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Projects Slow and poor '37 Buick

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Stooge, Mar 15, 2018.

  1. thecrazed(k)666
    Joined: Feb 7, 2010
    Posts: 215

    thecrazed(k)666
    Member

    Any updates on Buick???
     
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  2. Stooge
    Joined: Sep 9, 2015
    Posts: 458

    Stooge
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The damn daily driver has gotten a little fussy and has been taking my time and money lately, but thanks to Steel A Rod and Paul, I have a all of the internals and some spares for the transmission to replace the broken, chipped, missing gears and small parts I was missing, and with the exception of a few other things, I basically have a complete car. New gallon of high build primer is on the way, and I already picked up a new can of rage gold body filler so I guess im starting bodywork pretty soon, and will prime the inside to stop the new floor from flashing over along with most of the outer body. I wanted to leave the front fenders in place while I body work those so it'd be easier to get it right, and because they are massive and wont fit on my work stands that well for sanding. front and rear fenders shouldn't need much, and I have a few little bits to finish up on the door seams before priming those, and I have some of the rear trunk lip on the body to repair, I just haven't gotten to it yet. should pick up soon since its supposed to start warming up a bit. shop has heat, but running any air sanders with the doors closed makes a pretty big mess.
     
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  3. patmanta
    Joined: May 10, 2011
    Posts: 3,686

    patmanta
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Woburn, MA
    1. MASSACHUSETTS HAMB

    Have you tried box fans and whole house air filters?
     
  4. Stooge
    Joined: Sep 9, 2015
    Posts: 458

    Stooge
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    its not much of an update, but after many hours or cleaning up the bare metal trying to get the pitting, rust, old paint cleaned up, some dents knocked out, fixing some old repairs from a previous owner in the front fender, it got a skim coat of filler in a few spots and a some high build primer on the passenger side. Good to see it looking a little more whole for the first time, but it was sort of an experiment to see what I could get away with in regards to some of the blemished/ pitted sheet metal. few people suggested just covering it all in filler, but I wasn't too keen on that since I would drive myself crazy with sanding it all down and getting it straight, and for the most part, wasn't really necessary. The U-Pol high build covered most of it, with the exception of a few areas where the body trim was that was a little heavier pitted, but overall, im pretty pleased with it.

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    was mostly experimenting and just wanted to do the door and fenders, but did the cowl and door jambs as well. still a lot of body work to do, but atleast I have a better idea of the course to go now. next will be the roof, and rear qtrs. before spinning it around for the driver side, (shop is full right now and space is at a premium so I have to work with that for the time being)
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    Last edited: Apr 3, 2019
  5. Stooge
    Joined: Sep 9, 2015
    Posts: 458

    Stooge
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    A few more days of grinding, sanding and cleaning so i could prime the hood, rear quarters, cowl, etc. Scarily almost starting to look like a real car
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  6. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,550

    nunattax
    Member

    that's a long hood,lota work in that one.
     
  7. Stooge
    Joined: Sep 9, 2015
    Posts: 458

    Stooge
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    A little bit of an update, running boards are "done", still going to add a lip around the front and back fender facing sides. they're going to be covered in ribbed rubber mat and I may get some trim pieces made up from McMillan for the out facing side of them but im not sure yet. Some rectangular tubing and some right angle brackets I had to act as frame brackets, hogged out to make access slots to bolt to the underside of the steps, and some weldnuts and more rectangular tubing welded to the underside
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    (I screwed up and welded one of them backwards, this is before I fixed it)

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    the frame mounting holes and the step mounting holes are slotted for final adjustment as the body and fenders are lined up, no rubber body mounts in yet, etc.
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    Just tacked in for the time being

