Hot Rods Signal Pilot switch wiring. FV700

I bought this NOS switch and it has 8 wires. But unfortunately the directions are no longer with this switch. I looked up this switch and cant find anything on it. Instead of the plain 4 wire, this actually has a light on it for the brakes also . Unfortunately when you have 8 wires , there is a myriad of combinations to try. Does anyone have any directions for this switch. I have spent 2 solid hours trying all combos and am so lost its not funny. Ugh!! Here are the pictures of the switch and the wires. Please help!! This is for my 1936 Ford that has the EZ wiring kit installed. I had it all working with a cheap over seas knock off POS that had left me with no brake lights at one time, then another time the signal would stay on even when the lever was moved back to the center so I drove miles and miles with the blinker on, then I lost one brake light. Each time I would take the switch apart and fix it all up and very shortly it would screw up again. The last time was the drivers front turn signal stopped working. I spent time tracking it right back to this damned cheap switch. So I figured that this one is pretty cool and period correct and has the wires to hook it up to brakes and turn signals not like the normal signal 700s. I sure could use some expert help!! Thanks in advance I hoping some one is familiar with this switch. All I come up with is the 4 wire that has no stop lights on them. This definitely is not the same as those as I have two of the others.

 

I think the 5 wire is only for blinkers. You would have to use separate bulbs or separate brake housings for the blinkers and the brakes. Yellow wire on this has the fuse and either is ground or hot I would think. See the wires in my pictures. Thanks anyway. I think this is a very rare turn signal as I cannot come up with any FV 700 on the internet. Ugh!!

 

Have you seen this diagram? From looking at it my best guess would be that the brake input wire is the light blue. If correct you should have continuity between the light blue, gray and black with the switch in "neutral".

 

It is usually pretty easy to determine the wiring with an meter or a powered test light. From the description of the pilot lights; it sounds like they use the opposite signal side for a ground, this would probably throw off normal testing, so I would remove all the pilot bulbs while determining the wire functions. First step, with the switch in the center position you will normally
find three wires with continuity (left & right rear along with brake light input). Then switch to right side and you will find three wires with continuity (the flasher input along with right front & rear) and two wires with continuity( the brake light input and left rear) Then switch to left side, again three wires with continuity (the flasher input along with the left front & rear) and two wires with continuity ( brake light input and right rear). Then compare the three wires with continuity in neutral with where they again had continuity in the left & right positions will establish the brake light input and left & right rear. The flasher input is already known by the fuse. The last two are left & right front, function determined by which switch position gave them continuity. You will now have the all the wire functions. Install some 12 volt pilot bulbs. I would probably bench check the switch with four lights; be sure to ground everything including the switch. Sounds complicated; but actually pretty easy.

 

I will follow your guidance Rich. I think where I was thrown off was testing with the bulbs in. Everything was acting funky. I did take it apart and it looked like the yellow wire contacts all the bulb housings but then the center of the bulb is actually the contact for the wires? 24riverview. The diagram is for the 700 without brake lights. That switch is a 4 wire and they wired them with different colors. Thanks anyway. Rich it sounds really simple the way you wrote it. When I get back from work I will try it out. My old switch was hooked up so I will put power to the wires to determine which wire is what light first.
I my be back asking for your guidance some more with a few questions. So there is no doubt that this switch is for brake and turn signals in your opinion? Some people have said that the 700 is only for 4 lights and no brakes. But these are only for the 4 and 5 wire as far as I can figure. I have never seen the FV700. But seeing as it has 8 wires and says stop lights and signals, I think this is the switch for both.

 

I have this diagram that may help. Not for that exact switch though. D

 

The picture is too small to read on my end. But if the yellow wire is power then it may be correct. Like I said, I cant blow it up and it doesn't allow it to be printed. That looks like the old Chinese knock off copy I had so much problem with.

 

Actually I captured the picture and it looks like this is for just a separate turn signal switch only. So brakes operate on a totally different circuit not connected to the switch.

