Split Bones Question

I'm interested in putting together a suicide front axle and have been looking for some split bones. The following questions have popped up and I need some assistance with answers:

1. Why do 1940 bones seem to be preferred?
2. Is there a measurement I can make at the front axle to distinguish between various year bones?
3. How do people identify the different years of these things?
4. Anything else I should know as I begin my hunt?

 

For the record I did do a search and found some posts with some helpful info. but no answers to what I've asked above. I know somebody's got this info., help!

 

I thought 32's were the weapon of choice. The weld seam is on the bottom. Less ugly. I have a set of well prepped split 40 bones I bought from "Rudy Rodriguez of Old School rodz fame" LOL for $150.

 

From what I read from my search '32 bones are shorter in length than '33-'34 bones. Thus not as desirable. I was wondering if the '40 bones are more sought after because they take the whole front set up and get juice brakes too. When did juice brakes start appearing?

 

Juice brakes came along in '39.

 

The longer arch gives a better front suspension. Less change in the king pin angle.

 

'32 Bones are longer than '33-34.

The '32 bones are the most valuble, mostly for there value in a stock '32 chassis, unsplit, using a stock K-member. The '33-34 Bones are next in value, as they can be lenghtened slightly, and used in place of a stock '32 bone.

The 35-36 bones are much like the 37-41's , but they have the 2" perch bosses like the '32-34 axles/bones. So if you are running a '32 axle(desireable), you need 2" perch bones, and the 35-36 will fit the bill if you can't round up any 32-34's.

The cheapest bones to run across are by far Model A bones, but they are too short for many applications.

I think may of the people run the 37'-41 bones because they are very long, plentiful, and easy to come by. As you alluded to earlier, if you are looking for a complete front end, the '40 is a great candidate to donate really all the parts. You really only need to add a dropped axle, or if you are doing a suicide deal with the axle in front of the radiator, you don't have to do anything.

One thing to watch out for with the 37-41 axle is when you run split bones with that axle, the perches are very close the kingpins, and your turning radious can be reduced greatly, as inside tire will hit the bone long before the steering gets to full lock.

 

td1932-- excellent info. i wrote it all down. thanks

 

How about 37'-41 bones and an A axle? Are the perch boss dimensions different, and if so can a spacer of some kind be used?

 

Most parts suppliers sell the spacers. Speedway has 'em. I'm sure Pete & Jakes, Chassis Engineering, etc.... .do too.

JH

 

What about the 40-41 Merc bones ,,does the curve make any difference?

 

You were right, Speedway's got 'em.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/aspx/display_id.3320/itemNo.91635003/qx/Product.htm
91635003 Space Washer for 2" Boss Axles, 4 Pack

ST $3.95

 

While we're at it whats the deal with thr 46-48 bones. I'm guessing better for very low cars?

 

37 and up wishbones "jaws" are 2.25" wide. Mode A axle bosses are 2.25" wide. No spacers required.

Spacers are required when you use 32-36 axle axles with Model A or 37 and up wishbones.

I'm using a set of 48 Lincoln wishbones with my Model A axle. They also have 2.25" wide "jaws."

I usually run a spring on top or a spring behind set up. So I cut the stock 37 up spring perches off the wishbones and detail the stub.

 

many pics are missing- they used to be...i didn't really check this time...

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55439

 

Flathead Youngin'

Thanks for the link. That is a great post.

 

Are the 40 Pickup Front end stuff the same as the passenger cars?

 

yes, and so is the 41 truck...the truck retained the same style frame as the 35-40 passenger.....where as the passenger car in 41 went to the "new" style...

there may be a few more leaf spring in the truck...i've never counted them......