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    Also I've been trying to come up with a rough idea of how I will have the throttle linkage set up for the 4 single barrel carburetors. the choke was easy enough, and just utilized the stock cable stops and found a cheap choke cable long enough to reach, although I will get a find a better fitting one for the end product. cobbled a sort of bell crank out of sheet metal, and made a tab to fold over the carburetor throttle linkage to secure it as well as act as an anti rotation device, and coupled that with some bits I bought from Mcmaster carr that I thought would be useful. I have a longer stick of all thread but I just wanted to test 1 of the carbs so that's all I set it up for. This is just a rough 1st try at the throttle bracket to see if it works, so hopefully the real ones are a little nicer looking. I also want to keep the carburetors stock as far as the bracketry on them goes, so if the need to replace one comes up, the carburetor itself can be swapped in without having to modify, cut, drill, etc and it all comes from the pieces I made.

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    I haven't made anything for a return spring yet, but I might try and work that into the carb mounting flanges on the intake it self.

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    fortunately, the rod seems to stay on a pretty level plane when pulled back, and couple with the heim joints, im hoping it doesn't bind up but i'll have to try it out with all 4 to be sure

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    And while I was spraying primer yesterday, I sanded down the front and backside of the dash to get rid the surface rust, and gave that a few coats of primer. I thought about doing hydrograph and make it wood grain like the dash originally would have had, but I think im just going to do it black

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  8. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 11,967

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    Stooge,

    Beautiful workmanship as usual!! The dash....does it unbolt from the cowl? I wuz thinking they are spot welded in....hmmmm

    Ray
     
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  9. belair
    Joined: Jul 10, 2006
    Posts: 8,671

    belair
    Member

    Looking good. Those are great cars. Glad you are moving forward.
     
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  10. Fantastic looking project. God Bless you for not only saving this gorgeous slice of GM history, but breathing loads of cool into her. The straight 8 with that intake is incredible. Hopefully runs as good as it looks.
    Dad was a Buick man and would have appreciated this.
    Subscribed


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  11. Stooge
    Joined: Sep 9, 2015
    Posts: 458

    Stooge
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks Ray, its a great motivator to start seeing this look like a real car again even if its miles away from being close to on the road. I had read that the dash in atleast the '37 and '38 cars unbolted by way of a bunch of small screws around the cowl, so i gathered some screwdrivers and nutdrivers out to tackle taking it out, to find out it was just strung up in place with bailing wire. Before i go too much further with bodyworking the dash, i need to figure out where im going to mount the choke cable, and a sort of hidden starter button. Doesnt really make sense to try and cobble together the stock starter pedal vacuum switch amd i have heard of enough issues with people grinding up their ring gear with the starter accidentally engaging while driving. Im still going to use the column key and switch but it will mostly act as an interrupter or to power the coil, and will just mount a small momentary switch under the dash to engage the starter. I also wouldnt hate mounting a small tach somewhere but i might put it down floor or something to keep it from looking out of place.....of course its only a 2speed trans so its probably not necessary aside from tuning.

    Thanks! After months of back problems, some physical therapy and a cortisone shot, its a nice feeling to be back puttering around and trying to chip away at stuff

    Thanks, i appreciate the sentiment! After having looked for a prewar gm coupe for awhile and having planned on lowering, chopped, etc, then stumbling onto this and re-evaluating where i wanted to go with it, how i wanted it to look, trying to keep all of the parts pre-1950, its just turning into sonething alot cooler to me. Plus it seems like almost every other one i see is either a perfect restoration or a cheeseball streetrod, im looking forward to just having a cool, simple hot rod...while also being a gigantic, beautiful coupe!
     
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  12. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 11,967

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    48647F21-B056-46EB-85E0-77CE3F27498E.jpeg

    Stooge, I agree with your expressed goals.......here is my take on the era. I do have the dog dishes for this and usually run them. I know some people think red wheels are a cliche’, but I guess I don’t........I see them as “traditional’.....:D

    I am really a fan of the GM coupes of this era and particularly favor the Buick and Chevrolet versions. I recently satisfied that Chevy Coupe ‘itch’ and acquired a ‘37.....a long time favorite.........