 

If you are replying to my post, the yellow wire goes to the brake light switch on my signal setup. This one is a Autolamp 9000 and it wires the same as an old Allstate that I have also. If you need me to send it to your reg. email, let me know. D

 

Dennis, the yellow wire on my switch if you look at the picture shows as fused to the ignition is what I am guessing. I just ant believe that this is the only switch like this to exist!! LOL!! No google searches come up with anything!! I always end up with oddball stuff including my car in the picture. 1929 Willys Whippet? Try finding parts for this or my old guitar amp from the late 60s early 70s that I have had since 1976. I do a google search on the model number and make and 0 search results. Ugh!!! Anyway, thanks again for your help.[/QUOTE]

 

You've got a weird one.... This isn't a 'conventional' turn switch and there's several clues for that. One, input power to the flasher comes out of the switch; on a conventional switch, one of the flasher wires would be incoming signal power, but you have a separate wire. Two, those 'pilot' lights. These aren't really indicating lights, but rather show that you have a bulb/circuit failure (brakes, front/rear lights rather than left/right?), only lighting when the bulb is off or bad if I'm reading the faceplate right.

A 'typical' turn switch should have these wires; brake light incoming power, turn signal incoming power (from the flasher; the flasher should have it's own power feed not connected to the switch), and one wire each to the four lights at each corner of the car. It may have one or two more for dash indicators. You've got one input power, to/from wires for the flasher (up to three wires now), four 'colored' wires that may go the turn lights, and that 'leftover' black wire. Logic says this should be input power for the brake lights, but I suspect it's a ground wire and has to do with those 'pilot' lights. Best bet would be to disassemble the switch and physically trace each wire/connection to verify where it goes.

 

Hey Steve, only the 3 wire flashers have a separate power wire. On a crappy note while googling Signal Stat switches, I found Truck Lite Corporation took over Signal Stat in 2003. So I figured maybe they might have information on this stat. I talked to a tech who looked up the number and did about 15 minutes of searching and zippo!! Nothing, Nadda, zilch. I also think that the lights will blink when the signal is on or the brake lights applied but will be continuous if you have burned out signals or brake lights.

 

Didn't see the fused power wire wasn't run thru the flasher, makes it all the more interesting, especially with your comment that the yellow wire touched
all the bulb housings. I'll have to look for sure; but I think the Signal Stat switch I have is the "normal" one. If it does turn out to function like a 4 wire switch, you can always wire it up with relays to make it function as a regular
switch. Maybe a picture of the inside may hold some clues.

 

try this person
Kimberly D. Maione
Technical Support
Truck-Lite Co, Inc.
Ph. (888-562-5012)

she can help you with the diagrams and wiring questions as this is the manufactuer .

 

Go here: http://cj3b.info/Tech/SignalWiring.html

 

Hey Stimpy, I talked to Kimberly and she had no clue to what I had. She spent like 15 minutes with her. I did ask if she wanted to buy it from me for their incredibly rare turn signals display LOL!!
I will take the back off again but it may be hard to distinguish what's what. There's a lot of wires in that small area so I had to keep looking under the wires to see where each went.

 

BJR, the wiring diagrams don't seem to be the same as mine. But it does sho detail to trace out your switch wiring . I just don't know if it will work with the pilot lights. Now heres a question. The EZ wiring fuse block actually has the flasher built in and worked fine with the old switch. Should I just take the one on this oneand remove it then run a bridge between the two terminals so it will operate on the existing wiring and flasher on the fuse panel. Its a fricking tough one!!!! I'll take it apart tonight again and see if I can get some better pic's of the inside. I don't want to take the actual contactor apart by bending the 3 tabs off the bakelite as I have seen them break and the whole guts explode like a clown in a jack in the box wind up toy.

 

wow you stumped the manufactuer . I am suprised she couldn't help as she helped me when I had a unit that was labeled as one type and we found out it was a military 24 V unit . ( different specs) one thing I do know on some of them aftermarket signal stalks check the flasher can to make sure its working as a bad one can cause problems ( I test it in a car that is regular )

 

Stimpy, this is just my luck!!! She had no clue but she did try!. She has been there for 18 years.

 

When I took this one apart the first time its totally new looking like a time capsule. No dust, no corrosion, just like new back in 19??

