Technical Springs outside of frame help please.

Win or loose, every run's such good fun..

 

I didnt know it by the owners name. I just called it the simplex special. Love this car!
R ooster

 

Obviously I reckon it's rather cool too!

Thanks for those pics, they're just what I wanted.

I still can't work out what the tap to the right of the steering column does, or what's in the tank that it appears to be connected to.
When I saw the filler cap on the cowl I always thought it was a header tank for the radiator, but why would that need a tap and a small bore pipe?
Maybe it's a reserve gas tank, (or early Nitrus ) as there is definitely a gas tank in the tail, with the fuel and air pump lines on the left just like I've done mine. Very curious indeed.[/QUOTE]

 

I think it mite be a extra oil tank for oil loss during a race or maybe oil to the rockers?
Check out the mag drive also!
Rooster

 

You got it! It's to oil the rockers, it's been so long since I last looked at this video Heck I'd completely forgotten that he mentions the tap for oiling them at 1:30, jeez, brain fade at it's best right there !



Even so it seems a very big tank just for that, as the owners manual says oil a few drops every 25 miles, so maybe it does drip feed to the mag chain as well.

It has a dry sump system installed, did you see how that might work, like an external pump and drive?

 

Great racer, and I like that you're having great fun with itQ

Did all mid-to-late 20's Chevrolets have uncovered open valve gear? I love seeing that stuff all in operation.

 

What is this frame? Are there more photos of it?

 

Not too sure exact date rocker covers came in, but mid '20s.

A thick oil soaked felt pad was laid on top of the rockers to extend oiling intervals, to avoid removing the cover there were holes in it to drip oil through onto the pad. There was a large hole in side of the cover for a plug lead conduit. The gasket design wasn't the best, almost useless in fact.

Side covers to enclose the push rods also appeared on the '28.
There was no return path from head to oil pan and the side cover gaskets design wasn't too good either.

There were no crankshaft oil seals at all, and a before '28 a perforated oil filler cap meant the whole engine bay would be a bit messy.

A crankcase breather system was introduced in "28 which helped, a solid filler cap, and a tube to the inlet ahead of the carb from a splash free chamber at the front of the block which caused a bit of negative crank case pressure.

With pressure rocker oil, unless that Bert Moyers engine has some sort of sealed rocker system (I've never seen a pic with the hood off) after a proper race dust, sand, oil and salt would be caked everywhere and neither the car or driver would look too pretty!

My stock '28 with later carb and home made adaptors, the steel tube from the front to inlet adaptor is the crankcase vent.

 

@282doorUK Thanks for that info! I have zero experience with the early Chevrolets, so appreciate the education.

 

That looks and sounds cool as hell.

 

Here I am checking the suspension movement with the mobile sand ripple assisted finger gauge, I've since been told that watching this made made grown men cringe and women squeal..

The findings were that complete finger survival shows that the suspension now has just enough vertical movement to prevent any back jarring, but with no axle to chassis contact.

Wheel spin now seems to be more controlled without the violent axle hop I was sometimes getting with the longer springs.

I was unable to carry out this test before the shortening job due to the arm to wheelbase miss match.

 

I watched the movie again. He said full pressure oiling I didn't hear anything about a dry sump but I guess you would want both on a racecar! I didn't see any external pump or drive, just the magneto. There is a line going under the seat, maby to a tank? Not sure how it really works, but I'd like to!! I wonder who they had build the engine? I took these pics in 2011 I wonder where the car is now?
Rooster

 

It's a bit tricky trying seeing how the oiling works from pictures.

No chance of ever looking inside the thing, so unless someone knows better it'll forever remain a mystery to us.

What led me to think it was dry sump was the front tank which I took for a dry sump oil tank. But I found a pic showing it's clearly connected to the water pump inlet, this first pic and your mag drive pic show the other side hose going up towards the front of the head so it's for added water capacity, not oil.

Just noticed in the same pic you can see the square hole in the rocker cover for the plug lead conduit to pass through, so in wasn't sealed or leakproof.

 

@kustomrooster, I'm now thinking the tank in the cowl could be the dry sump tank.

That would explain it's size and the two pipes in your pic, one going upwards and the other into the belly pan.

I took a still from the video and it looks like those pipes do make their way up to the tank.

