I know this is a big no no. What about welding the "tit" on that holds your axle in place? could this put enough heat into the spring that it could weaken it?? or ruin it?? I am airbagging the rear on my 54 olds, and just using a single leaf on each side to locate the axle while the airbags are the springs. Just trying to figure out my options. The spring shop here in town wants $300 to make me 2 single leaf springs with eyes!! ouch!! any suggestions??
Take your spring and drill a hole with a masonary drill bit and use a allen head fine thread bolt and nut with red locktite to locate perch.
good call, however i already welded the damn thing in. im just wondering if after i have the arch taken out of my old spring if having welded that in will render the spring junk.
It may break... or it may not... It will break NEXT to the weld when it does break. You should get some other springs & drill with an allen as previously stated. Damn, Arent air bags fun ?
You possibly didn't do it any good , but then the past 50++ years haven't done it much good either -I wouldnt worry too much , but I would look to replace them anyway --years aren't kind to springs
Has anyone ever welded the "tit" on?? and if so did it fail, or work ok? The guy at the spring shop said the spring itself looked good, he just didn't like that i had welded it. I know this is probably a lost cause, just lookin for some light at the end of the tunnel that i just created!!
The only light at the end of that tunnel is a new set of springs. Possibility of breakage, probability of temper loss, all negatives whic should be heeded and new springs made or purchased.
I gather that these springs are semi-elliptic longitudinal type? How are you controlling torque that arrives at the rear end housing? Through these same leaves? I am less familiar w/airbag setups, but using just the main leaves as "control arms" and then introducing "untoward" stresses upon them...hmmmm.
My bet it will break, every time when I was a kid, any time I put heat to tempered metal it broke with use.
IF IT BREAKS YOU WILL BE THE FIRST TO THE WRECK!!!! Please throw that away and do it correctly I have two springs break from age ...... It wasn't fun Almost went thru the front door at Joe Jost's one Friday afternoon
I'm not an expert by any means but i wouldn't trust welding on springs, just like i wouldn't trust heating coil springs. with all the stress from a monoleaf setup i'd be even more worried about the weld since those aren't strong even with a normal spring.... but if i were you i would not buy a new set of leaf springs, if you needed to replace them my .02 cents is just 4 link it and do it the right way the first time. and i'm not trying to bash you i've just been there, monoleaf works i did it in my fairlane but it gets soggy and scary real fast. like i said, your call just saying i'd spend the $$$ on a good 4 link (or even 3 link or trailing arms or something) instead of a weak monoleaf setup any day. frank
Spring welding isn't recommended but either is driving old cars - fast... On the '61 right rear spring, I found the front eye had most of the "circle" broken off. Fabbed up a piece of steel in a circle and MIG'd to the broken eye. Two years later, I've bent the other side spring from wheel hoppin' launches but the welded side is fine... Powerband
A Masonry bit? How will that go through spring steel? I have drilled spring steel with HSS bits at low speeds, and it works, and I use Masonry bits several times a week at work, and I may be way off here, but I dont see how a masonry bit would ever "shave away" metal to drill a hole in steel.
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