Hot Rods Signal Pilot switch wiring. FV700

man do I have a headache from going thru books and schematics

 

what I overlooked was it said stat , which is just a switch , the signal- flare incorperates the brake circuit into the switch for use of 4 way flashers ( dual circuit bulbs in the back )

 

This was a weird one.....

 

I'll throw one more trick out there....

If you want, you can convert the brake pilot light into a turn indicator light (you'll lose the monitor function). Disconnect the red striped wire from the brake pilot light base, then take it to fused 12v power (instead of the yellow). Connect the yellow wire to the 'extra' terminal on the flasher, then connect the blue wire to ground.

 

I misspoke.... The brake light monitor works like this....

Pilot light on means the brakes aren't applied and at least one brake lamp is good.
Pilot light goes out when the brakes are applied means the circuit is working.
Pilot light doesn't go out when brakes are applied means the brake light switch has failed or you lost brake light power.
Pilot light goes out and stays off whether the brakes are applied or not means all brake lamps or the wiring to them has failed, the pilot lamp has failed, or you lost input power.

 

Damn I was thinking this might be the case. Looks like its time for relays. Anyone got a schematic for this?

 

I remember someone posting a great diagram using relays and I copied it somewhere but cant find it. So I googled it and it lead me to here but the images are dead now. Ugh!!! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/signal-stat-700-wiring-adapting-into-brake-lights.442681/

 

One I had saved, this would have to be duplicated for the front (minus the brake wire, can sub front park). Haven't studied it long enough to determine what effect it will have on your indicator lights.

 

You can use relays, but with a couple of caveats....

With a 'standard' 5 pin Bosch SPDT relay, break the wire going to the brake light and connect one side to the '30' (common) terminal, the other side to the '87A' (normally closed) terminal. Don't use the '87' (normally open) one. Connect the turn signal wire to the 85 or 86 terminal, then ground the other one. If the relay has a diode internally, if these two are 'backwards' it won't work. You'll need to use a low-load 'electronic' flasher for the turns to flash as the relay coil doesn't present enough load to flash a standard flasher; the flasher has to be able to flash one lamp. You'll also need to remove the two turn signal pilot lamps to prevent voltage from going to the relay coil on the turn side not in use. At best if the lamps are left in place they will glow dimly when the turn is on, at worst they will supply a low voltage to the relay coil that may damage it.

Riverview's diagram will also work (and has the advantage of using a 'standard' flasher) but will require more wires. You'll still need to remove the pilot lamps.

 

OK so doing a little creative thinking I did some googling again and saw this article. It seems that if I actually run power to my brake switch from the fuse panel and into this gizmo and then hook up the switch as per what you were saying with front Green and Red to front and then the brake light to the gizmo and the grey and black to this and out to the tail lights Id be good to go. They are only $9!!! http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/turn-signals.html

 

http://www.delcity.net/store/Trailer-:-Tail-Light-Converters/p_9036

 

thats what you need . we call them Ford boxes . as you have to use them on some fords to get the trailers to light .

 

Man it seems so simple and cheap. I see that others sell them for $69-$99 . I think Ill buy 2

 

We tried similar trailer converters when putting American truck bodies on Isuzu chassis when they first showed up; but they didn't seem to hold up to everyday use, ended up using 5 pin relay set-ups, until the body manufacturers re-designed the light set-up.

 

Here is a 5 pin relay diagram with both the front and rear lights. Probably have to remove some of the wiring from your switch terminals to do something like this. I would probably just replace the signal pilot stuff with some LEDs behind the stock lenses wired to the left and right fronts (won't be front and rear as switch is labeled). Would need to figure out the brake pilot; but should be workable too.

 

I suspect that the electronics in those convertors won't play well with the pilot lights; you'll probably have to pull the lamps.

 

Here are a couple of diagrams I found.

 

Next

 

Neither of those diagrams will work with his switch.

 

The pilot light portion and the more than 5 wires gave me hope. Instead of deleting, maybe they will help someone else.

 

I had a turn signal unit and I couldn't identify the wires (other than one that the flasher was hooked to) and was somewhat flummoxed. I did find the following link and was able to figure out which wire was which. http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/turn_signal.htm Good luck!!

 

Rabid Whippet did you get it to work. I bought a Stat 700 today it has 5 wires yellow,green,red,black and light grey.
Someone mentioned a white wire where I have a grey I was wondering if the color might have changed over the years or it was replaced with a light grey wire somewhere along the way.
Anyhow I'm glad to have it and hopefully it works.

 

I never did get it working. I gave up and used a vintage 900 Stant. Not really what I wanted but does the trick.

 

Not what I wanted to hear I'll guess I'll have to give it a go and see if I can get my buddy to figure it out. Cheers

 

I know this is an old thread but wanted to post this in case someone else searches for this signal switch wiring diagram for the FV700. The drawing has one thing that is incorrect; the yellow fused wire goes into the switch unit instead of to the flasher.