That rocker cover doesn't look like it's sealed at all. The head is a '28 but the block is earlier, and there is no thermostat.



https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachments/cimg1327-jpg.5719876/

 

Hey! Sorry for the delay I thought I mite have a lead on one of the guys that owned the car. But it fell through. Anyways I think your rite the oil tank surly is a dry sump. But where is the pressure pump? The stock pump is usually a scavenger pump but isn't there a seperate pressure pump?
Rooster

 

I think it must have had the stock pump replaced with a 4 gear scavenge/pressure pump.
Not sure how one would connect it all up inside the oil pan, which might explain all those external pipes.

This link illustrates the 4 gear type, just ignore his modifications.

 

Wow!! That's a awesome pump! One of those could definitely do the job! I wonder what pressure they can put out? Mite be a good pump for a full pressure Chevy banger!
Rooster

 

The original distributer body is still in place, even though it's redundant due to the Mag, one good reason to keep it would be to drive a 4 gear pump.

 

This thing's never gonna be finished, I reckoned that if Dave can have one on his cool red racer, then so can I.

It should help with my low salt diet

Clicky for pic of Dave's racer View attachment 5711758







^^ Sorry for the bad pics, those screws have now been changed to counter sunk ones.

 

That really looks nice!

 

Thanks gg, next job is to put some rear brakes on it and delete the front ones, which don't work very well due to grabbing and spring windup, and I need those super rare over here parts for my stock '28 Chevy.

I reckon an unbraked front axle looks much better on early cars.

 

You will never get that car 'finished'! But that's half the fun! I might suggest that if you haven't already hooked up the emergency brake, to do so. With the steel drums, you can get major expansion in multiple hard braking. A real queasy feeling when the pedal goes to the floor! Been there, done that!!!!
Be safe Have Fun!

 

Yep, had the brake fade on my stock '28, that's one reason why I'm changing to rear band brakes on the racer. Not that I'm likely to need brakes at all, them being the greatest impediment to speed ever invented..

 

kr;
Those acvw "dry-sump" pumps can put out enough pressure to blow a filter. Like near any other decent pump. It all depends on bearing clearances, & other "oem-created-leaks" in the mills' oiling system. It's a good cheap adaptable solution for more than a few situations. Just make sure to use a steel plate(stock acvw oilpump cover plate works well, just make sure it is sanded smooth, use the gasket for the correct end-gear-to-plate clearance.).
Marcus...

 

Wow! The brookland screens or windshield looks awesome! Did you make the aluminum glass bottom and knobs to tighten it? Or was it some kind of kit? I have boattail Speedster made from a 1927 Chevy frame with no front brakes. I think it looks cool! But I did use a 1950s truck torque tube rearend (shortened) that has hydraulic brakes. Mite be a little more stopping power. Then swapped the chunk after I blew it up for a mid to late 50s chunk and made it open drive.
Rooster

 

Sorry for the tardy reply Rooster, the screen came used off Ebay, there are a few different copies about of varying quality, some being quite shoddy. Mine is a genuine Brooklands make with a small chip in the glass for authenticity

I have a '50s chevy truck rear end I was going to use but it's too wide, way too heavy and my disc wheels don't fit cos the drum shape is too square.

Front brakes now deleted, and I like the cleaner look much better, will most likely cut that boss off the axle and also the lugs by the king pin when I'm sure they won't be needed again .





Rear band brakes fitted with a rod linkage made from mostly original parts but modified and working in new ways.
Glued sandpaper to the drums to bed the linings to fit the drums. They work pretty well, much greater friction area than the fronts had so all good.





Opened up some original holes for cooling and that racer look..







had to cut some woodruff key seats in the shafts which I did on my lathe.

 

Cutting a woodruff keyway using a vertical slide in a lathe - what could possibly go wrong Great work there Bernard.

 

Thanks Stuart, the cheap cutter was my only worry, even after making that custom collet it still had runout! I was impressed that it held up long enough to do four key seats but it did!

 

More improvements, lookin good! I like the look of drilled backing plates! Im using mid 30"s wide cap wires on my car so they clear the truck rearend. But I have used 3 inch spacers on the earlier wire wheels to get them to clear. Is the brake going to be the same hand brake or pedal?
Rooster