles-per-year, with just occasional cleaning.

    A double-row chain, transmitting 1/6hp (human power), slowly, largely out of harms way, should be just fine.
     
  28. Nocero
    Joined: May 16, 2002
    Posts: 489

    Nocero
    Member

    The way I see it regular dirt and debris probably won`t be a problem open. Look at what motocross bikes run in every weekend. The chains are regularly cleaned and lubed tho. The main concern I had that made me inclose it was if a rock, pebble, or who knows what got lodged in the chain and sprockets. Your not turning a high speed like a bike is that itself would probably deflect alot.
     
  29. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 11,624

    Atwater Mike
    Member

    I was building rods in the '50s. San Jose, CA. I saw 3 or 4 with some industrial 'U' jointed steering shafts to get past large OHV engines...they were laughable, as they looked like something off a farm implement, rather than a "cut down hot rod", with automotive origins.

    I used a variety of steering setups then: Biggest departure from convention was the position of the box. My '30 channeled roadster (deuce rails) was low, and the angle of drag link with '48 F1 steering box necessitated moving the box upward, on top of the rail in a molded-in box that was faired into the frame. Looked and worked good, all SAE approved automotive components.
    Another channeled 'A' got the box moved back, with a longer drag link. Steering was a little more 'vertical', but comfortable.
    I used a '40 cross-steer in a '32 roadster for a friend, very smooth, and the box mounted forward of the original position, but nicely inside the drivers side rail. Length of column was good, and retained the column shift with 331 Cad mill and '40 trans. (stock 331 Cad exhaust manifolds)
    In those days, you made it fit...simply by moving things, not diverting steering masts with handy aftermarket street rod paraphernalia...(contraband!) LOL

    Every time I see a GREAT rod at a show lately, it has these Borgesons & Flaming Rivers on it! All integrated into a spindly-looking 3/4" shaft that worms its way down to the popular steering box of the hour. It just disappoints. Seems to be saying, 'Hey, this is how WE do it!'---Goodguys.

    If these chain steer-clears had been available in '58, they wouldn't have been on my cars.
     
  30. Automobile Amish?
    Thats about as traditional as s-10 frames and mustang 2 front ends.
     

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