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Shop/garage plans

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by keith089, May 1, 2007.

  1. keith089
    Joined: Sep 13, 2005
    Posts: 377


    Anybody have any plans for a garage? I am looking to build a 20 x 30 or 40. Just looking for ideas before I make mistakes. If you have horror stories post them up. I love to learn.
  2. Q
    Joined: Aug 13, 2005
    Posts: 603


    The Jalopy Journal has a sister site called the Garage Journal here:

    Once you are there, you can go to The Board (forum) and get all kinds of information and ideas!

    Hope this helps!

    (BTW - I like your avatar. If there is beer in Hell, maybe it will even be cold!)
  3. keith089
    Joined: Sep 13, 2005
    Posts: 377


  4. 51 MERC-CT
    Joined: Apr 5, 2005
    Posts: 1,592

    51 MERC-CT

    Go as big as space will allow. Started out with a 24'x24', ended up with a 24'x48', still seems too small.:) :D
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  5. pan-dragger
    Joined: Sep 13, 2006
    Posts: 3,188


    it doesn't take long to fill em up. i've got 24x36 fits 3 easily with room to work, and living in the heart of the city, doesn't piss the neighbors to bad.
  6. I am right in the middle of building my 24x30. Seems simple so far...the worst part was after the demo on my old garage, getting rid of the concrete :D With just me and my dad, and is very tired 8N tractor made for a whole weekend of work :(

    But the outcome will be worth it!!!!
  7. flathead okie
    Joined: May 22, 2005
    Posts: 1,480

    flathead okie

    I've got a 30x30, tought it would be big enough as I use to have a 24x18.......It isn't big enough.
  8. JSBriggs
    Joined: Nov 9, 2006
    Posts: 122

    from Auburn, CA

    If you want a lift plan for 12' 6" walls as most lifts are 12'. It can be done with 12' of framed walls on top of 6" foundation stem walls.

    I built this last year. Its 35' x 40', deeper than it is wide.


    Attached Files:

  9. Give me a couple of months and I'll probably have more info, The builder starts on mine this month, claims 6 weeks start to finish. It's 30' x 40' conventional construction. My current medical state keeps me from doing it myself. I bought a plans book at home depot and modified a layout that was close.
  10. john56h
    Joined: Jan 28, 2007
    Posts: 1,767


  11. Glen
    Joined: Mar 21, 2001
    Posts: 1,789


    my build is on the garage journal its 25x30.

    I think my userid is AZGlen on that site though
  12. Bert
    Joined: Feb 22, 2005
    Posts: 404


    go the 12ft walls as stated.......I now have a lift but have to raise my roof to match, big job but still easier than a whole new garage.....over here, they sometimes cheat and build the garage first and then pour the concrete slab inside the garage using the first 6inches of wall as a form for the slab.........hence you loose height inside...having bigger walls also means more storage/shelving......just like a compressor, you can never go too big with a garage..............Bert
  13. Big Dad
    Joined: Dec 20, 2005
    Posts: 4,544

    Big Dad

    I built 30 x 30 with 10 foot side walls .. whoops

    To use a 4 post lift ...really need 11 foot walls

    It will work but, much better to have 11'

    And , sure should of done 30 x 40 ..I have 3 cars, room to work but
    it is crowded
  14. junior 1957
    Joined: Dec 10, 2006
    Posts: 207

    junior 1957

    i know this is gonna sound silly, but stay as close to a square footprint as possible. a long narrow building gives up square footage.

    50x50=2500 sq ft

    40x60=2400 sq ft

    30x60=1800 sq ft:eek:
  15. borntoolate
    Joined: Feb 18, 2006
    Posts: 320


    I love my steel building. (40'x50'x12') Ten years ago, it cost me about $16,000 for the building and the concrete slab plus a couple of 10'x8' overhead doors. It came with 3" fiberglass insulation. It has a 14" main "backbone" beam that'll easily hoist an engine. It also came with sealed engineering drawings stating that it was designed for an 80 mph wind load. Only problem with having a bigger shop is you fill it up with more crap (not to mention other people's crap). The only challenging part of the construction was placing the steel roof beam. I had a guy hoist it up with a backhoe bucket. It just barely made it. If you're in a subdivision, you probably can't use a building that doesn't match or compiment the materials in your house. For the value and usability, I think a steel building beats the snot out of a traditionally framed shop, but either way beats using the driveway. Another cool thing is that all winter here in middle Tennessee, it never gets below about 40 degrees in there with no heat. I think just the radiant heat from the ground maintains that, along with the insulation. I have one of those cheap keresene jet engines for instant heat when I get time to work out there.
  16. cruisinkruty
    Joined: Jan 22, 2006
    Posts: 314


    I got 80 grand into my garage addition,we added to the roofline of the house. It is 36X60 with a loft....and it is still too damn small!:eek:
  17. bobx
    Joined: Apr 17, 2004
    Posts: 1,061

    from Indiana

    consider scissor trusses. they give alot more height to the building. my garage is 28x34. 9 ft walls. but with the scissor trusses the peak of the ceiling is about 12 1/2 tall.

    and make sure to put a moisture barrier down before you pour the concrete - if you ever plan on painting or sealing the floor.
  18. keith089
    Joined: Sep 13, 2005
    Posts: 377


    Thanks to all.
  19. I plan to build or buy one near my office (tired of the 120 miles per day commute) once I finish the roadster. I'll go with 16'(20'?)walls so I can have an apartment upstairs. Anybody know what concrete costs in Houston?
  20. Glen
    Joined: Mar 21, 2001
    Posts: 1,789


    I did the scissor truss also, it was the smartest thing I did.

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