 

Also I know its not as old as my other 700s as they have cloth wiring. So Im guessing mid to late 50s. as the fuse is also like the 1956-7-8 corvette size fuses on my fuse block for my other car.

 

Just a guess from memory--8 wires would go to --4 -lf,rf,rr,lr signal lamps--- 5-brake lamp switch----- 6 -power (power obtained from signal flasher)---- 7-fused power------8-signal indicator on dash or in a lamp in the switch. If you use a three prong flasher one leg is fused power ,one signals(to power signal switch), one indicator

 

I am used to the 4 wire signals and there standardized colors , but I happen to look in my old pontiac electric schematics and they label brakeswitch as being grey

 

Not true. The three wire flashers have that third terminal for a indicator light usually, but any typical automotive flasher will have a power wire in and a load wire out. Now, that yellow wire that goes to each light makes sense given how the lights are supposed to work. Those are pilot lights, showing that the lamps are good when the lights aren't on. They get their 'ground' through the brake/turn lamps; in other words, these are in series with the exterior lamps and due to their low wattage/high resistance, when the pilot is on, so is the other lamps but voltage/current is too low to cause them to visibly light. When you apply full power to the outside light, the 'difference of potential' disappears and the pilot light goes out. If you're only checking for continuity, these will cause pretty much everything to read to everything else. Remove the lamps, then go back and perform the check in post 5. Also disconnect the flasher; we've been assuming that's a 'factory' connection but it may not be one. What you may have is one input power for the pilots light only, the two wires connected to the flasher may be brake light power and turn power.

 

OK so here is what I found. Hows this for research!! So Im guessing in this circle of 6 contacts, there is a triangulated copper disc with 3 fingers. When you have the switch in the center location of the left/right, none are connected between the 6 pins and when you turn it to the left signal 2,4,6 have ohms from the center pin and the right turn is 1,3,5 from the center pin. which would be unknown 1 Black and red and Left turn would be grey Green and unknown. I hope someone understands my drawing. all the colors are the same as the wires soooo I think it should help you guys out to help me. I am trying but I am totally getting confused. I wired up 2 cars (1 from scratch) everything worked and then I come up to this damned switch and I am brain dead!!! UGH!!

I split the drawing from front to back as a mirror image. So the yellow with fuse feeds the flasher with the red striped wire then goes through the flasher using the grey striped wire to the center of the switch pot. I'm lost from there?









Heres what I was saying about the actual housing for the lights looking like its the positive which doesn't matter as lights don't care how they feed power. Another thing that I found out is the fuse that is in it is actually a 3 prong flasher just using the outside pins. Do you think there should be a feed wire to the center pin on the flasher and maybe it was lost in the years. ? Was the center pin on the flasher the power to feed it?

 

OK blue goes to the brake switch and the yellow goes to a switched powersource , and the other colors are green=Lf , red=Rf , grey =LR , black=RR

 

But if blue goes to brake switch wouldn't the brake lights stay on as the blue wouldn't be interrupted 12 volt? And both rear lights would be running through the little filament of the bulb. That I would thing would burn out that small filament?

 

Stimpy has the connections right, but this switch is actually a 'turn only' switch and the brake light connection is only to monitor the brake light; no switching involved. Tap the blue wire into the brake light circuit after the brake light switch and it'll work as designed. You'll also need separate rear turns, these can't be connected to the brake lights. So the way this works is like this; the brake pilot lamp will be lit if the brakes aren't applied, it will go off when the brake light comes on. If the light doesn't go off when the brakes are applied, then there's a failure in the brake light circuit. Note that if you have two brake lights, both would have to fail for the pilot to indicate it. The turn pilot lights would only light up in the event of a failure of a lamp or connection when the signal is on. These should remain off if everything is working. The 'extra' terminal on the flasher is for a flashing turn indicator when either side is on. Run from that terminal to one side of the indicator lamp, ground the other side.

This looks like it was designed for a late-40s Mopar as some of those had a single brake light in the middle of the trunk. Hook up this switch and it will tell you at a glance if you have any bad lamps and which one it is.

 

thank you , I was typing this up as you replied