    Keep up the great work you are doing. It is really impressive!

    Ray
     
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  13. Stooge
    Joined: Sep 9, 2015
    Posts: 458

    Stooge
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks Ray, I really appreciate the kind words. There may not be much of a budget sometimes, and some of the work may not be perfect, but what I've always tried to do with the cars I've worked on, is be able to say that I did the best job I could at that point in time and tried my hardest to do it right.

    Got any pictures of your new Chevy? Your '38 is a beauty, and pretty close to what im shooting for. Gloss black single stage body, black steel wheels, a small chrome cap, black wall tires, and leaning towards no fog lights. A buddy owns a finishing shop and does paint and powder coating has mentioned having the intake and some other under hood pieces done in copper powder coat but im thinking that may be a little obnoxious. He also actually owns the '37 Chevy that was the first prewar car I worked on, and what sparked me wanting a prewar coupe, though his is a panel truck.
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  14. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 11,967

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    Stooge, Thank you for asking......I will post a pic or two but do not want to hijack the thread.
    I found a nice older ‘body off’ restoration that was first rate when done and has been regularly driven, but nicely maintained. The PO swapped in a ‘53 235 (PG engine with full pressure lube system). I think it is a great foundation for conversion to a mild hot rod and that is what I am doing with it.

    First, I removed the spotlight and fog lights. Also getting rid of the tail light mounted license bracket. Also the huge old OE radio. I have replaced the worn out wiper transmissions with new units from I & I Reproductions and they are beautifully made. Added a Newport Engineering electric wiper motor. Next up is installing new rear springs and an 8.8 Ranger axle with 3.55 and limited slip. Pulling the old 3 speed and installing an S-10 T 5 trans for the time being.

    Later this year I intend to install a warmed over 250 Chevy Six and probably an automatic trans. May keep the stick, we’ll see how I like it by then. I will post a pic of ‘as found’ and another pic which serves as ‘inspiration’ for the look I want.

    Keep us updated on your Buick progress. You have really transformed that car with a lot of hard work and talent!

    Ray

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  15. Stooge
    Joined: Sep 9, 2015
    Posts: 458

    Stooge
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Spent the other morning freeing up a few of the W-1 carbs that stuck, and cut out some quick and rough throttle brackets to try out the possible linkage. With the exception of some changes im going to make with the hardware, finding a few more carburetor cores and figuring out some sort of bell crank to hook to a pedal, but for probably under $30 with the choke and throttle so far, it should work pretty well. Still have to make up some spring returns and brackets and how i'll route the fuel lines, then ill breal it down for final welding. Also need to find a front engine mounting plate, or modify the '47 engine plate to fit the frame, so i can eventually start the header with the engine in place.
    Not sure how to link a video of the choke and throttle linkage moving, (there should be more travel but the stops on the carbs arent all adjusted the same) but i have a quick video on my instagram https://www.instagram.com/p/BzlSoTilMnY/?igshid=7f5igswg9azi

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  16. 40two
    Joined: Feb 19, 2012
    Posts: 1,874

    40two
    Member

    Hey Stooge, what a fine carb setup! fun to watch your thread!

    Cheers, Carsten
     
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  17. Stooge
    Joined: Sep 9, 2015
    Posts: 458

    Stooge
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks Carsten, i appreciate it and thanks for checking in on it! Not sure how far i'll go into building the engine since it came out of a running car and im on a budget, but getting it cleaned up, replace whats worn and a cam regrind should be doable. Of course when there are people like Don Montgomery, who unfortunately passed away earlier this year, who were setting records with Buick straight 8's back in the 40s and 50s, it doesnt do alot to encourage keeping it simple

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  18. Stooge
    Joined: Sep 9, 2015
    Posts: 458

    Stooge
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    Plugging along! I've been doing some work on a few off topic cars, bought a new reliable daily driver so I can stop futzing around with late model electrical gremlins so i can get home from work, and treated the buick to some attention.

    not the most important, but something I've been keeping an eye out for are the front fender lights, saw these pop up on ebay and luckily won them. much better condition than I thought they would be in


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    Also took a chance on a '40's starter for a Roadmaster since it needs to spin the bigger engine, so far it fits and im hoping I don't run into clearance issues somewhere when I mount a solenoid to and the bellhousing is in place.

