split bones question

I did a search and couldn't find the answer I needed. I set the caster on my axle and I'm ready to tack the bone mounts to the frame. It's a 34 truck 4" dropped axle with spring behind. I noticed the bones are running parallel if not outward slighty. The question I have is do the bones have to angle towards each other? It seems that they would to stop side to side movement or does the shackle angle locate the axle? I just want to make sure before I weld them on.
Thanks Mat

 

use a panhard bar

 

post a pix

 

Panhard is a good way to go, I've heard they are excellent for cross steer set ups as well.Without one shackle movement will be inevitable i would imagine.

 

If the spring is not mounted in tension like the original, you will need a Panhard rod. Since you have the spring mounted between the wishbones it is unlikey to be munted in tension.

 

Why is the spring not in tension when mounted spring behind? I thought if the shackles were at the proper angle it wouldn't matter where the spring is mounted. It would seem that everybody running split bones or hairpins would have this same issue. I don't think my frame is any wider the anybody else. Maybe I'm not seeing something or maybe just overthinking it. I also thought panhard bar but I want to do right the first time.

 

If your spring is a conventional 28-34 front spring it would fit between the perches above the axle and need to be spread to engage the shackles.
If you duplicated that measurement between the 'bones then all is well, you can mount the bones and then the spring will be mounted in tension and need to be spread to engage the shackles.
If you mounted the spring already you'll have a devil of a time spreading the bones to get them to pop into the tie rod end sockets on your brackets.
A spring mounted in tension the Ford way stands with shackles bars parallel to the ground. It settles to whatever angle up to 45* when the weight of the car is set on it. When using a Ford spring and duplicating the Ford spread of the original perches for that spring the settled angle takes care of itself when the spring mounted.

A rule of thumb mentioned here in another thread that is valid for any spring used transversely like a Ford spring is: Measure the spring at rest from center or eye to center of eye, then add 3 inches for shackles(1.5" per side) and another 1/2" totla for the tensioning and you should be good to go for making up perches which will do the job correctly.

 

Thanks, I'm going to have a main leaf made up when I get the final measurements. I going to sleave the bones and bolt the perches through. Could I use the nuts on the perches to pull the spring in to tension? So to answer my orignal question I will be fine as long as the spring is in tension?

 

I suppose you could do that but if they are fabricated bolt/pipe perches be damn sure of the welding. and use safety wired nuts or castellated nuts/cotter pins on the perches.

 

I plan on doing something similar to what Bass did on the Wade coupe. Everything will be TIG welded and I will use some sort of locking nut.(nyloc or castle). Does anybody else have any opinions on this?