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    Something I had been thinking was to run either several fuel blocks in line to reach the 3'ish feet of carburetors, along with hoses, or figure out some sort of fuel rail. The fuel blocks would would have entailed either buying or making several fuel blocks, figuring out where to mount them, keep the hoses from looking too cluttered, etc. and the fuel rail would be the same but also could look out of place pretty easily with the intake tubing, figuring out where/ how to mount it, etc. Sort of impulse made some small brackets to mount to the intake runners and guessed through the rest. I had an idea to somehow also run a vacuum line through it from the carburetors but it wouldn't have really made sense. with this, i wanted the rail semi hidden so it didn't look too out of place so it is mounted low and behind the intake tube. i still need to tap the ends of the piece to mount a regulator, gauge, etc.

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    Nickel Copper- NiCopp 5/16" line, and inverted flare fittings. I'll end up bending the lines again at some point when I get a better tube bender as i was having a time trying to get the corners as tight as i would have wanted. Also still need to make the rest of the carburetor throttle brackets to replace the real rough cut ones i made a while back to see if they would work.

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    As a little birthday present to myself, i decided i wanted to look at something shiny, plus i wanted to test and narrow down which black i wanted to use for the body, so i thought the dash would be a good place to start. Ordered a quart of Boulevard Black single stage from TCP global, and used to some primers and sealers i already had from other cars.

    The starting point when i first brought the '37 home. the tags on the speaker grille and glove compartment, (along with most of everything else that came with the car) were from when a previous owner was parting it out and was trying to sell every little piece before i guess someone just bought the whole car and i eventually ended up with it. this also helps explain why i am missing so many parts to this car.
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    i like the black a lot, but it shows every little fingerprint and smudge from handling it. i didn't have any clean microfiber towels and didn't want to risk scratching the new paint so i just left them for the pictures. i was planning on getting new dash knobs, but i kind of like the idea of using the originals.


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    And as a little pick me up for my buddy with the Edsel, who was hit hard by the tax man over picking the wrong health insurance and took a good bite out of his car money, i bought a front end rebuild kit from Kanter's. He has a dog walking business that i help him out with and has been pretty lucrative over the years ( $150-$450 in a weekend for just having a few well behaved dogs stay over) so i was happy to get it.

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    theres a good amount of not so grear work on the tailpan of the buick, so that will be the next big project. i just need to shuffle some cars around to move it into a better spot in the shop since the trunk is up against the wall now so hopefully i'll get those moved this week sometime so i can start making a new one. If you can see at the corners where the rear fenders end, there is a decent gap where the tailpan ends, ( i can adjust some of it away with loosening/ tightening up the fender bolts) and when the trunk lid is down, is even more noticeable.

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    Last edited: Sep 23, 2019
  19. Stooge likes this.
  20. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,179

    1-SHOT
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    It looks like the tail panel was put in incorrectly, maybe there was some damage in that area that was not properly repaired.
     
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  21. Stooge
    Joined: Sep 9, 2015
    Posts: 458

    Stooge
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks, I appreciate it!

    maybe damage or rust/ rot would be my guess. there's a recess/ cavity behind the panel, along with just being a great place to catch rain, i could see it rotting away some time over the last 82yrs, though it doesn't appear the weather stripping channel was ever touched. i am sort of curious how long ago that section was repaired as judging from the few other repaired areas, it looks like there were 2 different people at different times working on it. 1 was handy enough with brazing but i would guess the repairs were done quite some time ago and were a little crude(the trunk floor is acceptably repaired and the tail pan was probably done at the same time), and the other looks like they had ambitious plans but didn't follow through so some homemade panels were just screwed in place over rot, (lower body/rockers behind and infront of the doors all had galvanized homemade panels held in with self tapping screws). if there weren't multiple overlapped pieces, i would be tempted to try and make some cuts to manipulate how the pan meets the trunk lid and try and straighten it out, but theres a bunch of overlap and trying to weld around brazing really tries the patience so making a new one and cutting the old out is the route im going.
     
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  22. kbgreen
    Joined: Jan 12, 2014
    Posts: 340

    kbgreen
    Member

    The tail on these 30's-early 40's GM products tended to rust out. I had to have a new one made. DSCN9162.JPG DSCN9317.JPG
     
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  23. Stooge
    Joined: Sep 9, 2015
    Posts: 458

    Stooge
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    Well I thought I had a picture of the new in-progress tail panel clamped up to the rear, but I guess I didn't, but it is being worked on. 52" wide, and over exaggerated the curve at the bottom a bit since I figured I would lose some shape when the center cuts cut out for the trunk opening, and will be flanging the bottom lip to meet the trunk floor recess.

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    And moved the buick outside for the first time in a long time to shuffle some cars around and do some cleaning. Was good to see it outside on a sunny day, but it was also a reminder of how much there is to do before it will probably get outside again

    running board is sitting a little high relative to the body but there are not body mount rubbers and I made the running board brackets adjustable so I can align it to wherever the body is.
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    I have some of the missing steering parts coming in, but am still short a tie rod/ drag link end with the drag link screw ends, cups and springs. I found one new old stock set and its on it's way, but still need to source another. im sure theres another model that will fit the drag link but until I have the new pair, I cant compare it to anything. Also thinking of knocking another spendy item off the list, and am leaning towards the $500 worth of engine and transmission mounts so I can make sure the carbs and intake will fit how I want, and start planning an exhaust header. Before I can get the mounts in though, I have to modify the front engine mount plate that sits behind the timing cover. since my engine is a '47, that used an engine crossmember, the mounts are slanted rather than flat to sit ontop of the frame like the '37 would have. I've reached out to a few people with no luck so im probably going to pie cut and pull the mounting ears down flat and fill in the new gap and brace it and hope the mounts fit. Also trying to collect the clutch parts, but with the Century being a mix of the big car stuff and the small car stuff, its a slow search just trying to find a pressure plate or clutch fork, though I've been that some '70's full size ford stuff will fit, with an 11" disc and 1 1/8 spline which is what I believe the buick is

    right side column for series 60
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  24. Stooge, have you contacted Dave Tacheny in MN He is the Buick expert, collector, reseller over on the AACA?
    If not, I would call him. A very busy guy, only call him between 6-7pm at 763-427-3460. He has bailed me out a couple of times. He only does Western Union transfers but don't be concerned. He is legit.
     
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  25. Greg Rogers
    Joined: Oct 11, 2016
    Posts: 397

    Greg Rogers
    Member

    Amazing work, Stooge. Just read thru entire thread. Excellent!!
     
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  26. Stooge
    Joined: Sep 9, 2015
    Posts: 458

    Stooge
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    Some Updates, getting stuff moved around between my shop and the garage at my house to get everything settled before the winter. The Buick is in the good spot at my shop so I can blow it apart over the winter to finish the metal work and start body work, aiming to have it in paint or ready for paint by the spring/ April'ish. The Edsel and my off topic truck are at the garage at my house. truck is getting a little refresh and fixing some damaged paint and we are trying to get the Edsel some regular attention and chipping away at things and getting some needed parts bought for it.

    outside once more before the winter, I swapped spots with a GTO that I did the metal work on that is headed to paint soon
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    Back inside in the end with the '37 Plymouth

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    With a little more room to work on the backside, started fitting what will become the new tail panel, still pretty rough but it's headed in the right direction. ( the inside was just quickly cut out and to make it easier to work with, it will be trimmed and cleaned up when I go to start the weatherstripping lip) the bottom flange I made is a bit wavy as I over did the angle and had to bend it back a bit.

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    Also came across this free radiator from someone who got it from someone going with a late model engine so im not exactly sure what its out of, but the size is just about right. im going to pull the front sheet metal off the car soon so I can get a better idea of what brackets on the radiator need to be modified and if it will be worth it to have this one reworked, but the $900ish for a new radiator is some motivation to see if the local radiator shop can rework this one to work for me. (its just sitting in front of the radiator support in this picture)

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    Spent some time cleaning up the grime off of the front of the 320, and pulled the generator off so I could get a better look at the front engine mounting plate. a stock '37 engine plate has 2 ears that protrude out and sit flat on top of the frame sort of like the old Hurst front engine plates, but my engine is a '47, which had an engine crossmember/ cradle so the plate's "ears" are angled. I've been looking for a replacement plate for awhile now, had a few leads, someone offered to sell me one for $500 which I politely declined, and I missed out on one on ebay as it was for the smaller engine and I procrastinated but it probably would have been helpful to have. The gist of the plan is to cut along the bottom edge of the mount, bend it down to a horizontal plane, make up a filler piece, (mount is about 3/16") and weld it up, maybe add a fish plate for a little extra security.

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  27. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 11,967

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    @Stooge

    Just went through a lengthy number of posts, again, and continue to be impressed with what you have accomplished. Your's is a favorite project thread and you are to be congratulated on every aspect of your progress.....especially since so much is hand made, and to a very high standard!

    Ray
     
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  28. 40FORDPU
    Joined: Mar 15, 2009
    Posts: 3,041

    40FORDPU
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    from Yelm, Wa
    1. Northwest HAMBers

    Great fab work, nice build thread.
     
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  29. Stooge
    Joined: Sep 9, 2015
    Posts: 458

    Stooge
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    Thanks Ray, I really appreciate the compliment and know you have been following along this whole thread. I wish I could say I learned to work with metal from my dad or an uncle, but cars aren't my dad's thing and its really just something I've been learning out of necessity that if I wanted something cool, I would have to make it. And handmade mostly because any idea I have for how to do something, I figure out a way to get by without having to spend money on the right tooling or equipment, and basically just keep doing that for yrs every time something comes up that I need to make from scratch. I've been trying to invest in more metal shaping specific tools, hammers, dollies, etc, but other than a cheap bead roller, it doesn't go far beyond that aside from some different shaped chunks of metal I've accumulated that I can hammer metal over. Plus its a fun hobby, and theres something a little extra fun to me about always having a big overwhelming project to chip away at and seeing what can be done with the minimum. Putting my work up on forums and sort of showing the step by step process I used has been something I've been doing on other forums, (garagejournal, a few truck websites, etc) for awhile, and is what I like looking at in other people's build threads, sort of a 'this is what im doing and this is how im doing it on a budget'.. Maybe makes you try a bit harder when your being honest and showing other people in the world with similar interests what your working on and how your working on it.

    thanks, I appreciate it! nice to see it finally starting to look like something but its still got a ways to go before it looks like a finished something
     
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  30. Stooge
    Joined: Sep 9, 2015
    Posts: 458

    Stooge
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    Working on making some of the puzzle pieces for the trunk perimeter/channel and the new tail pan.
    still need to make the bottom edge and a top corner piece, and the side sections where the rear of the fender mounts then ill start cutting out the old stuff

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    Starting to make the trunk channel, my cheap brake wasnt cooperating with the narrow 1.5" 18gauge strips, so ive just been hammering them to a 90*

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    Picked up a shrinker/ stretcher set and learned to use it making these yesterday morning

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    The tail panel opening is just rough cut and will get trimmed when i make the new bottom edge of the channel

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